My race project - The Proof
It is quite big
Approx 1800 x 1800 x 900mm
I see what you mean regarding it being a possible prototype. But, no, I didn't make it. However, quite a few holes are mine, along with the lightened bolts.
I have been asked by quite a few people where I got it from but couldn't remember their name. Finally discovered that they had gone out of business.
A flip front is neater and I don't have to find somewhere safe to stand it, especially at a normally windy Santa Pod I will, however, make it so it can be removed easily if and when required. I think that it will be a case of making it, cutting off the original, getting the new front in position and then working out how to hinge it
Approx 1800 x 1800 x 900mm
I see what you mean regarding it being a possible prototype. But, no, I didn't make it. However, quite a few holes are mine, along with the lightened bolts.
I have been asked by quite a few people where I got it from but couldn't remember their name. Finally discovered that they had gone out of business.
A flip front is neater and I don't have to find somewhere safe to stand it, especially at a normally windy Santa Pod I will, however, make it so it can be removed easily if and when required. I think that it will be a case of making it, cutting off the original, getting the new front in position and then working out how to hinge it
- stevebroad
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For front hinging ideas, you might want to look at an E type Jaguar. Simple two point mounting on a basic tubular frame, and the bushing parts are readily available.
Steve
Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow
Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow
Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
- bitsobrits
- Third Gear
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mbell wrote:For what not to do look at "project binky"...
I was tempted. However, the weight put me off
- stevebroad
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- Joined: 08 Mar 2004
bitsobrits wrote:For front hinging ideas, you might want to look at an E type Jaguar. Simple two point mounting on a basic tubular frame, and the bushing parts are readily available.
Good idea. A friend has a road and race E-types. I will ask him to take a few photos.
- stevebroad
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- Joined: 08 Mar 2004
Just checked out Binky No 19 (Terry Pratchet wasn't it?) - blimey - 7 3/4 hours for one bracket. Work of art but really.....
Steve - if you have a light weight flip front the top of it can catch the wind when it is open - it becomes quite a tall piece. Perhaps some carbon rope to restrain it?
Looks like there is a good one piece front on the modsports car that the guy is trying to sell on racecars direct. If you're flush, perhaps you could buy it, take a mould of the front and sell it on again. It has to be quicker than what Ive been through (albeit not cheap and I imagine potentially heavy)
How hot have you run up you're oven so far?
Cheers
Gavin
Steve - if you have a light weight flip front the top of it can catch the wind when it is open - it becomes quite a tall piece. Perhaps some carbon rope to restrain it?
Looks like there is a good one piece front on the modsports car that the guy is trying to sell on racecars direct. If you're flush, perhaps you could buy it, take a mould of the front and sell it on again. It has to be quicker than what Ive been through (albeit not cheap and I imagine potentially heavy)
How hot have you run up you're oven so far?
Cheers
Gavin
One day I'll actually finish - completely - one day....
-
gav - Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 26 Jan 2004
gav wrote:Just checked out Binky No 19 (Terry Pratchet wasn't it?) - blimey - 7 3/4 hours for one bracket. Work of art but really.....
Steve - if you have a light weight flip front the top of it can catch the wind when it is open - it becomes quite a tall piece. Perhaps some carbon rope to restrain it?
Looks like there is a good one piece front on the modsports car that the guy is trying to sell on racecars direct. If you're flush, perhaps you could buy it, take a mould of the front and sell it on again. It has to be quicker than what Ive been through (albeit not cheap and I imagine potentially heavy)
How hot have you run up you're oven so far?
Cheers
Gavin
Death's Horse, but sometimes 'borrowed' by Susan, his grand daughter
It will have quick release hinges so can be put somewhere safe if windy.
Had a look but can't find it. I haven't been on here for a while so I have only just seen your post. Have you got a link to it?
Oven has been up to 140 deg C with no issues.
How goes with your project?
Steve
- stevebroad
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At last - some progress to report. I ended up making a plug for the front much like yours Steve but with Chinese eyes blended in. Just about to start on the bracketry to hold it and the rad/cooler. Still have the bonnet to complete but this is much more manageable.
I had it made by specialists who were very gracious by not laughing at the plug I'd made. They aligned everything properly and made a proper mould to cover eventualities
Fuel tank bracket now made (photos to follow) and nearly ready to permanently fit. Once complete, I'll have the tank made.
Also made the cut out in the sill for the exhaust
Drive shafts made and just need fitting. Anti roll bars worked out and need fabricating. Dash made and laid out - will cut out instrument holes, fill with instruments and sit inside making brum noises - all very satisfying.
Main priority at present is to complete bodywork and the last of the welding - then its paint and the final install.
I'm getting quite excited now.....
I had it made by specialists who were very gracious by not laughing at the plug I'd made. They aligned everything properly and made a proper mould to cover eventualities
Fuel tank bracket now made (photos to follow) and nearly ready to permanently fit. Once complete, I'll have the tank made.
