Front brake cooling

[ncm]

I wanted to keep knock on wheels rather than change hubs uprights etc. Ventilated discs fitted to existing uprights with modified type 16 calipers seems the simplest way to get brakes with better cooling, just need to work out the right combination of parts and what if any machining is required to get it all working.

Simon, as I suspect you've already sussed out, the replacement brake kits rarely fit inside the original wheels even on a Triumph.
I set off on this course a while ago but never got to the point of fitting it to the car as my friendly machinist at work left before it was finished... Working from memory ( never a good idea ) the modified calipers just cleared the hubs with the mounting spacers supplied in the kit, there was clearance with a standard steel wheel and I think it just cleared the inside of my PM supplied (replica) +2 alloys.
The disc to try is from a 2.8i Capri. The mounting holes require re-drilling (we made a jig using an old standard disc) . When assembled to the upright there is reduced clearance to the steering arm and therefore the tre gaitor. The plan was to machine the disc mounting face of the hub to move the disc slightly further into the wheel so as to minimise the amount of shimming to the steering arm.

Brian.

[Bigbaldybloke]

Thanks for that info Brian

I've got the 14" Minilte wheels so hopefully clearance shouldn't be a big issue. I've bought a spare front hub to experiment on and have been looking at what Rimmer Bros and Canley offer for uprated brakes on TR's, Vitesse and GT6. I also have the problem that with the Minilite wheels the knock on spinner bottoms out on the thread about 1-2 mm before the nut is tight. Currently looking into options, one is to talk to Spyder who supplied the wheels about 20 years ago (I just hadn't got around to fitting them!) the other option is to put them in my lathe and machine about 3mm off the thread on the hub so that the spinner doesn't bottom out on the thread.
Don't really want to machine the hubs so hoping Spyder can help with a thicker adaptor plate that goes between the spinner and the wheel, the ones originally supplied are only about 3mm thick so if they can provide 6mm thick ones thats the problem solved much easier than removing and machining all four hubs.

Just another little challenge to solve!

Cheers
Simon

[nmauduit]

I also have the problem that with the Minilite wheels the knock on spinner bottoms out on the thread about 1-2 mm before the nut is tight.

a third option (if money is no object ) would be to fit the street version of the alloy spinners, which are threaded through... with these you add lightness twice (including to your wallet over ?100 +VAT each) but what an elegant solution !

[Bigbaldybloke]

That's a good thought, I have new after market spinners, ready to use with the Minilite wheels, but I also have my original ones which have been well hammered, I could machine off the end of these, clean them up and get them rechromed and sell the as new spinners on again! Would need some kind of cap to go in the end of the hub and cover up the end of the axle, nut and split pin.

Hmmm, what to do - decisions decisions!

Cheers

Simon