Lifting Elan on 2 post lift

[Freddie49]

Hi All,

I am currently restoring my Dad's 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint that has been off the road for 30 years. I have finished work on the engine - refurbished Webers, new fuel pump and fuel system in general etc etc.

Now its time to work on the suspension, starting with the rear of the car. With it being off the road for so long all suspension rubber will need to be replaced and I will be fitting the coveted CV driveshafts from Sue.

I am looking to buy a two post lift for the Elan and other restorations. My question is, how is everyone putting their cars on a two post lift? I know there has been previous discussions about people suggesting lifting/ jacking from behind/ infront of the wheel arches on the fibreglass, but I am by no way inclined to do that, for obvious reasons. So how are people lifting the car on the chassis so that it is stable to work on? Pictures or descriptions would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Freddie

[abstamaria]

I use a two-post lift for my Series 4, Freddie. The lift pads go underneath the sill sections Immediately before the rear and front wheels. It’s a bit scary at first because one would think the frame will drop off, but apparently that’s how it’s done in the specialist shops.

Andres

[Freddie49]

Hi Andres,

Thank you for the reply I will keep that in mind.

Freddie

[HCA]

[Panda]

I lift mine same as Andres and so far no problems. I am thinking of designing a metal frame to go from side to side under the chassis as well and resting on the hoist arms.

By the way Andres, how did you get that beautiful high gloss finish on your garage floor?

Alan P

[abstamaria]

That seems a good idea, Alan. That will provide additional peace of mind.

The floor is epoxy, poured very carefully so it is perfectly flat and smooth. It was then overlaid with a coating, polyurethane I think, as epoxy tends to yellow.

I went to the garage and took a photo of my rollcab on the floor to give you an idea. Tile would be a good alternative.

Andres

[Certified Lotus]

I built square wooden “platform boxes” and glued a rubber pad on the top to fit over the lift points at the end of each lift arm. This allows for a larger support area on the fiberglass so you distribute the load. I’ve completed three Elan and one Europa restoration without any issues.

My shop floor is a little dirtier than most, but a lot of Restoration work goes on here With all the associated oil spills/leaks to prove it. You should note that when the cars leave my shop they don’t leak anymore

[abstamaria]

Here’s the Lotus on the lift , but from another angle. My concern, of course, has been that the heaviest part of the car - the chassis with the suspension, gearbox, motor, etc.- isn’t supported by the lift pads and is hanging on through bolts screwed into bobbins in fibreglass. But apparently the experience is that that is ok.

Andres

[abstamaria]

On the subject of the floor , the shop is very much a hobby and work there is relaxed, although we did do three ground-up restorations.

It does get dirty and has to cope with grease, oil, and fluid spills, as seen here!

[abstamaria]

The good thing is that the floor cleans up easily. I would recommend a white floor always. That makes it so much easier to find dropped washers, etc. I hope this gives you some ideas.

Andres

[Certified Lotus]

Andres, I am envious of your shop “cleanliness” and spotless floor. The next time I move and build a new garage I’m going to replicate what you have done.

My only concern is what do I do with all my years of memorabilia hanging on the walls......

[Freddie49]

Thank you Alan and Glen for those ideas. I will keep those in mind - might have to get the MIG welder out to make something similar.

Andres - incredible garage. As you say oil spliages etc must wipe up really well from the epoxy unlike the oil absorbing into the concrete where the paint has flaked up on mine. On that subject, I think before I put the lift in I will be repainting the floor. Even though the paint has been down for a while, I don't think it has lasted as well as it should have done. I will have to look into it, but perhaps you can get stuff that you mix with hardener so it is a bit more durable (a bit like the stuff they put on flat roofs).

I think I have also seen your thread about putting your Elan on the lift some years ago and it seemed you were also nervous. The only other factor is the possibility that bobbins are weaker/ stronger on different cars. The body will not have ever been taken off, on mine.

On another note, with a new T-piece the light pods, pop up no trouble at all, after 30 years!

Freddie

[abstamaria]

Andres, I am envious of your shop “cleanliness” and spotless floor. The next time I move and build a new garage I’m going to replicate what you have done.

My only concern is what do I do with all my years of memorabilia hanging on the walls......

Yes, where to put memorabilia is a problem. I was looking at your photos as you have a very interesting place. I decided to keep only very few things and hung the posters ptecious to me in the shop washroom! I don’t expect (hope not) to do any more ground-up restorations,so my garage can be less cluttered. You are doing far more serious work in yours! I do wish I had a full size lift.

Andres

[abstamaria]

Yes, