Door Hinges -- New Studs

[john.houston]

Hi All
Advice please .
When I removed both doors 4 of the 12 studs holding the door in place sheared close to the hinge face .This weekends job is to replace them .Not thinking I replaced the poly bushes so heat is out .
I intend to start with WD40 and try one of these new Cobalt Drills and see if the snapped studs come out using "easy outs" stud extractors.I cant use a vice because the mounts are still on the bar so dont want to use too much pressure Were the studs locktited in ?
Anyone done this Job?

thanks again

[prezoom]

If you can find some left hand drill bits, many times using them with a rust releasing agent, the heat from drilling, along with the drill turning so as to help loosen the fastener, may cause the fastener to back out. Last year while attending an automobile swap meet, and browsing through a tool vendor's selection, I found kit of left handed drill bit for an extremely low price. I may never need them, but if I do, I am now equipped. Remember to start with a small drill and keep increasing the drill size. It is easier to center a small drill in the offending fastener. Torque, heat and friction can be your friend.

[Mick6186]

The best tool for I have ever used in 45 years of messing to remove stubborn broken studs is a Snap On stud extractor. If you use easy outs and they snap you will then have trouble drilling the hardened metal,
Mick

[prezoom]

After trying many extraction tools, most with little success, I purchased a kit from Mac Tools. It has never failed me, if other methods were not successful. I like it because the extraction part is a long shaft, used with a separate sliding matching sleeve, which is slid down as close as possible to the broken bolt/stud for wrenching. If the extraction shaft is damaged, it can be cut off, and the new exposed section becomes the extraction portion of the tool. Twenty or thirty years ago, Eastwood offered a package of three sizes of left hand drill bits. Those were the first that I purchased. They also made a nice Christmas present for like minded friends. I still have an Eastwood set, but the new kit offered the drills in an index box, like most regular drill sets. The kit only goes up to one quarter inch, no large sizes are included. The only disadvantage to the left hand bits, is if your drill motor does not have a keyed chuck. Hand tightened chucks have a tendency to come loose.

[john.houston]

Thanks for the replies.
Unfortunately they all sheared level with the face or a couple of threads down hence the need for drilling but I never knew about left hand drills .i will do some research about them .

The studs went with such a bang I assumed they we locktited in .

Thanks John.

[Mick6186]

The Mac tool sounds the same as the Snap On extractor. They work by drilling a specific diameter hole in the broken stud and then hammering in a splined spring steel shaft that accepts a sliding octagonal sleeve to undo with a spanner. The tool can be used on studs that have broken flush with or below the surface,
Mick

[mikealdren]

FWIW I've had similar issues and I've drilled them out with my pillar drill on the bench and cleaned up the threads afterwards. I'm definitely going to get some LH drills now. If all else fails, you can get them welded up and re-drill and tap them.

[nigelrbfurness]

Don't bother trying to remove them. You'll waste a lot of time and spend a lot of money on special tools you only use once and may not work anyway. Centre pop them and using a new drill of the correct size for tapping drill them clear then tap new threads. Then screw in new ones. Job done.

[Bigbaldybloke]

For my two penny worth, try the left handed drills and extractor and if that fails drill out and helicoil.