Lotus Elan

Spyder Zetec Suspension Torque settings

PostPost by: gordy7 » Sat Jul 11, 2020 3:20 pm

To those in the know....

Is there a list of torque settings for the suspension on Spyder Zetec converted car?

Gordy
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Sat Jul 11, 2020 4:52 pm

Do them up BFT?

I would guess 30lb ft, but more important would be to set the suspension under load before torquing exactly as per the original, lots of threads on here if you search.

Or you could ask Andy Widnall or Sean at Spyder.

My Zetec +2 is 12 years young this year, nearly old enough to be a classic
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:20 pm

Thank you... I’m in contact with both Sean and Andy to buy new bushes for the top damper mount on the front. I went through the suspension and ‘lent’ on the spanner’s so should be okay.

I’ve had the car just over twelve months and it’s 3000 miles old of which I’ve done 1500ish but have had to do quite a lot of fettling!!
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:46 pm

I can recommend HT Racing / Dyno Solutions’s at Brands Hatch for rolling road set up for your Zetec. Spyder tend to use a base map on the Emerald ECU which is set up on an identical engine, but doesn’t always guarantee proper running or efficiency due to cam timing and other issues such as exhaust or inlet differences.

http://www.dyno-solutions.co.uk/ht-racing/4534805386

I had my car set up by them this week, this was belatedly due to an exhaust manifold change 3 years ago, amazing difference due to far quicker pickup from low revs and easier cruising in 5th, the car feels quicker from low revs vs my Golf GTD.
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Sat Jul 11, 2020 5:57 pm

Thanks for the tip. I’m up in Norfolk and only 12 miles from Emerald so was thinking of going to them?

I’m also trying to resolve a wheel wobble at 65mph, two wheel balances, swapped wheels front to back hasn’t cured but increase tyre pressure has helped a lot and I’m hoping the bushes may cure
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Sun Jul 12, 2020 7:58 am

That’s good, I hadn’t noticed your location. Emerald is the place to go, but does get very booked up, ask Andy Widnall to speak to them to fit you in if you are having difficulties getting a slot.

I assume you bought the car recently and not from Spyder? (Edit just read above, you bought it a year ago, low mileage, it would be strange to need bushes after such a short time)

Strangely, steering wheel wobble can be caused by the rear wheels not being in alignment, I have adjustable toe rear wishbones Which I had set up with 1 degree toe in ( overall). Adding a Europa spoiler also helps make the car feel solid over 60mph.

This can all add up to a bit of money, but is well worth it.
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Sun Jul 12, 2020 10:09 am

The car was built by a couple of friends up in Merseyside back in mid 00's.The history file shows Andy at Spyder did a lot of work on it as well, bodywork and trim it seems. It also seems to have been finished in a hurry, I think one of the guys pass away and the other probably lost his enthusiasm.

I bought the car from a dealer in Lancashire, it had been sold to a guy who posted a bit on here but seems to have traded it back pretty quickly. I suspect due to it not being properly sorted. I have put carpet in it, fixed a few bits and bobs and put some miles on it to get it in shape and know it's reliable. It has just flown through an MoT - advisory are the bushes.

The car has stood for long periods so I may have to change tyres but your point about the rear wheels does make sense as I can feel it through the seat as well...I'll get the rear toe looked at.

The rolling road graph I have shows 130bhp but I suspect a good session on the rollers would help liberate some more, what do you think?

It has original early seats in it which are just about okay but I'm toying with period style buckets with a headrest but can't make my mind up. Probably Cobra but am concerned about reports of them being err snug. I'm not huge but...

Thanks for your comments, very much appreciated :D
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Sun Jul 12, 2020 1:23 pm

Hi Gordy,
Thanks for the info, it’s good that you are completing the car and nice in a way that you have a connection with it’s history.

Engine:
Assuming 2:0 Zetec with standard cams and head you should get 140bhp on carburettors and up to 160 bhp on throttle bodies with Emerald type ECU. Throttle bodies will give better fuel economy as well.

Gearbox:
5 speed Ford MT75 Is most likely what you have, but there are cable clutch and hydraulic clutch variants. The hydraulic clutch is preferred as it’s stronger and most importantly puts the starter motor on the right hand side ( when viewing from the drivers seat) this allows fitting an updated exhaust manifold to get better ground clearance. The Spyder conversions from the noughties used the cable clutch gearbox which forced the route of the exhaust manifold to go beneath the removable crossmember which made it the lowest point at the front of the car and prone to grounding out.

Wheels and tyres:
Spyder used to fit 14”x6” wheels with 185/60/14 tyres which gives a diameter of 577mm this unfortunately adds to the perception that Spyder converted cars run too high. The original set up used 13” wheels and 175/82/13 tyres which gives a diameter of around 610mm That’s a huge 33mm difference which equals an increased gap of 17mm between the top of the tyre and the wheel arch when the suspension is set up correctly. The answer is to fit 185/65/14 tyres when you next change these have a much more acceptable 600mm diameter.

Seats:
Others have used Mk1 Jaguar XJS Seats, or mk2/mk3 MX5 seats, both patterns recline and tilt nicely and are narrow enough for the +2. Whatever you do, don’t be tempted to sell on your existing seats, the early +2 seats are quite rare now.

Keep me posted and I will try and help out with useful advice, there are quite a few other Zetec owners on here too.
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Sun Jul 12, 2020 4:23 pm

Thanks Alan,

Just to clarify I didn't know the guys who built it. I've re read my message and it reads that I did. My English O Level was a long time ago!

BHP sounds promising as I'm on throttle bodies. A trip up to Watton to see Emerald should be worth the effort (and its a cracking road from here).

The gearbox is a MT75 with a cable clutch but I have an odd arrangement where there's a hydraulic system to pull the cable... It works well despite being very odd.

I will certainly go for the bigger diameter wheels when they're changed. The exhaust is well acquainted with Tarmac! Do you have a recommendation for quick road use and the odd track day?

I will store the seats if and when they're changed.
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Mon Jul 13, 2020 6:28 am

...Bigger tyres!
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PostPost by: Spyder fan » Mon Jul 13, 2020 6:59 am

Hi Gordy,
I use these https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre/kumho-eco ... #292936096

Good grip wet or dry. Previous sets of tyres have been Yokohama A drive or C Drive, both good but not better than the kumhos

I used to run Yokohama AO48 for trackdays, fantastic grip, but noisy for road use, expensive hobby too, you can’t get the best out of them without race type seats, harnesses, brakes & suspension upgrades.
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Tue Jul 14, 2020 6:38 pm

Thanks Alan,

Tyre cost looks very reasonable - I have a rear engine Stuttgart machine that costs nearly four of those a corner!!
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PostPost by: gordy7 » Wed Jul 15, 2020 8:19 pm

Alan,

I'm planning to have the wheel alignment looked at once I've replaced the top damper bushes. What front toe in do you recommend?
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