Also made the cut out in the sill for the exhaust
Drive shafts made and just need fitting. Anti roll bars worked out and need fabricating. Dash made and laid out - will cut out instrument holes, fill with instruments and sit inside making brum noises - all very satisfying.
Main priority at present is to complete bodywork and the last of the welding - then its paint and the final install.
I'm getting quite excited now.....
One day I'll actually finish - completely - one day....
-
gav - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 538
- Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Gav
Which back uprights did you end up using ?,
I've a project in the planning stages,
Owned a modsports car in the past, 2L BDG, Quaiffe 6 speed sequential, believe it was the one built before black bullet, March suspension front and rear. Unfortunately had to part with the car which is now being finished by Colin Calder
I want to use something more modern. Looked at using Caterham CSR rears but v expensive and slightly different setup
Your chassis looks like a Spyder spaceframe, did you use original mounting points ?, I remember in an early Steve Broad post that there may be an issue with spyder rear geometry, certainly top wishbone is short in comparison with lower, perhaps Steve will comment
Car looks great, PaulJ
Which back uprights did you end up using ?,
I've a project in the planning stages,
Owned a modsports car in the past, 2L BDG, Quaiffe 6 speed sequential, believe it was the one built before black bullet, March suspension front and rear. Unfortunately had to part with the car which is now being finished by Colin Calder
I want to use something more modern. Looked at using Caterham CSR rears but v expensive and slightly different setup
Your chassis looks like a Spyder spaceframe, did you use original mounting points ?, I remember in an early Steve Broad post that there may be an issue with spyder rear geometry, certainly top wishbone is short in comparison with lower, perhaps Steve will comment
Car looks great, PaulJ
- PaulJ
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- Joined: 24 Apr 2018
Hi Paul
I ended up using Spyder's RSC upright (the fabricated metal one) because I wanted a longer damper than would otherwise fit. I am using Spyder's wishbones but I am running the car lower than standard and with limited suspension travel and am not expecting too many problems. If it doesn't work out, I will switch to the Westfield rear wishbone.
I have a Spyder RSC set up on my roadgoing Elan in which I do compete every now and again and I have never had a problem with it.
My plan is to use a light rear anti roll bar and softer springs rather than full blown modsports solution. The car was running 250 and 350 lb springs which I think might have made it a little skittish.
When I started the project there was talk of space frame cars being banned so I opted for a conventional chassis with strengthened pick ups for the cage - hence the Spyder space frame. If I ditch the chassis, I will save a significant amount of weight but I don't have the cash to pay the MSA for a design certificate (which will be thousands) and I am no engineer.
I think some future development work will include the introduction of an F3 or F3000 front end with better designed wishbones but one step at a time.
Do you have any pictures of your old car - I'd love to see some of the solutions you came up with - particularly suspension.
Thanks
Gavin
I ended up using Spyder's RSC upright (the fabricated metal one) because I wanted a longer damper than would otherwise fit. I am using Spyder's wishbones but I am running the car lower than standard and with limited suspension travel and am not expecting too many problems. If it doesn't work out, I will switch to the Westfield rear wishbone.
I have a Spyder RSC set up on my roadgoing Elan in which I do compete every now and again and I have never had a problem with it.
My plan is to use a light rear anti roll bar and softer springs rather than full blown modsports solution. The car was running 250 and 350 lb springs which I think might have made it a little skittish.
When I started the project there was talk of space frame cars being banned so I opted for a conventional chassis with strengthened pick ups for the cage - hence the Spyder space frame. If I ditch the chassis, I will save a significant amount of weight but I don't have the cash to pay the MSA for a design certificate (which will be thousands) and I am no engineer.
I think some future development work will include the introduction of an F3 or F3000 front end with better designed wishbones but one step at a time.
Do you have any pictures of your old car - I'd love to see some of the solutions you came up with - particularly suspension.
Thanks
Gavin
One day I'll actually finish - completely - one day....
-
gav - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 538
- Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Morning
I have a set of the spyder uprights but they looked different, Are yours the ones for the standard or ford rear hubs ?
My car used the full March F3 setup, double wishbone front, trailing arm rear with top and bottom links, very adjustable. I do have some pics and will try to locate them, looked identical to black bullit (now red) with removable front but modified to accommodate wider rubber
Spyder RSC, yip there are lots of them out there if there was some big issue then I'm sure there would have been things said, wishbone length looks to be a compromise to fit under standard body, longer suspension travel will give bigger camber changes v's the original setup
Paul
I have a set of the spyder uprights but they looked different, Are yours the ones for the standard or ford rear hubs ?
My car used the full March F3 setup, double wishbone front, trailing arm rear with top and bottom links, very adjustable. I do have some pics and will try to locate them, looked identical to black bullit (now red) with removable front but modified to accommodate wider rubber
Spyder RSC, yip there are lots of them out there if there was some big issue then I'm sure there would have been things said, wishbone length looks to be a compromise to fit under standard body, longer suspension travel will give bigger camber changes v's the original setup
Paul
- PaulJ
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