HOW LONG TO SWOP DASH?
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My S4 needs a new dash, had a read through the achive and it doesnt seem a very popular job!
How long does it actually take to do?
How long does it actually take to do?
- TRACKMEISTER
- First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008
22 hours, 38 minutes, and 41 seconds.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
As Frank implies, it's impossible to give an exact time, but if literally all you were doing was swapping over the dash, you could do it in a day. In practice, though, unless your electrics are in perfect conditon, I'd budget the time and money to replace the dashboard loom while you are at it.
- MintSprint
- Second Gear
- Posts: 149
- Joined: 27 Jun 2006
I thought Frank Howard the comedian was long gone!
Just wanted an idea of how much time to set aside
Thanks
Just wanted an idea of how much time to set aside
Thanks
- TRACKMEISTER
- First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008
TRACKMEISTER wrote:Just wanted an idea of how much time to set aside
I have my dash out at present. I had the luxury of a spare set of switches, so no labeling of wires to do for starters, it took me around 4-5 hours to remove, Oh and the wiring loom is new.
Now I have spent some time fitting the glove box lid, and new glove box. Made some new fixing brackets etc as I did not have any.
Fiddly jobs, not quite finished yet, so around another 8 hours.
The whole lot is due for a trial fit soon (when work permits, I work away from home) I am probably thinking at least another 8 hour day, that is if all goes well.
So in conclusion I would say at least 3 x 8 hour days if you hit snags, then add on some more.
Hope this helps,
Doug.
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dougweall - Third Gear
- Posts: 273
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
TRACKMEISTER wrote:I thought Frank Howard the comedian was long gone!
Just wanted an idea of how much time to set aside
Thanks
Your question is as funny as Franks responce, it takes as long as it takes to get it all working again. With a new dash, new harness and every thing known to be working properly, bonnet catch cable not buggered up and choke and heater cables in good shape it might be done in a day. Most likely it will not go that way and it can take all week of dealing with one problem after the next. You don't give any details as to the condition of things so one can only guess. Its a Lotus after all and someone has surely been in there before so one can only guess what you will find.
Gary
p.s. - Let us all know on how long it takes, and we'll get a pool going to see who has the best wild ass guess
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garyeanderson - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3391
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
I reckoned on a weekend. However, it actually took about 6 weeks, but as it was done over the winter - I wasn?t in any hurry.
When the whole ?mess? was exposed (see picture), it seemed the right time to consider as many easy upgrades as possible now that the complete dash wiring system was at hand and available to be modified. The list of mods was as follows:
1. Double-up and replacement of ground wires ? many of which I wired in series and parallel (OTT maybe but safer rather than sorry). There was only one connection to the chassis ? I made it two ? that?s where some parallel connections came from.
2. Rewired the heater and wiper circuits to include relays to protect the old switches from inductive loads.
3. Added relays for the window motors in anticipation of taking the doors apart next winter.
4. Increased cable ratings to all relays ? new and existing ones.
5. Replaced redundant headlamp vacuum switch with hazard switch as I was converting to electric lifters at the same time.
6. Replaced instrument illumination bulbs for 5 Watt, and the main beam, indicator and handbrake bulbs with LEDs.
7. Replace the heater hoses with long lasting silicone hose.
8. Refreshed the finish on the demister grilles.
These are what I can remember off the top of my head ? I?m sure there were other things that can only be done with the dash removed.
Some things to remember:
1. Label each connection.
2. Make a sketch of each switch and instrument with the connection numbers and cable codes.
3. Mark the top/bottom on each switch to make sure they go back in the correct way.
4. Align each switch from the front of the dash aperture ? not the rear.
Best of luck.
When the whole ?mess? was exposed (see picture), it seemed the right time to consider as many easy upgrades as possible now that the complete dash wiring system was at hand and available to be modified. The list of mods was as follows:
1. Double-up and replacement of ground wires ? many of which I wired in series and parallel (OTT maybe but safer rather than sorry). There was only one connection to the chassis ? I made it two ? that?s where some parallel connections came from.
2. Rewired the heater and wiper circuits to include relays to protect the old switches from inductive loads.
3. Added relays for the window motors in anticipation of taking the doors apart next winter.
4. Increased cable ratings to all relays ? new and existing ones.
5. Replaced redundant headlamp vacuum switch with hazard switch as I was converting to electric lifters at the same time.
6. Replaced instrument illumination bulbs for 5 Watt, and the main beam, indicator and handbrake bulbs with LEDs.
7. Replace the heater hoses with long lasting silicone hose.
8. Refreshed the finish on the demister grilles.
These are what I can remember off the top of my head ? I?m sure there were other things that can only be done with the dash removed.
Some things to remember:
1. Label each connection.
2. Make a sketch of each switch and instrument with the connection numbers and cable codes.
3. Mark the top/bottom on each switch to make sure they go back in the correct way.
4. Align each switch from the front of the dash aperture ? not the rear.
Best of luck.
Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)
Growing old is mandatory..........Growing up is optional
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)
Growing old is mandatory..........Growing up is optional
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bcmc33 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1825
- Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Just thought I would let you all know..................6 hours.
glovebox was a PITA, and I didnt expect to have to drill holes in the new dash. There was no hole for the bonnet pull, or for the wire for the map light. ..............
Anyway everything working, rev counter wasnt initially but two wires were the wrong way round.
If your methodical it isnt a difficult job.
glovebox was a PITA, and I didnt expect to have to drill holes in the new dash. There was no hole for the bonnet pull, or for the wire for the map light. ..............
Anyway everything working, rev counter wasnt initially but two wires were the wrong way round.
If your methodical it isnt a difficult job.
- TRACKMEISTER
- First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 09 Feb 2008
I'm surprised that you did not find a load of other jobs which needed doing whilst the dash was out.
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elansprint71 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
Loved the bit about finding a working ammeter hidden behind the dash (on your other thread but this one is more 'live' re comments). Very surreal. At least the mice could check the electrics were working as they should.
John
John
- johnsimister
- Second Gear
- Posts: 125
- Joined: 04 Aug 2008
johnsimister wrote:Loved the bit about finding a working ammeter hidden behind the dash (on your other thread but this one is more 'live' re comments). Very surreal. At least the mice could check the electrics were working as they should.
John
That's nothing. I have a whole radio hidden back there - working except that its outputs appear to be blown - a matter for future investigation and a future thread.
Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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RotoFlexible - Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 01 Sep 2005
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