Headlight vacuume pod..

[RobCapper]

Hi - I have the probably widly experienced problem of my lights popping up 15 minds or so having finished - which is clearly a problem with the vacuume pod or connections. I'm guessing that the pod has simply rusted through, or the diaphram has perished... I have no idea how to check the system to check its not simply a connection or somthing less expensive than a new pod.. am I better off just buying the #100 pod and gettingo n with it - or could it be something slighter more minor..?

Many thanks -

Ro,
1972 +2 130s (used everyday of the year, rain, shine or snow)

[john-c-elan+2]

Having spent ages convincing myself it was the pod, I bought an Elite n.o.s. pod. Then removed old pod & welded +2 top bracket (they are different) onto Elite pod. Then thought I'd check b4 fitting, yes you guessed it the 'new' pod wouldn't hold the vac. Oh joy. Re-welded the bracket back on the old pod, and re-fitted. Checked out the vac lines, replacing plastic piping, siliconed up the joints, checked on-way valve, solenoid, and finally came to the conclusion that the 'T' piece was the culprit. So replaced this bit and bingo - they are still down after 7 weeks ! So the moral is - check the easy bits first......pipes, joints, try by-passing the vac solenoid, Lastly after all else fails, replace the bl**ding pod. john

[ppnelan]

I agree - if you still have the plastic tee-piece on the front of the vacuum tank/chassis crossmember, check it hasn't cracked.

Also, check the one-way valve on the manifold, as they can get a bit sticky.

Matthew

[chrishewett]

I converted my +2 to the failsafe system. New pod, solenoid, pipes and manifold valve (at great expense). The lights pop up after about 45 minutes. I thought this was normal until reading this thread. It looks like I will have to check the whole system out again!
Chris

[Si_130/5]

Hi Rob,

I had the same problem and John is right. First use silicone fish tank sealant on the pipe connections, check the T-piece into the front cross member and the non return valve (immerse in petrol and blow both ways) mine had been resited next to the T-piece. The problem is often the solenoid valve mounted near the horn relay at the N/S front of the engine bay. The rubber seal goes soggy and the pressure equalises soon after turning off. If this is the culprit and you or anyone else would like to avoid buying a new one here is a link which shows how to overhaul it.

http://www.belchamber.org/whatlights.html

Hope this helps,

Best wishes,

Si

[andyhodg]

I don't want to alarm anyone to much but I had a problem with not being able to maintain a vacuum on my +2 (non - failsafe headlights) when i accelerated the headlights would dissappear - somewhat worrying!

I finally chased to cracks in the vacuum tank around the wishbone mounts on both sides. (its a Spyder service exchange chassis 10 - 15 years old).

Syder were able to weld the cracks and fitt reinfocing patches to both lower mounts. Also found that both wishbone bolts were bent. I guess the car had been heavily kerbed at some time in its past.

[Si_130/5]

Hi again Rob,

As John says, you can determine whether it's the vacuum pod by firmly clamping the hose running between it and the solenoid valve (easiest with the bonnet removed) whilst the engine is running. If the lights still pop up 15 mins after switching off then it will be the pod, otherwise it will be the solenoid valve/pipe connections/non return valve/T-piece on the other side of the clamp.
Let us know how you get on,


Best wishes,
Si