door trim
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I can no longer open either of my doors on the plus 2! so saturday morning will be spent taking the trims off and sorting the rod out, which is presumably what's pbroken or popped out....?!
anyone else had to do this? any tips/advice on taking the trim off or putting it back?
thanks
anyone else had to do this? any tips/advice on taking the trim off or putting it back?
thanks
- RobCapper
- Second Gear
- Posts: 87
- Joined: 19 Dec 2005
Can you no longer open them from the inside? I had an inside plastic handle break and took the door panel off without much effort. Do you have a shop manual? If it's from the outside that you can't open the doors I suggest a little WD 40 squirted in around the push button.
- 1964 S1
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
I've had the mechanism on my drivers door go a couple of times - but for the inside only handle only (S4 is same as a +2). If it is inside only....
There is a short rod from the pull handle which is joined to a long rod which goes back to and operates the lock. The join is a nylon block - each rod hooks into it and is tensioned on by a spring, which should stop them popping out. But they get old and worn, the spring loses tension, and - one day you get a dead handle. The long rod on mine just kept working out of the nylon block. I solved it by locking a plastic cable tie around the nylon block & rod to keep the rod in.
Access is easy - three screws in the door pull handle (just pull handle back and you'll see them), and carefully pull the door trim away from the frame starting from the bottom. The locking clips (on the trim) pop out of their locators (on the door) and can be just pushed back in when you have finished.
There is a short rod from the pull handle which is joined to a long rod which goes back to and operates the lock. The join is a nylon block - each rod hooks into it and is tensioned on by a spring, which should stop them popping out. But they get old and worn, the spring loses tension, and - one day you get a dead handle. The long rod on mine just kept working out of the nylon block. I solved it by locking a plastic cable tie around the nylon block & rod to keep the rod in.
Access is easy - three screws in the door pull handle (just pull handle back and you'll see them), and carefully pull the door trim away from the frame starting from the bottom. The locking clips (on the trim) pop out of their locators (on the door) and can be just pushed back in when you have finished.
Elliott - 70 S4 dhc
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ElliottN - Second Gear
- Posts: 171
- Joined: 19 Apr 2004
I spent days trying to adjust my doors so that they opened and shut smoothly .I gave up ,on replacing the trim and just about to pack up tools I lubricated the lock mechanism Ureka
Regards John 1969S4DHC
- triumphelan
- Second Gear
- Posts: 195
- Joined: 04 Jul 2005
Everything is completely easy after undoing the two bolts that hold the armrest/handle, and it slips off fairly easily. But NOT reassembling.. with the complete *&%"#&%"#&% job of pushing the door trim on around the bastard pull handles !! without damaging the door trim panels. BE VERY VERY CAREFUL. I struggled for AGES.
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
Smartass!
If only someone had given me this tip... I was a fool following the workshop handbook, with something like "the door panel will slip over the metal frame for the interior door handle", yeah right.
Suffice to say there was a lot of swearing involved..
If only someone had given me this tip... I was a fool following the workshop handbook, with something like "the door panel will slip over the metal frame for the interior door handle", yeah right.
Suffice to say there was a lot of swearing involved..
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
hahahaha. We're big on irony in Norway..
Just me being really stupid believing the best way was to follow the workshop manual, thinking it wouldn't do any good to disconnect the door handle from the door.... As in many other cases I now feel silly for not thinking, but I'm not alone.
Even worse, after refitting the door panels (taken off to fit Ferrari Dino mirrors), the passenger electric window now only works with the drivers door open... go figure.
Just me being really stupid believing the best way was to follow the workshop manual, thinking it wouldn't do any good to disconnect the door handle from the door.... As in many other cases I now feel silly for not thinking, but I'm not alone.
Even worse, after refitting the door panels (taken off to fit Ferrari Dino mirrors), the passenger electric window now only works with the drivers door open... go figure.
- thor
- Third Gear
- Posts: 483
- Joined: 12 May 2005
Thor
A broken wire in the loom where it passes from the body to the door,causing an intermittent break in certain positions?
John
A broken wire in the loom where it passes from the body to the door,causing an intermittent break in certain positions?
John
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4533
- Joined: 21 Sep 2003
On my Elan+2 I found the problem of the interior door pull not wrking was flexing of the operating rod - it bent at both ends. A little local stiffening by welding on some stiffening - actually welding wire - got rid of the lost motion and they no wok perfectly.
- cdraper
- Second Gear
- Posts: 79
- Joined: 22 Oct 2003
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