Sill Replacement On +2
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• Page 1 of 1
Hi,
My next job is to replace the inner sills on my +2s130. Has anyone done this job and can offer any tips? I have an original workshop manual but it doesnt even mention them. Also where is the best place in the uk to buy the parts?
Thanks
Chris
My next job is to replace the inner sills on my +2s130. Has anyone done this job and can offer any tips? I have an original workshop manual but it doesnt even mention them. Also where is the best place in the uk to buy the parts?
Thanks
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
In the workshop manual under "body" Pretty vague though has to be said.
I did the replacement on my old plus 2 and was time consuming but easy enough, except.
1) Remember all the screws along the bottom holding the body over the inner seal are 2BA.
2) all the nuts and bolts are going to be rusted up.
3) It will pay you to order new seatbelt mounting plates whilst you are at it.
4) try not to rip the carpet when exposing the 2BA nuts and bolts, as you will have to glue the carpet back with Evo stik (and make sure that you do this in a well ventilated place, outside preferably).
5) Be brave when you pull the body open to get the new ones in, you will think that the body will not take it, but you will be surprised.
6) Be prepared to make up new wheel arch cover plates, if they are the original steel ones then they will have certainly rusted by now. I made new ones from Ally using the old ones as templates, and slapped loads of underseal over the top.
7) All the usual suspects supply the sills, CN Spyder etc. Perhaps best to go for the galvanised units, and slap loads of grease, paint or under seal on them to give them a bit more life when you replace them.
Regards
Jeff 72 +2
I did the replacement on my old plus 2 and was time consuming but easy enough, except.
1) Remember all the screws along the bottom holding the body over the inner seal are 2BA.
2) all the nuts and bolts are going to be rusted up.
3) It will pay you to order new seatbelt mounting plates whilst you are at it.
4) try not to rip the carpet when exposing the 2BA nuts and bolts, as you will have to glue the carpet back with Evo stik (and make sure that you do this in a well ventilated place, outside preferably).
5) Be brave when you pull the body open to get the new ones in, you will think that the body will not take it, but you will be surprised.
6) Be prepared to make up new wheel arch cover plates, if they are the original steel ones then they will have certainly rusted by now. I made new ones from Ally using the old ones as templates, and slapped loads of underseal over the top.
7) All the usual suspects supply the sills, CN Spyder etc. Perhaps best to go for the galvanised units, and slap loads of grease, paint or under seal on them to give them a bit more life when you replace them.
Regards
Jeff 72 +2
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jeff jackson - Third Gear
- Posts: 365
- Joined: 31 May 2004
I bought mine from SJ Sportscars in Devon and they are stainless steel. Cost about ?200 pair I recall. See workshop manual section B page 7 >. Worst part
is the closing plates under either wheel arch, as mine were pop riveted. Get the shovel ready to collect the rust & dust when you pull the fiberglass apart to get the rotting remains out ! Rgds John.
is the closing plates under either wheel arch, as mine were pop riveted. Get the shovel ready to collect the rust & dust when you pull the fiberglass apart to get the rotting remains out ! Rgds John.
- john-c-elan+2
- Second Gear
- Posts: 117
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
I aquired mine from Spyder Cars. Thay are galvanised and came complete with new seatbelt mounting plates. If I recall correctly, the closing plates are extra.
I bought a set of stainless nuts & bolts from Custom Fastenings. They sell a bolt with a very slim wide socket head. I also used stainless repair washers to spread the load on the inside of the car.
You may have to resort to the grinder or drill to remove the heads of the old bolts.
There are some pictures of the replacemt here:
<a href='http://www.lotuselan.info/august_2003.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.lotuselan.info/august_2003.htm</a>
Good luck
Kevin
I bought a set of stainless nuts & bolts from Custom Fastenings. They sell a bolt with a very slim wide socket head. I also used stainless repair washers to spread the load on the inside of the car.
You may have to resort to the grinder or drill to remove the heads of the old bolts.
There are some pictures of the replacemt here:
<a href='http://www.lotuselan.info/august_2003.htm' target='_blank'>http://www.lotuselan.info/august_2003.htm</a>
Good luck
Kevin
- kevin
- First Gear
- Posts: 38
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Thanks to all. I removed the old sills today with the help of an angle grinder and was amazed at the state of it! I have ordered new Lotus galvanised sills from SJ Sports cars (they dont do stainless anymore). Unfortunately they wont have them for three weeks so I wont be taking it to the classic lotus event at the factory .
This job just seems to be going on and on!
This job just seems to be going on and on!
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
The Elan Factory has a write up on sill changing in the technical information section of its web site.
Try this link
<a href='http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/technical_information/Elan%20%2B2%20internal%20sill%20replacement%20procedure.pdf' target='_blank'>http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/technica...20procedure.pdf</a>
Rohan
Try this link
<a href='http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/technical_information/Elan%20%2B2%20internal%20sill%20replacement%20procedure.pdf' target='_blank'>http://www.elanfactory.com.au/pdf/technica...20procedure.pdf</a>
Rohan
In God I trust.... All others please bring data
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8412
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
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