My Electronic Ignition & Injector TB Project
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Post by: crypto » Sat Mar 03, 2018 6:22 pm
Haven't done a lot in the meantime (to cold in the garage 
) so just posting some pictures.
The filter-pump-regulator assembly.
The entire thing is going to be placed in the space at the lower right hand side of the boot.
I had to replace the existing fuel line too, everything is no 8mm diameter (from pump to injectors).
Tests will show if I have to replace the suction pipe in the tank to a bigger diameter too...
) so just posting some pictures.
I had to replace the existing fuel line too, everything is no 8mm diameter (from pump to injectors).
Tests will show if I have to replace the suction pipe in the tank to a bigger diameter too...
The really good drivers have the bugs on the side windows (cit. Walter R?hrl)
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Post by: crypto » Tue Mar 26, 2019 9:58 pm
My Injection project has now almost come to an end and I'm very pleased how it is running. Most of the tuning has been done (while the engine is warm). But during cranking, cold starting (minus degrees) and cold running there is still a room for improvement...
Attached is a parts list of most components I acquired, with source and price to give an indication what it costs me. You will notice that many parts where sourced form Ebay suppliers from Europe and far East. None of the parts have given me troubles except the TP-sensors. Those I have chosen are really rubbish (I have used 3 in the meantime) and will replace this rubbish one with a hall sensor type which should last forever
Attached is a parts list of most components I acquired, with source and price to give an indication what it costs me. You will notice that many parts where sourced form Ebay suppliers from Europe and far East. None of the parts have given me troubles except the TP-sensors. Those I have chosen are really rubbish (I have used 3 in the meantime) and will replace this rubbish one with a hall sensor type which should last forever
Parts-List.pdf- Injection conversion part list
- (36.22 KiB) Downloaded 688 times
Last edited by crypto on Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:43 pm, edited 2 times in total.
The really good drivers have the bugs on the side windows (cit. Walter R?hrl)
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crypto - Second Gear
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Post by: john.p.clegg » Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:36 pm
A genuine Bosch HP Pump for ?19.00 ??
John
John
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Post by: john.p.clegg » Tue Mar 26, 2019 10:46 pm
P.S.
With the returnless system be prepared for fuel vaporisation causing rough running ( got the T-shirt ).
John
With the returnless system be prepared for fuel vaporisation causing rough running ( got the T-shirt ).
John
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Post by: Andy8421 » Wed Mar 27, 2019 6:27 am
John,
Firstly, I am in awe at the quality of your engineering. Excellent job.
Like others on this thread, I also have the T-shirt, and I would question your choice of returnless. You questioned earlier in the thread the choice of plastic pipe for returnless systems, my guess would be that this is to reduce heat transfer into the fuel during its journey to the injectors - and gives some idea of the problems you are likely to face with vapourisation.
The problem is most likely to manifest itself at tickover on a hot day in traffic, when the engine will just stop. The fuel flow rate will be at its lowest and provide little cooling, and under bonnet temperatures the highest.
I like your PWM pump, but for the same effort it might have been better just to run an additional pipe?
Firstly, I am in awe at the quality of your engineering. Excellent job.
Like others on this thread, I also have the T-shirt, and I would question your choice of returnless. You questioned earlier in the thread the choice of plastic pipe for returnless systems, my guess would be that this is to reduce heat transfer into the fuel during its journey to the injectors - and gives some idea of the problems you are likely to face with vapourisation.
The problem is most likely to manifest itself at tickover on a hot day in traffic, when the engine will just stop. The fuel flow rate will be at its lowest and provide little cooling, and under bonnet temperatures the highest.
I like your PWM pump, but for the same effort it might have been better just to run an additional pipe?
68 Elan S3 HSCC Roadsports spec
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
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Post by: crypto » Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:25 am
John, this is not an original Bosch fuel pump , but physical and electrical equivalent.
Regarding fuel vaporisation, I can assure that it is not a problem. At least not in my setup, how I drive and the latitude where I live. The last summer was quite hot here and she run faultless even in temperatures over 35 degrees.
If I had good access to the chassis then I would have added a return line. As it is now, she gets the "coolest" fuel it can be, even the pump is running at so low speeds (and quiet) that it doesn't heat up the fuel. Because fuel pressure is constantly 3.5 bar in the rails, the ECU is set to correct manifold pressure difference.
, but physical and electrical equivalent.Regarding fuel vaporisation, I can assure that it is not a problem. At least not in my setup, how I drive and the latitude where I live. The last summer was quite hot here and she run faultless even in temperatures over 35 degrees.
If I had good access to the chassis then I would have added a return line. As it is now, she gets the "coolest" fuel it can be, even the pump is running at so low speeds (and quiet) that it doesn't heat up the fuel. Because fuel pressure is constantly 3.5 bar in the rails, the ECU is set to correct manifold pressure difference.
Last edited by crypto on Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
The really good drivers have the bugs on the side windows (cit. Walter R?hrl)
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Post by: john.p.clegg » Wed Mar 27, 2019 7:38 am
"this is not an original Bosch fuel pump , but physical and electrical equivalent." ,
Yes,I had one of those, there was no filter in the inlet and it lasted 6 months..., carry a spare..
John
, but physical and electrical equivalent." , Yes,I had one of those, there was no filter in the inlet and it lasted 6 months..., carry a spare..
John
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Post by: crypto » Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:24 am
Yes good idea 
, there is only sieve filter at inlet. But I added a big filter at the input (see pic above). Lets see how long it lasts, maybe longer if its not on full power all the time ? P.
, there is only sieve filter at inlet. But I added a big filter at the input (see pic above). Lets see how long it lasts, maybe longer if its not on full power all the time ? P.The really good drivers have the bugs on the side windows (cit. Walter R?hrl)
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crypto - Second Gear
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Post by: john.p.clegg » Wed Mar 27, 2019 8:45 am
Well done..
John
John
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Post by: crypto » Sat Apr 06, 2019 7:49 pm
As mentioned before, my ebay TPS-ensor needed replacement by a quality product. But instead investing money for a 60 ? resistor sensor, I decided to go for magnetic hall-sensor product. Unfortunately I was unable to source one that fits my throttle bodies and uses the connector I already have on the cable side.
My local electronic parts shop had the RFD-4000 from Novotechnik on stock. A magnet is also required that fits on the throttle body shaft. (total about 50 ?)
https://www.novotechnik.de/uploads/tx_e ... 708_01.pdf
This is how it looks like without and with sensor attached.
My local electronic parts shop had the RFD-4000 from Novotechnik on stock. A magnet is also required that fits on the throttle body shaft. (total about 50 ?)
https://www.novotechnik.de/uploads/tx_e ... 708_01.pdf
This is how it looks like without and with sensor attached.
- TPS magnetic sensor
- TPS magnetic sensor
The really good drivers have the bugs on the side windows (cit. Walter R?hrl)
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crypto - Second Gear
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- Joined: 20 Apr 2014
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