1966 Elan S2
hi
nice job on the Car i ask for a photo of the front bumper i am fitting mine and dont know what the spacing is suppose to be thanks evan and good luck on the car
nice job on the Car i ask for a photo of the front bumper i am fitting mine and dont know what the spacing is suppose to be thanks evan and good luck on the car
- evanlotus
- First Gear
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 02 Dec 2022
- Location: ottsville pa
My front bumper is not in the best shape but I’ll take a couple of photos tomorrow. Is there any specific area you are interested in?
Steve
Steve
- StephenT
- First Gear
- Posts: 49
- Joined: 09 May 2022
- Location: Southern California
thank you
just trying to figure out what the spaceing is like. i have a nos bumper that has never been mounted so i dont want to miss fit it. you are going to be amazed when you see how well these cars handle. i have a 2022 supra and i enjoy the lotus more. The supra is just another high horsepower nanny maid car. nothing pure about it
thanks evan
just trying to figure out what the spaceing is like. i have a nos bumper that has never been mounted so i dont want to miss fit it. you are going to be amazed when you see how well these cars handle. i have a 2022 supra and i enjoy the lotus more. The supra is just another high horsepower nanny maid car. nothing pure about it
thanks evan
- evanlotus
- First Gear
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 02 Dec 2022
- Location: ottsville pa
Has anyone seen this before?
It’s well made for a bodge, but to do what? Also, I assume the support and extension of the lower screen seal is to keep water out of the door gap. Given that in my ownership of this car it is very unlikely to ever see rain again, I think the seal should probably be cut at the shut line.
Any thoughts anyone?
Ian
It’s well made for a bodge, but to do what? Also, I assume the support and extension of the lower screen seal is to keep water out of the door gap. Given that in my ownership of this car it is very unlikely to ever see rain again, I think the seal should probably be cut at the shut line.
Any thoughts anyone?
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 215
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
- Location: Orange County, USA
Forgive me, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at with that part.
On the S3 and the Coupes there's a strip of foam glued to the underside of the door opening from the bottom of the drip rail outside the weatherstrip in the door opening. It keeps the water from flowing back under the opening and filling the footwell, including when you wash the car.
On the S3 and the Coupes there's a strip of foam glued to the underside of the door opening from the bottom of the drip rail outside the weatherstrip in the door opening. It keeps the water from flowing back under the opening and filling the footwell, including when you wash the car.
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1458
- Joined: 26 Sep 2003
- Location: San Francisco Bay Area, California
Ianashdown wrote:Has anyone seen this before?
It’s well made for a bodge, but to do what? Also, I assume the support and extension of the lower screen seal is to keep water out of the door gap. Given that in my ownership of this car it is very unlikely to ever see rain again, I think the seal should probably be cut at the shut line.
Any thoughts anyone?
Ian
It's a factory fitting. Usually there is a flap of rubber underneath, but in your case it seems to have rotted away. I'll post photos over the next couple of days.
S2's had lots of components that tried to form a door weather seal, they didn't work.
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Mazzini - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2286
- Joined: 11 Dec 2010
- Location: NE UK
I agree with factory tweak to try to stems water ingress, my S2 and the S2 26 also had them!
- vstibbard
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 921
- Joined: 22 Jul 2008
- Location: Sydney, Australia
Here’s a pic of them fitted to my ‘65 S3
The rubber strip is like a’T’ with the cross piece a circle rather than straight, if you see what I mean
The rubber strip is like a’T’ with the cross piece a circle rather than straight, if you see what I mean
1965 Elan S2 (26/4726)
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
- Geoffers71
- Third Gear
- Posts: 437
- Joined: 06 Feb 2014
- Location: Plymouth, England
Some more pictures for you. This is my attempt at recreating this rubber 'seal'
I ended up using a seal that was cloth based, somehow impregnated with rubber. I tried a rubber seal but the rubber was too think to trap under the aluminium / aluminum part. I can't find it on the Woolies website (UK), but I'm sure that's where I got it.
The lower window seal on your car is correct. If you want to keep it original it does goes past the door shut.
I've put lots of videos of my reassembly of my S2 on YouTube. (I'm not self promoting it, I don't make money from it). I did the videos for anyone who might find it useful or interesting.
