Silver metalflake roof
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Hiya,
Anybody have an ici or PJ paint code for the factory silver metal flake that the +2 roof's were painted in.
I've got the lotus code from the wiki, but the paint shop I'm using can't match it from that.
atb.
Chris
Or anybody got a very close alternative?
Anybody have an ici or PJ paint code for the factory silver metal flake that the +2 roof's were painted in.
I've got the lotus code from the wiki, but the paint shop I'm using can't match it from that.
atb.
Chris
Or anybody got a very close alternative?
- chrisban
- First Gear
- Posts: 21
- Joined: 08 Feb 2014
Chris,
I'm sure someone here will scold me if I'm incorrect.
The metal flake was in the casting of the top........giant flakes..........I don't know what the heck they were thinking.
As to a hue of silver, I reckon it's your choice. Most +2 roofs over here were painted to cover up the flake.
mike
I'm sure someone here will scold me if I'm incorrect.
The metal flake was in the casting of the top........giant flakes..........I don't know what the heck they were thinking.
As to a hue of silver, I reckon it's your choice. Most +2 roofs over here were painted to cover up the flake.
mike
"Be Polite, Be Professional, But have a plan to kill everyone you meet"
General "Mad Dog" James Mattis United States Marines
General "Mad Dog" James Mattis United States Marines
- cal44
- Third Gear
- Posts: 498
- Joined: 28 Nov 2010
Page 61 of the Plus 2 workshop manual gives the details. It is basically spray the roof to match the base colour, then mix 5oz flake to 2 pints of acrylic blend clear and spray over the base coat. Then spray with light dust coats of acrylic blend clear and flat off then polish. I would guess any good custom paint shop should be able to supply the flake - I believe its available in different sizes.
HTHs
Matt
HTHs
Matt
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 600
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
I had a boat place do mine as they are well-versed at shooting clear with metalflake and having it consistently lay down. Gordon Sauer
- Gordon Sauer
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 608
- Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Hi Chris
Metalflake is a company which still exists Google "Metalflake" and you should find:-
http://www.metalflake.co.uk/products_li ... 20PRODUCTS
or
https://www.metalflakecorp.com/
The product you want is M011018 Micro #1 Silver (assuming of course it's a silver roof your doing) and it's expensive at about ?40.00 for 8oz. Application is as outlined here by Matt. One point to note is that generally it's normal practice to apply the flake over a sprayed sliver base coat, however, in the case of the Plus 2 roof the flake is actually applied over a white base coat (yellow in the case of a gold roof). It's this fact which I believes give the original Plus 2 roof it's rather distinctive look
Regards
Andy
Metalflake is a company which still exists Google "Metalflake" and you should find:-
http://www.metalflake.co.uk/products_li ... 20PRODUCTS
or
https://www.metalflakecorp.com/
The product you want is M011018 Micro #1 Silver (assuming of course it's a silver roof your doing) and it's expensive at about ?40.00 for 8oz. Application is as outlined here by Matt. One point to note is that generally it's normal practice to apply the flake over a sprayed sliver base coat, however, in the case of the Plus 2 roof the flake is actually applied over a white base coat (yellow in the case of a gold roof). It's this fact which I believes give the original Plus 2 roof it's rather distinctive look
Regards
Andy
- andyelan
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Matt Elan wrote:Page 61 of the Plus 2 workshop manual gives the details. It is basically spray the roof to match the base colour, then mix 5oz flake to 2 pints of acrylic blend clear and spray over the base coat. Then spray with light dust coats of acrylic blend clear and flat off then polish. I would guess any good custom paint shop should be able to supply the flake - I believe its available in different sizes.
HTHs
Matt
Thanks for that Matt, can I just confirm it's an acrylic clearcoat?
- chrisban
- First Gear
- Posts: 21
- Joined: 08 Feb 2014
Hi there - I would assume its acrylic clear coat but don't know for sure - I've just quoted the manual. However, if you get some metal flake then the suppliers should be able to tell you what they recommend you use and what you should use as a base coat.
