Peeling Walnut Veneer
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
I've got an original dash with walnut veneer. It's in good original condition and the finish is intact.
Unfortunately the veneer is lifting at the edges of the glove box door. It's flexible enough to push back without cracking but I'm not sure what adhesive to use to hold it down.
My original idea was to use waterproof wood glue. However I've been told that this may not be strong enough and superglue is preferable.
Has anyone done this and have experience to impart?
Thanks,
Gary.
Unfortunately the veneer is lifting at the edges of the glove box door. It's flexible enough to push back without cracking but I'm not sure what adhesive to use to hold it down.
My original idea was to use waterproof wood glue. However I've been told that this may not be strong enough and superglue is preferable.
Has anyone done this and have experience to impart?
Thanks,
Gary.
'72 +2 S130/5
-
garyk - New-tral
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 19 May 2004
Gary,
I would use contact cement. You know, the stuff that is used to glue down plastic laminate (Formica) on kitchen countertops. Apply the stuff on both surfaces and wait about 20-30 minutes for it to get what will appear to be dry. Then press the walnut back on. It will never come off.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
I would use contact cement. You know, the stuff that is used to glue down plastic laminate (Formica) on kitchen countertops. Apply the stuff on both surfaces and wait about 20-30 minutes for it to get what will appear to be dry. Then press the walnut back on. It will never come off.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 919
- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
Thanks Frank. Given that the veneer has only lifted a few mm, there is probably not enough room to get the contact adhesive in. My issue is that I won't be able to get much surface area for the bond.
On the plus side, at least it's just on the door. So I can take it off and leave it between two pieces of wood in a G-clamp overnight to set.
Gary.
On the plus side, at least it's just on the door. So I can take it off and leave it between two pieces of wood in a G-clamp overnight to set.
Gary.
'72 +2 S130/5
-
garyk - New-tral
- Posts: 11
- Joined: 19 May 2004
I'd go with the superglue idea - it seems to be the one glue that works best with a thin layer and you know that it dries clear - I'm not sure that waterproof wood glue or formica glue does.
Good luck, Andrew
Good luck, Andrew
- andrewdmoore
- Second Gear
- Posts: 63
- Joined: 23 Sep 2003
Hi Gary
I have the same problem, only over the entire surface with some patches lifting. I have been experimenting with the edges lifting on the glove box, the best success so far is 5 minute epoxy, inserted with a very thin knife or feeler4 gage and spread evenly, them gentle clamp. Seems to work and looks ok. Don;t apply too much.
Good luck.
Wilf.
I have the same problem, only over the entire surface with some patches lifting. I have been experimenting with the edges lifting on the glove box, the best success so far is 5 minute epoxy, inserted with a very thin knife or feeler4 gage and spread evenly, them gentle clamp. Seems to work and looks ok. Don;t apply too much.
Good luck.
Wilf.
- CABOCHON
- New-tral
- Posts: 2
- Joined: 11 Oct 2003
6 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 27 guests