67 Elan

[Chuck Nukem]

Hi Frankster,

I used the factory spec of 45-50 ft lbs for the nut which holds the damper.

I ordered the special peg drive tool to tighten the top of the tube, but I ended up going for snug with a plumbers wrench. I sent a pic to TTR because I was concerned it did not bottom all the way on the tube, but he it looked fine.

I did order the different spring perches for the smaller diameter springs from TTR.

I don't think there is anything which is torqued that high. I believe the rear hub is the highest torqued fastener you should have to remove for this job and it is 100-100 ft lbs.

Veg is correct if you ordered it to be shipped to the states you should not have to pay VAT too.

[Mazzini]

I love your S3, I guess because it reminds me of my first Elan.

Off the top of my head I think the rear hubs go up to 135 ft lbs, but I don't have a workshop manual to hand. I think KO hubs are even tighter.

[Chuck Nukem]

Thanks Mazzini. Here's the site I used https://duarte.vg/lotuselan/Section%200%20Intoduction.PDF

Unfortunately the car did undergo a bit of misfortune on our trip. I hadn't got round to posting it yet, but there was a slight coolant spray out of the overflow bottle which began to happen while on extended drives.

Upon closer inspection there is a slight escape of combustion gas in to the cooling system...After removing the valve cover it appears there are some cracks in the head where it is clamped by the studs. I checked the torque and they seem to be low. I am afraid to retorque with the cracks.

The car still drives fine, and there is no noticeable leaking of coolant in to the combustion chamber. This summer I plan to pull the head and machine counterbores in to it. I will turn some steel liners in which to spread the load better and hopefully that will resolve the problem. I plan to check the hardness while I am there. It may be that this head needs some additional attention.

All part of the fun...

[512BB]

I think you are on the right track there Chuck. I took a twin cam head to a brilliant engineer I know, which was exhibiting exactly the same cracks as your head, and he suggested the same solution, only with top hats to the sleeves.

Good luck with it.

Leslie

[Chuck Nukem]

Yes that is precisely my plan! I will show pics of the process along the way.

[Mazzini]

You were absolutely right about the torque figures. I recently fitted a pair of TTR rear driveshafts to my Sprint and the torque figure for those is 130 ft lbs and 160 ft lbs for competition cars.

[alan.barker]

Tonight I changed my original starter out with the RD high torque unit. I highly recommend the unit as it transformed starting my car in to a reliable non event! It had gotten to the point that the starter would stick when hot and I would have to rock the car back and forth in gear to unstick it every time.

Chuck,
don't forget that Starter has lasted 50 years so not bad.
On my Sprint i fitted a new Bendix and fitted a new Bush in the Starter End Plate very cheap. So now good for another 50 years lol
Alan

[rgh0]

Cracks like that accompanied by recession of the head bolt generally indicate the head is too soft. if the head bolts have not recessed then you may be OK.

Also have a close look at the head gasket face to see if the fire ring is embedding in the head face.

cheers
Rohan

[Chuck Nukem]

Cracks like that accompanied by recession of the head bolt generally indicate the head is too soft. if the head bolts have not recessed then you may be OK.

Also have a close look at the head gasket face to see if the fire ring is embedding in the head face.

cheers
Rohan

I will be sure to check. Have you had any luck heat treating soft heads to bring them back in to service?

[rgh0]

I have investigated it but the cost has been such that I have always gone down other routes. All the sleeves and seats and guides need to be removed and replaced as the plain aluminium head needs to go into the furnace. Also a risk of the head distorting so a couple of support plates to bolt through the head are needed to ensure it stays as flat as possible. The head treatment itself is not that expensive if you can find a local place with experience in this sort of work but the specialist machining to refit all the components is unless you can do it yourself which you may have the tools to do !!

I still have a soft Weber head here that is otherwise in perfect condition and one day I may give it a try if I ever run out of spare heads and dont want to pay the new head price.

cheers
Rohan