Which sills?

PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Thu Nov 22, 2018 1:26 pm

I think shipping will be around 150.00, my usual guess(:
Good luck
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PostPost by: TomMull » Thu Nov 22, 2018 3:27 pm

Check out the link you posted for me. Shipping is estimated in the details at $46.20 to the US. If that's correct, it's a no brainer. (I was quoted twice that from another British supplier fora set of wiper arms and blades)
Someone also posted in a previous but related topic a list of additional parts, seat belt mounts etc. to order at the same time as the sills. Any thoughts? I'll post the link if I can find it.
Tom
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Fri Nov 23, 2018 12:08 am

While you are under the car check the top seat belt mounting point reinforcing plates in the wheel arch, mine looked fine till I tapped them with a hammer and they just crumbled. See picture of original and new plate.
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PostPost by: Chris » Fri Nov 23, 2018 8:36 am

I made my own sill members, they are not difficult to make if you can weld. You could probably have them made in your locality cheaper than buying and shipping. I can supply a manufacturing drawing
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PostPost by: alanr » Fri Nov 23, 2018 9:00 am

I have a question about the body jacking point holes in the sill.
Should there be a rubber grommet/blank or something that fits in the fibreglass on the sill to cover both the metal jacking point and the fibreglass surrounding hole?
Mine has nothing and I just wondered how to stop rainwater/muck going in?
Alan
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PostPost by: wotsisname » Fri Nov 23, 2018 9:59 am

I'm not aware there was ever a seal/grommet to seal the jacking points. I would recommend a good dose of waxoyl or similar before the wheel arch closing plates are attached. When fitting my spyder sills I was pretty generous with silicone sealant on any fittings .. hoping to avoid that damp musty smell
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Fri Nov 23, 2018 12:30 pm

When I had the body resprayed the jack holes were filled in. I have the dimensions as to where the holes should be so they could be opened up if necessary but I have no intention of ever using them to jack from. My sill members are stainless steel and I have new alloy closing plates sealed in place.
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PostPost by: alanr » Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:15 pm

Bigbaldybloke wrote:When I had the body resprayed the jack holes were filled in. I have the dimensions as to where the holes should be so they could be opened up if necessary but I have no intention of ever using them to jack from. My sill members are stainless steel and I have new alloy closing plates sealed in place.


Interesting...
So when you are at the side of the road with a flat tyre what do you do?
Alan
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Fri Nov 23, 2018 2:30 pm

Call the AA/RAC/Greenflag, saves me getting my dainty hands dirty ;-)
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PostPost by: alanr » Fri Nov 23, 2018 5:06 pm

Bigbaldybloke wrote:Call the AA/RAC/Greenflag, saves me getting my dainty hands dirty ;-)


I wouldn't want those monkeys attempting to jack up my car. :wink:
Alan
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PostPost by: Mick6186 » Fri Nov 23, 2018 5:07 pm

I recall reading in the past that the Rover P6 jacking point bungs fit the holes in the +2 sill.
These bungs are available new on ebay,
Mick
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PostPost by: alanr » Fri Nov 23, 2018 5:10 pm

Mick6186 wrote:I recall reading in the past that the Rover P6 jacking point bungs fit the holes in the +2 sill.
These bungs are available new on ebay,
Mick


Great, Thanks for that info. :D

Alan
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PostPost by: Bud English » Fri Nov 23, 2018 10:18 pm

I wouldn't cover those holes. There's really no other good way for that area to drain condensation or any water ingress. That area seems to attract dust and moisture no mater how well you try to seal the blanking plates.
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