T9 into a +2
8 posts
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Gidday,
Have aquired a T9 to fit our +2.
Basically to0 slack to puruse the archives for previuos conversions.
I assume a bloke uses the original Bellhousing and an adaptor plate to mate the T9.
A concentric clutch release will be used.
I assume the extension housing remote is cut to the required length an re-frabricated.
Does anyone have the measurement from the back of the Cast Iron case to the centre position of the
the gear lever hole to bring it up the in the original position.
Thanks,
Les.
Have aquired a T9 to fit our +2.
Basically to0 slack to puruse the archives for previuos conversions.
I assume a bloke uses the original Bellhousing and an adaptor plate to mate the T9.
A concentric clutch release will be used.
I assume the extension housing remote is cut to the required length an re-frabricated.
Does anyone have the measurement from the back of the Cast Iron case to the centre position of the
the gear lever hole to bring it up the in the original position.
Thanks,
Les.
- lotuselanman
- Second Gear
- Posts: 86
- Joined: 20 Jul 2004
Gidday
Well that a flood of replies wasn't Thanks,
Les.
Well that a flood of replies wasn't Thanks,
Les.
- lotuselanman
- Second Gear
- Posts: 86
- Joined: 20 Jul 2004
Gidday,
Will re-write this.
Well that was a flood of replies wasn't it !!
That's better.
Thanks,
Les.
Will re-write this.
Well that was a flood of replies wasn't it !!
That's better.
Thanks,
Les.
- lotuselanman
- Second Gear
- Posts: 86
- Joined: 20 Jul 2004
Not surprised you haven't had many replies when all you've got to do is search the archive for T9...
Anyway, here's a starter for 10:
elan-plus-f13/conversion-t19444.html
Anyway, here's a starter for 10:
elan-plus-f13/conversion-t19444.html
-
Craig Elliott - Third Gear
- Posts: 309
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Les,
there are loads of posts on the subject, I have one in my +2.
Bell housing you have 3 options, you can buy off the shelf housings at a price, make an adaptor as you say (not sure it the input shaft is any longer than the standard one though), or I used a Left hand drive sierra bell housing which puts the starter in the right place. I used a concentric slave which works fine.
For the gear lever I have cut and re-inforced another hole further back in the chassis with the lever cranked forward this works fine. If you don't want to do this you could modify the extension housing as you suggest but it's not easy.
kevin
there are loads of posts on the subject, I have one in my +2.
Bell housing you have 3 options, you can buy off the shelf housings at a price, make an adaptor as you say (not sure it the input shaft is any longer than the standard one though), or I used a Left hand drive sierra bell housing which puts the starter in the right place. I used a concentric slave which works fine.
For the gear lever I have cut and re-inforced another hole further back in the chassis with the lever cranked forward this works fine. If you don't want to do this you could modify the extension housing as you suggest but it's not easy.
kevin
- kstrutt11
- Third Gear
- Posts: 316
- Joined: 27 Jun 2007
Just finished installing a modified T9 into my +2, I did review the archives and its well worth the effort. There is a lot of work involved luckily I have access to machine tools without which it would have been impossible to modify the box in way I did.
In summary I used a T9 from a Sierra with standard input shaft length, mechanical speedo drive and the later (I think) selector bias mechanism.
I moved the gear lever forward by approx 8", fitted a Mondeo concentric clutch and used an alloy bell housing from Burton's to directly mate the twin cam and T9. The bell housing has two starter positions I used the LH one for the clutch hydraulic pipes.
The propshaft needed to be longer and required a diffent spline the match the T9 output shaft.
I used the standard A/V mount and reversed the 4 speed mounting bracket and it stood off the chassis by approx 15mm, final adjustment by slotting the mounting holes.
The installation was very tight in the chassis tunnel and some small but careful trimming and reinforcing of the chassis was needed.
To achieve the gear lever re-position, the lever mount was cut from the end of the tail housing and welded as far forward as it would go on the tail housing, the selector crank was redesigned and the bias mechanism now sits behind the gear lever and an extension welded to the tail housing the accomodate it. In my case the welding distorted the housing so the propshaft bearing housing was cut off and a new one welded on to restore the alignment.
The gear lever itself was modified to accept an extension to suit the gear knob I had chosen.
I did not modify the tunnel top but made a new one from fibreglass with the gear lever aperture suitable placed and its now awaiting trimming.
The whole project took me the best part of a year working on it as and when I could, admittedly I have only done a nominal mileage with it since but I am very pleased with the results.
In summary I used a T9 from a Sierra with standard input shaft length, mechanical speedo drive and the later (I think) selector bias mechanism.
I moved the gear lever forward by approx 8", fitted a Mondeo concentric clutch and used an alloy bell housing from Burton's to directly mate the twin cam and T9. The bell housing has two starter positions I used the LH one for the clutch hydraulic pipes.
The propshaft needed to be longer and required a diffent spline the match the T9 output shaft.
I used the standard A/V mount and reversed the 4 speed mounting bracket and it stood off the chassis by approx 15mm, final adjustment by slotting the mounting holes.
The installation was very tight in the chassis tunnel and some small but careful trimming and reinforcing of the chassis was needed.
To achieve the gear lever re-position, the lever mount was cut from the end of the tail housing and welded as far forward as it would go on the tail housing, the selector crank was redesigned and the bias mechanism now sits behind the gear lever and an extension welded to the tail housing the accomodate it. In my case the welding distorted the housing so the propshaft bearing housing was cut off and a new one welded on to restore the alignment.
The gear lever itself was modified to accept an extension to suit the gear knob I had chosen.
I did not modify the tunnel top but made a new one from fibreglass with the gear lever aperture suitable placed and its now awaiting trimming.
The whole project took me the best part of a year working on it as and when I could, admittedly I have only done a nominal mileage with it since but I am very pleased with the results.
Richard
- rjaxe
- Second Gear
- Posts: 196
- Joined: 04 Dec 2006
Greg Z, the ratios are 3.65,1.97,1.37,1.0,& 0.82 and I am running with a 3.54 Diff. The standard ratios for the 4 speed are 2.972, 2.009,1.396 & 1.0. So 1st is quite a bit lower than the 4 speed but I found that with the 3.54 diff the 4 speed 1st was just that bit too high for comfortable driving in traffic, the lower 5 speed ratio will be better for my road use. There are ratio options around have a look at an informative article entitled "Taking the Fifth" by Kim Henson this gives more detail.
Richard
- rjaxe
- Second Gear
- Posts: 196
- Joined: 04 Dec 2006
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