Failsafe vacuum canister diaphram
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I recently had my headlights pop up and not go down with the engine running. They've always stayed down
for months. So I diagnosed it to be the vacuum canister. I swapped it for a spare I had and the system
now works a treat, as it should.
The canister I removed had no rust but felt 'sloppy' when actuating the rod so I decided to take it
apart. I don't see any rust inside the upper and lower 'cans' and I don't see any rips or tears in
the diaphram. Is it possible that the diaphram is so stretched out that the movement needed is
just not there? I plan to test the integrity of the diaphram in case I'm missing a rip somewhere.
Pictured is with the actuator fully extended. Should the diaphram be in this position?
for months. So I diagnosed it to be the vacuum canister. I swapped it for a spare I had and the system
now works a treat, as it should.
The canister I removed had no rust but felt 'sloppy' when actuating the rod so I decided to take it
apart. I don't see any rust inside the upper and lower 'cans' and I don't see any rips or tears in
the diaphram. Is it possible that the diaphram is so stretched out that the movement needed is
just not there? I plan to test the integrity of the diaphram in case I'm missing a rip somewhere.
Pictured is with the actuator fully extended. Should the diaphram be in this position?
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3020
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
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