Stripping the Veneer from the Dash.

[mikealdren]

John,
interesting comment on sealing the veneer. Mine had been stripped so it wasn't 'new' but I didn't seal it, I built up many layers of lacquer the two pack recommended on this site (can't remember which it was but I can check)

Mike

[c42]

Hi Mike
I used a 2 pack product from Trimite Paints which I would describe as a sanding sealer from the model making days of my youth, flatting off between coats and the last coat was a gloss lacquer; I did consider a semi gloss or matt finish but went for gloss in the end

Regards
John

[jono]

This is what I used and the results were superb - I figured if it was good enough for Brian May to use on his first home made guitar (still in use) it would be good enough for an Elan dash. And that 'anecdote' is in fact true!

Roller in on using as small foam roller and it flows out nice and thick. Flat back between coats with a woodblock and fine W&D and finish with the special burnishing creme - comes up beautifully and does not look too 'modern'

http://www.axminster.co.uk/rustins-clea ... prod23018/

Jon

[mikealdren]

Yes, Rustins is what I used too. I brushed it on, rubbed down and burnished between lots of coats and I'm very pleased with the high gloss results. It has to be gloss really doesn't it?

My next job is to put on the Peter Mallinson transfers for the text and add a final coat but I want to experiment first to avoid damaging the transfers. Has anyone put Rustins over transfers?

Mike

[jono]

Mike,

It will not work I'm afraid (been there and done that) - the Rustins dissolves the Mallinson transfers.

I had new vinyl letters lazer cut from a template I made from Word - worked really well. These are stuck on top rather than under the Rustins but they hold up well.

Jon

[mikealdren]

Thanks, that's what I was worried about. Who made up your transfers? Were they expensive?

A long time ago, I used letraset (are they still around) and that worked quite well.

thanks
Mike

[jono]

Mike,

A friend runs a giftware business and made them for me gratis.

I attach the file - if you take it to a similar firm or sign company they should make you some at fairly modest cost.

Jon

[mikealdren]

Many thanks, I'll try the Mallinson set first of course but it's useful to have a backup plan. I'm sure others will find this useful.

Mike

[TeeJay]

Many thanks John, Jon and Mike for all your comments and download.

I do have a router and cutters and all the other items.
Comments on the veneer, adhesive, how to apply, cut, finish and the Dash letters, very very useful.
It all helps to move forward with increased confidence, with the end results to match.

All the photos of the completed Dashboards, has re inspired me.

Away from home for several days, but eager to get back onto the task.

[jono]

Trevor,

Also worth mentioning grain filling prior to applying your clear finish. I used Rustins grain filler cut with a little Rustins walnut and mahogany stain mixed together. When dry I finished the entire bare veneer with the same mix of stains - this achieved the slightly red/brown hew of the original dash.

I did not veneer mine as I was able to repair and re lay the existing veneer where lifting but the usual trick is to coat the veneer and ply with PVA, let it go almost dry and then iron it on with a hot iron (don't let the missus see you doing it or the 'I can't iron' game will be up ).

The switch recesses, I spray finished from behind with dark chocolate coloured spary paint to hide the edges of the ply and then lacquered these also - it looks just right. I treated the edges of the glove box lid in the same way.

If you get letters made up in vinyl they come with a release paper so that you can line them all up before sticking them down and peeling off the release paper. Steady hand and eye required but very satisfying

Cheers

Jon

[TeeJay]

Jon thank you, the details are very much appreciated.

Re the letters, I know a local Sign Co. which did my boat name. These have withstood several years of being power washed, so they stuck on well. Hopefully they are still in business. Will check when I return home.

Cheers.

[TeeJay]

Hi Mike.
I recall meeting you at Donington, the year before the move to Malvern.

Please I need another fix, any photo of your Dash.

Thanks.

[mikealdren]

Hi Trevor,
no problem, here are my +2S dash and +2S 130 pre-restoration? The 130 is original, the +2S isn't. Hope this helps. You can see how the varnish was flaking on the 130 from damp.

I've also got close ups of the wiring on the back for the 130 if you need it.

good luck
Mike

[TeeJay]

Hi Mike,
Thanks very much for the photos, its great to see more examples.
Looking forward to seeing all the photos on my large screen monitor when I return home.

My dash was also in a very poor condition, significantly worse than your photo, I will post a before and after when complete.

I appreciate your offer re the wiring, hopefully I will be OK as I also took many photo's and marked everything up. But I have to transfer all the markings to the 3 new harnesses prior to installation. To help me I have checked the new harnesses to the correct wiring diagram and they fortunately do match.

Thanks again.

[TeeJay]

The veneer has arrived.

Ordered from Vale Veneers, Launceston, Cornwall. (thanks c42/John).
http://woodveneeruk.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=bwal25x15

At a total cost of ?69.24 for 2 leafs, which will allow me to mirror (book match) down the centre of the dash.
All the other suppliers for the correct sized leaf/s were at least ?10 more at the date purchased.

Tip. Don?t order late Thursday so it gets stuck in the Royal mail over the weekend, item received today, Tuesday, slightly damp and a little crinkled. Still they have to be laid out to flatten etc.
See:-http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/acclimation.html
The above Web Site has many other user tips. (thanks Gary/piss-ant)

In my opening comments (page 1) I did not mention that part of the consideration for a new veneer, apart from it being lifted and faded, was that the glove box lid had a cut out for the old, original tape player. I made a replacement from marine ply. See photos.

I well remember when I first had the +2, driving to Tenby with Elton John?s; Crocodile Rock; blasting out. Great then still great today.

I will buy Rustins: - Plastic coating, grain filler and burnishing cream, thanks all for your suggestions.

But as it?s a new veneer will I need to buy some Rustins dyes, mix and apply, so it?s comparable in colour with the old Dash lid. (John, Mike, Jon)?

Also I shall use the PVA Iron on method, to attach the veneer, as suggested by Jon and
http://www.oakwoodveneer.com/tips/ironon.html

Am I correct in cutting the shape out for the dash lid and then apply the veneer separately, or is the better method to position the lid in the dash, then attach the veneer and when fully dry cut it out?

Thanks for any comments.