Here's a link to the playlist:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... 9WdRbmy6rK
Enjoy your project, I loved doing mine.
Paul
I ended up using a seal that was cloth based, somehow impregnated with rubber. I tried a rubber seal but the rubber was too think to trap under the aluminium / aluminum part. I can't find it on the Woolies website (UK), but I'm sure that's where I got it.
The lower window seal on your car is correct. If you want to keep it original it does goes past the door shut.
I've put lots of videos of my reassembly of my S2 on YouTube. (I'm not self promoting it, I don't make money from it). I did the videos for anyone who might find it useful or interesting.
Here's a link to the playlist:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... 9WdRbmy6rK
Enjoy your project, I loved doing mine.
Paul
66 Elan S2
- PaulH
- Second Gear
- Posts: 136
- Joined: 08 Apr 2009
- Location: Derbyshire, UK
Ianashdown wrote:Has anyone seen this before?
It’s well made for a bodge, but to do what? Also, I assume the support and extension of the lower screen seal is to keep water out of the door gap. Given that in my ownership of this car it is very unlikely to ever see rain again, I think the seal should probably be cut at the shut line.
Any thoughts anyone?
Ian
Hi
look in here
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=38821&p=284213#p284213
Urs
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ElanDNA - Second Gear
- Posts: 132
- Joined: 31 Jan 2017
- Location: Switzerland
It’s the details like this and the depth of knowledge that make this site such a wonderful resource!
These parts were made way to well compared to everything else the DPO’s had put on this car, so I had a suspicion that they might be OE.
Thank you,
Ian
These parts were made way to well compared to everything else the DPO’s had put on this car, so I had a suspicion that they might be OE.
Thank you,
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 215
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
- Location: Orange County, USA
thanks for the pics. to bad that you did not live closer i have all the materials to due the fiberglass work. not worth shipping.
- evanlotus
- First Gear
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 02 Dec 2022
- Location: ottsville pa
A quick progress update!
I removed the rear carb today, it’s really rough but I believe original to the car. The carbs will one of the first things I send out for re-conditioning. I hope the surface can be recovered to a reasonable condition. The forward carb was obviously removed and stored a long time ago and it’s in good shape. It’ll be odd to have the carbs not looking alike! Someone was really taking the piss with the access to that rear lower attachment nut! OMG!
With a bit better access to the chassis rail I went Chassis Number hunting again. Eventually I found it! It’s very hard to read, but it ‘sort-of’ confirms that this is the original chassis, I think.
Here is the record from Lotus.
Here is the number on the Chassis.
I see US66 26/487
What do we think? I think it’s original and correct, but . . .
If there is agreement that this is the original chassis, I have already confirmed the engine and body numbers, the head is yet to be confirmed, then I do indeed have a ‘Numbers Matching’ car. Very cool
I also put some oil down the plug holes, tomorrow I might see it I can turn the engine over.
Every day a little bit closer!
Ian
I removed the rear carb today, it’s really rough but I believe original to the car. The carbs will one of the first things I send out for re-conditioning. I hope the surface can be recovered to a reasonable condition. The forward carb was obviously removed and stored a long time ago and it’s in good shape. It’ll be odd to have the carbs not looking alike! Someone was really taking the piss with the access to that rear lower attachment nut! OMG!
With a bit better access to the chassis rail I went Chassis Number hunting again. Eventually I found it! It’s very hard to read, but it ‘sort-of’ confirms that this is the original chassis, I think.
Here is the record from Lotus.
Here is the number on the Chassis.
I see US66 26/487
What do we think? I think it’s original and correct, but . . .
If there is agreement that this is the original chassis, I have already confirmed the engine and body numbers, the head is yet to be confirmed, then I do indeed have a ‘Numbers Matching’ car. Very cool
I also put some oil down the plug holes, tomorrow I might see it I can turn the engine over.
Every day a little bit closer!
Ian
- Ianashdown
- Second Gear
- Posts: 215
- Joined: 14 Oct 2022
- Location: Orange County, USA
Here is my chassis stamping. I think you might find a “9” after the “487” if the clean it up a little more. I think you have the original chassis.
Steve
Steve
- StephenT
- First Gear
- Posts: 49
- Joined: 09 May 2022
- Location: Southern California
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