Putting The Body Back On The Chassis

[Mohe]

Can anyone help?

I am renovating a S3 1966 s/e baby elan and will soon be dropping the painted bodyshell onto my new rolling chassis.

Can anyone guide me through the bits of felt and fibreglass spacers that are supposed to be sandwhiched between the shell and chassis please?


Geoff

[brassringfarm]

Geoff-- I put my body on last Summer. It was a new body onto an old frame. I used some closed cell urethane foam (1/2" thick) to go over the box section of the center frame. Be sure to leave hole for drive shaft access port and for seat belt attachment points. Being cheap - I was given a used wet suit which I cut up and used. Can't wait to see expression on next person who restores the car's face when they remove the body! Used the urethane because it won't hold water and rust out frame.
The rest of the bobbins lined up pretty well except for the passenger side of transmission tunnel next to heater. I had to drill out the bobbin somewhat. The space between the body and frame on the flange on the floor was quite small. I could have used washers, but didn't. Some use steel washers and some use a rubber flat washers. Personally, I don't think it makes a huge difference - but some will disagree with me. There was no way in hell I could ever get washers between body and frame at the rear shock towers, front shock towers in engine bay, or on top of transmission - but luckily the fit was pretty good anyway.
My transmission and engine and headers were already in the car when I added the body - it made things a LOT easier. I did have to remove the heater valve and the rear 4 studs for the webers to let body slide past with no scratches. There's an easy trick to install the heater valve WITHOUT having to raise the engine: Drill out the pop rivet and rotate the steel outboard part of the valve (which the heater hose attaches to) until the tabs are free. Remove the outer part and the rest of the heater valve will be able to be screwed in without hitting the body! Then simply re-attach the outer part of the valve and install a new pop rivet. Voila!
Also remove your shift knob. It will not clear the shift lever opening as you move the body onto the chassis from the rear.
I installed body with 4 people with the doors and trunk lid attached. About 50/lb per person! Piece of cake.
Good luck
Paul Zimmerman
65 S2

[simon.mitchell]

I'm just in the process of putting the body of my Plus 2 back onto my new Spyder chassis. The first time I tried it there was very little gap between the body and mounting points - except the ones right at the back behind the diff where whatever I tried I couldn't get the gap down from about 1/2". I've just called Andy at Spyder for some advice and he's recommended the following; Drop the body onto the chassis as before, but then place small jacks under the sill members just behind each front wheel. Raise the body slightly using these jacks until the front mounts by the steering rack are just clear of the chassis. Then push the back down until the body sits on the rear mounts correctly. Apparently the Plus 2 bodies are able to pivot and this is the best way to ensure that all of the mounts line up. Spyder recommend drilling all of the mounting holes except the ones in the rear towers. Do up the front tower mounts first, then the rest. Pack out any gaps with steel washers. When you are happy with the 'fit' of the body, drill and tap the rear tower mounts with the body in situ. The reasoning here is that the rest of the mounts will tend to pull the body down onto the chassis, meaning that it may be difficult to line up the rear tower mounts. I'll have another go at the weekend and let you know how it goes. Not sure if this will help you with a baby elan or a pre-drilled chassis, but you never know!

Good luck,
Simon

[khamai]

Great advice from the above posters...

3 methods I've used for removal & replacement of the body.
1) Aforementioned 4 people

2) Sill jacks (pallet jacks work with padding), need to lift high enough to allow the chassis to roll under.

3) engine hoist with long arm. This actually favorite. Using an engine hoist with engine cradle (allows you to balance the body a angles). Secure the body to the hoist/cradle with chain, tow strape or strong rope. I use the out board seat belt mounting points and the steel "rebar" near the footwells for tie off points on the body. You can then lift the body with the engine hoist (cherry picker) and then move the body over the chassis and drop. This can be done with one person.

[Mohe]

Thanks to everyone who helped with advice on putting bodyshells on chassis. This is very much appreciated and I now feel much more confident.

Geoff

[elansprint71]

I just put my body back on the Sprint yesterday; I bought a camping mat (for sleeping on) from Argos for about three quid, cut it to fit and stuck it on with Copydex. This is closed cell foam so will not absorb moisture like the old hessian stuff.

Cheers,

Pete

[twincamman]

geez I just got 3 other guys and my wife to see and guide the thing on the chassis with the motor less webbers and on it went no trauma :rolleyes: ed law

[pereirac]

If the engine is in the chassis before you put the body back on, take off the heater valve on the exhaust side, otherwise you will get stuck..