Power Windows Don't Work

[Hegg]

In my federal +2, the power windows on both sides do not roll down. When pressing the button, the glass moves VERY slightly, so I know the motors are electrically hooked up and connected to the glass.

I'm wondering if this sounds more like the motors are in need of a rebuild/replacement, or if something might just be gummed up and need good cleaning? I took the panel off the door and looked a bit, but it's hard to see much. It looks like quite a job to get those motors out.

I can get the window to open and close if I apply lots of downward/upward pressure on the glass itself while I hold the button down. My ammeter shows quite a drain when pressing the up/down buttons.

Now that spring/summer is approaching, I want to get my windows working properly. Thanks for any advice you can give!

[1964 S1]

check the fluid level in the battery ...charge the battery.... start the car(e).... lubricate the window channels and any other friction points.... then ...pretend you're a doctor and help the windows along... grab and lift with authority while using the switch, using your free hand pull and encourage, limber them up a bit, come back in about a week...let us know how they feel... any improvement?

[Hegg]

Haha, thanks for the reply! The battery is full and car running and all that. I'll go with the lubrication route now and see how I get along.

Thanks!

[simon.mitchell]

I've just re-wired mine taking an ignition fed live to the centre terminals of the window switches, then running a couple of thick wires directly to the up / down side of each motor and finishing off with a good earth. I still need to lubricate the windows but even without the car running the windows zip up and down a treat. I know there's been debate about the relays role in protecting the switchs, but I feel that they're hefty enough to take the current. We'll see...

[Greg Foster]

Hegg,
Like Simon I too rewired my window motors. As he suggested, tie into the fuse box and bring a new power wire under the dash, a 14 ga wire will do. Splice and split the wire to make a "Y" connector. From the Y, run a 14 ga cable to each side of the car, running the wire in a neat and clean configuration to . I mark my wires with a marking tape which reads "power windows" then "Left side" and "right side". All my new wires are lucor or spade type connections which I crimp and seal with hot glue type heat shrink tubing. This will be you new power cable and will run to a set of relays (2 on each side).Run all your new wires before you cut and crimp the ends to make sure everything will fit. You can get the relalys at British wiring .com, along with any connectors and crimping tools and shrink tubing you will need. To make the job neater, get the relay bases which slide together as a unit and have mounting holes to fasten to the body under the dash The bases aren't needed but they make the job very neat and when /If you have to replace the relay its unplug and plug. You can run all your wires to the bases which have the proper spade connectors. You will need 2 ... one for up and one for down. Jumper the power between the relay bases to feed both relays. Tell British wiring what you are doing so they can give you the correct relays and wiring diagram or instructions. Dave bean also sells relays and instructions. Remove the wires from the window motors ( you may have to remove the motors to gain access if you can't reach them). The motor is grounded by a mounting bolt, separately from the 2 wires( up and down) on top of the motor. Make sure the ground is good. You must thread(remove) the wires back through the door and guide tube. These will be hooked up to the relays as they come from the window switches and they will activate each relay as needed. Now from each relay you must run 1 - 14 ga wire and feed these back through the door to the window motor. To make it easier don't install the spade connectors until the wire length has been determined and everything pulled back to the motor. Make the wire runs as short as convenient to maximize power to the motor. Don't get you fingers in between the glass and the top of the door.... you may loose them, the windows work that well!
Let me know if you need more help.
Greg

[archigator]

Don't push down the windows while the down switch is on! I made that mistake when the door was open and it almost came off the hinges!

I've taken the window frames out and re-cabled them, lubricating the pulleys and that does help a bit. It's still not anywhere near as fast as a contemporary power window though. I plan to get the frame re-chromed one of these days... more for appearance sake than performance.

Gary
'71 Elan Sprint Coupe

[Hegg]

Thanks again for everyone's replies. What a great wealth of experience and information!

[cdraper]

I had the same problem - but in order not to take the dash out fitted relays at the base of the A pillar with a power feed and operated the relays via the original wiring - a test showed the original set only gave seven volts at the motors - no wounder they hardly worked!!11