window lift mech

[ericbushby]

OK, you got me curious, so I have measured the window motor current on my S3
The window travelled quite slowly taking 9 seconds from down to up.
Running current although constantly varying was in the region of 2.5 Amps.
Current when stalled was 5 Amps
Certainly in my case I cannot see that leaving it on too long would cause damage to the motor.
An extra 30 watts is not going to cause much temperature rise.
Eric in Burnley
S3SE DHC

[h20hamelan]

anyone ever found the strength of the window mount in the doors to be sufficient.
after measuring the thickness, its not enough.

I had added thicker (18g) positive and negative, through a relay & fuse four years ago. Was so happy, when they operated as normal power windows do. I have alway been a bit careful, to slow towards the top, and bottom.
this happened just the other day! Not at the top, merely ascending.
Needles to say, I will be reinforcing the opposite side, and fixing this pronto...

[h20hamelan]

Only the finest engineering simplification and added lightness practice. The motor stalls upon the window reaching its upper or lower limit. Almost all electric windows work this way, no matter the manufacturer.

Which is true for flexible steel door frames, seems these glass fibre frames which offer zero give/flex requires reinforcement, or...?

I recall some vehicles with touch switches, that shut the power off at the end of travel. Probably not a huge deal to add. But. Here we go again, adding weight.
Dont think the downward force is enough to crack the glass fibre door frame. Thou up certainly is. I would add a strip of mat and cloth another mat on-top of the concave section beside the opening, so as to not affect the door card. Even covering the entire area, would not affect the door card that much, as long as one kept it thin.