Matthew Vale - Classic Motoring Author
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
1968 Plus 2 - Somewhat cosmetically and mechanically modified
1969 Plus 2S - Currently undergoing nut and bolt restoration
Visit me on matthewvale.com
-
Matt Elan - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 600
- Joined: 27 Oct 2011
Mine was done in urethane clearcoat with the metalflake in it rather than acrylic. Since the original roof was done in the mold it would've been clear gelcoat with the metalflake. Here's a picture of the joint Gordon Sauer
- Gordon Sauer
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 608
- Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Hi Everyone
Metalflake originally based all their paint/products around air drying clear acrylic as, in it's day, this was about the best finish that was available. Today I would suggest a more modern up-to-date product such as urethane clear coat would be a better bet.
One point I'm thinking about however is that, as the exposed clear polyester gel coat on the Plus 2 roof was not very colour fast and would soon take on a yellow or golden tint when exposed to sunlight, it might be worth very slightly tinting any lacquer used to avoid having a restored car look too "new".
Andy
Metalflake originally based all their paint/products around air drying clear acrylic as, in it's day, this was about the best finish that was available. Today I would suggest a more modern up-to-date product such as urethane clear coat would be a better bet.
One point I'm thinking about however is that, as the exposed clear polyester gel coat on the Plus 2 roof was not very colour fast and would soon take on a yellow or golden tint when exposed to sunlight, it might be worth very slightly tinting any lacquer used to avoid having a restored car look too "new".
Andy
- andyelan
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 618
- Joined: 28 Feb 2008
Wow, I have a hard time with that. Kind of like putting on my Carnival red paint and making it faded in appearance. I saw a Triumph at a show and it had real obvious runs in the paint on the inside fender in the engine compartment which the person was quick to point out that it came from the factory that way-I still thought it unfortunate that you had to so quickly jump on the explanation to account for the obvious poor presentation. Yes my roof was very poor quality when I got it and had a really yellow cast to it but there's no way I would've ever wanted to spray it to look like, just my two cents Gordon Sauer
- Gordon Sauer
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 608
- Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Well, tempering myself I would say I did not put clearcoat on my red because it is too far from the original color--pops too much, so we all make compromises to try to get It done. The roof really is such a pretty component of the car although I know a lot of people don't care forit, I would've never wanted to keep it in the crummy appearance that it takes on with age and sunlight and I would suspect redoing the whole car and being left with an aged "properly" roof would be quite a disappointment Gordon Sauer
- Gordon Sauer
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 608
- Joined: 20 Aug 2004
Metalflake is a minefield. Most spray shops (rightly) steer clear of it. When done well it is brilliant.. well you can guess the alternative. Silver can be original, gold not, but it looks great. Size of the flake is up to personal preference - smaller is probably closer to the lotus original. I learnt through error that the only way to get what you want is to insist on samples - see pics. Expensive and some shops won't do this. After some discussion and an abortive finish, Frank at Options 1 agreed to do this. I was happy, but after over 5 years the finish is in need of some attention - need to take it back for a consultation. The solvent in the clear lacquer seems to evaporate over time and heat leaving a rough finish. Needs a thick clear coat, which is difficult. I may have to settle for a new coat every ten years.. the Gold finish (not original) is still the most distinctive feature of the car and makes it an unforgettable sight.
A side effect is that the metalflake is really good at keeping heat out!
Jeremy
A side effect is that the metalflake is really good at keeping heat out!
Jeremy
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JJDraper - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 923
- Joined: 17 Oct 2004
Mine was done about ten years ago and just sitting in the garage and never being out, because this is a most protracted restoration, led to it settling and despite some fine finish sanding (2500), then it looked like I was starting to expose a few flakes so I shot two more coats of Urethane clearcoat on it and it bonded fine and looks great. Gordon Sauer
- Gordon Sauer
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 608
- Joined: 20 Aug 2004
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