S3 door pull screws
20 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Brian,
I guess I didn't go back to your 1st photo, only the one with the panel still on. So you already have the 1st step complete. The window motors are mounted to a flat piece of sheet steel. Do not try to separate them, but rather, there are 3 of 1/4-28 UNF large button headed screws which hold the steel plate to the door frame. Removing these three screws will remove the motor. From memory, there is a screw at the back top, one at the back bottom and one at the top front of the motor. Then the motor just pulls out, the drive pins will just slip out of the drive spool. If you have the window up, then you should have access to the inside of the door and the nuts on the back of the pull handle.
Every time I have the window motors out, I take the opportunity to perform maintenance on them. The motors originally had two aluminum screws holding them together, running parallel to the axis of the motor. When I bought my 1st Elan over 35 years ago, both of my motors had a broken screw. I replaced them with steel ones. They too are 10-32 size and IIRC, are about 3-1/2 to 4 in long. Any time I have the motors apart, I always clean the commutator with fine Scotch-brite abrasive pad, or an emery cloth. Clean just enough to remove the oxidation. Then use a business card to clean the gaps between the commutator segments. Clean off the abrasive swarf with compressed air or at least a clean cloth and a solvent such as lacquer thinner.
With the actual door pull handle screws in my hand, they are flat head rather than domed. Must be to allow the handle to not interfere when the handle is hanging. The 10-32 screw is 1/2" long overall, since flat head screws are measured over the whole length including the head. The nut is a nylok self-locking and the washer is a larger than standard (in the US called a fender washer) and is 1 inch in diameter.
Roger
I guess I didn't go back to your 1st photo, only the one with the panel still on. So you already have the 1st step complete. The window motors are mounted to a flat piece of sheet steel. Do not try to separate them, but rather, there are 3 of 1/4-28 UNF large button headed screws which hold the steel plate to the door frame. Removing these three screws will remove the motor. From memory, there is a screw at the back top, one at the back bottom and one at the top front of the motor. Then the motor just pulls out, the drive pins will just slip out of the drive spool. If you have the window up, then you should have access to the inside of the door and the nuts on the back of the pull handle.
Every time I have the window motors out, I take the opportunity to perform maintenance on them. The motors originally had two aluminum screws holding them together, running parallel to the axis of the motor. When I bought my 1st Elan over 35 years ago, both of my motors had a broken screw. I replaced them with steel ones. They too are 10-32 size and IIRC, are about 3-1/2 to 4 in long. Any time I have the motors apart, I always clean the commutator with fine Scotch-brite abrasive pad, or an emery cloth. Clean just enough to remove the oxidation. Then use a business card to clean the gaps between the commutator segments. Clean off the abrasive swarf with compressed air or at least a clean cloth and a solvent such as lacquer thinner.
With the actual door pull handle screws in my hand, they are flat head rather than domed. Must be to allow the handle to not interfere when the handle is hanging. The 10-32 screw is 1/2" long overall, since flat head screws are measured over the whole length including the head. The nut is a nylok self-locking and the washer is a larger than standard (in the US called a fender washer) and is 1 inch in diameter.
Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 957
- Joined: 23 Nov 2008
This is the patented piss-ant "dont drop the nut" method for doing the inner door handle install, I also have found it priceless when installing the top window frame screw with the nut that you can't see or feel. plastic is from a bread bag that was going to be recycled.
It cut my cursing language in thirds...
The final third I saved for knocking the large flat washer off of the protruding screw untold times!!!
Here is the screw for the door frame that I was referring to.
It cut my cursing language in thirds...
The final third I saved for knocking the large flat washer off of the protruding screw untold times!!!
Here is the screw for the door frame that I was referring to.
-
garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2634
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Elan45 wrote:The window motors are mounted to a flat piece of sheet steel. Do not try to separate them, but rather, there are 3 of 1/4-28 UNF large button headed screws which hold the steel plate to the door frame. Removing these three screws will remove the motor. From memory, there is a screw at the back top, one at the back bottom and one at the top front of the motor. Then the motor just pulls out, the drive pins will just slip out of the drive spool. If you have the window up, then you should have access to the inside of the door and the nuts on the back of the pull handle.
Well Brian probably has this job complete by now so this is all academic but I certainly can't access the inside of the door through the window motor hole on my door - there is barely enough room to get my finger between the frame and the inner skin of the door. The window frame would have to be removed as well. Granted my car is an S4 and we are talking about an S3 here but I don't think there is a big difference in that part of the door. Luckily my doors both have a large access hole near the lock which makes it relatively easy to get to the pull handle hardware, I think I might consider cutting such a hole if I were in Brian's position.
Regards,
(The other) Roger
Roger
S4 DHC
S4 DHC
- oldelanman
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1926
- Joined: 02 Jan 2008
Thanks Roger (Elan45) Roger (oldelanman) and PA,
I have not done the job yet, it is not the highest on my list of priorities as the dash & screen are out to sort the wiring and dash/crash pad fitment, the PO had basically slapped it together and despite the dash & pad being new were very badly fitted.... the wiring is also a mess so other things are taking priority, I originally thought changing the pull handle was a five minute job but Lotus life is never that simple!
I will probably have to rehang the doors anyway so I may remove them completely and service the window motors as suggested by Elan45.
I will also consider cutting access holes as per oldelanmans car as this also sounds like a reasonable option.
Will post progress at a later date.Thanks all.
I have not done the job yet, it is not the highest on my list of priorities as the dash & screen are out to sort the wiring and dash/crash pad fitment, the PO had basically slapped it together and despite the dash & pad being new were very badly fitted.... the wiring is also a mess so other things are taking priority, I originally thought changing the pull handle was a five minute job but Lotus life is never that simple!
I will probably have to rehang the doors anyway so I may remove them completely and service the window motors as suggested by Elan45.
I will also consider cutting access holes as per oldelanmans car as this also sounds like a reasonable option.
Will post progress at a later date.Thanks all.
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
-
types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3407
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Just been through this to replace the fabric on the door panel of my Sprint, as L10tus says "Sometimes, my Elan makes me cry.". My hands are well & truly bloodied!
Gary's (PissAant's) trick worked a treat to hold the nut in the spanner/wrench so it does not drop.
Gary's (PissAant's) trick worked a treat to hold the nut in the spanner/wrench so it does not drop.
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
-
pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3186
- Joined: 15 Sep 2010
20 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 21 guests