how best put the Elan on 4 jack stands
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It's finally time to try to revive my Elan. It needs a whole bunch of work. I have 4 stands and a bottle jack for lifting. Where should the stands be placed. The car is normally jacked one side at a time by the body at the midpoint of the rocker panel, but for an extended lifting, I would feel better jacking on the frame if possible. I'm sure the suspension is off-limits. What's the best practice? I did a search, but didn't see anyone else concerned with this issue. Thanks.
Also, anyone in LA or OC areas in the midst of a restoration that would like to compare notes? I suspect I'm in for some frustrating episodes, and misery loves company!
Also, anyone in LA or OC areas in the midst of a restoration that would like to compare notes? I suspect I'm in for some frustrating episodes, and misery loves company!
- was
- New-tral
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 14 Oct 2005
Here's a newbie tip. Order the Dave Bean parts catalog. Even if you never buy a single part from them the technical information which is tucked in there is invaluable. Much of it supersedes the Lotus Manual for safety related issues. You should consult the DB catalog first before looking in the Lotus Workshop Manual if you don't know this technical stuff like the back of your hand.
- type26owner
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 18 Sep 2003
Thanks for the good tip Keith. I concur with that advice.
I am already a Bean customer and sort of have their catalog memorized. Don't recall any safety tips there though. Perhaps you have a different version. Mine is 1998.
The one tip I do recall is their instructing the installer to read the workshop manual and then do it the way the manual says to do it.
Regards.
I am already a Bean customer and sort of have their catalog memorized. Don't recall any safety tips there though. Perhaps you have a different version. Mine is 1998.
The one tip I do recall is their instructing the installer to read the workshop manual and then do it the way the manual says to do it.
Regards.
- was
- New-tral
- Posts: 7
- Joined: 14 Oct 2005
the way i do it, is to use a U-shaped plywood support for the rear (to avoid crushing the tailpipe) and lifting the whole back end up from the frame in the center. I put the jack stands under the axles in the rear, and under the frame in the front.
the main thing i feel is to not jack under the fiberglass "jacking points" recommended about 35 years ago.
the main thing i feel is to not jack under the fiberglass "jacking points" recommended about 35 years ago.
- chicagojeff
- Second Gear
- Posts: 163
- Joined: 22 Apr 2005
Was,
I was refering to the fretting and metal fatigue issues with the Chapman strut. I can't remember if Dave tells you to lap the hub to the axle also but if he doesn't, do that too. Loctite it everywhere!
Just as Jeff says make yourself a u-shaped wooden block to straddle the exhaust pipe but fits up into the recess of the center chassis channel. That's the way to lift the rear up with a floorjack. Use the block only near the rear or towards the front where body blends and overlaps the channel minding not to crush the metal brake line right there though.
I was refering to the fretting and metal fatigue issues with the Chapman strut. I can't remember if Dave tells you to lap the hub to the axle also but if he doesn't, do that too. Loctite it everywhere!
Just as Jeff says make yourself a u-shaped wooden block to straddle the exhaust pipe but fits up into the recess of the center chassis channel. That's the way to lift the rear up with a floorjack. Use the block only near the rear or towards the front where body blends and overlaps the channel minding not to crush the metal brake line right there though.
- type26owner
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1246
- Joined: 18 Sep 2003
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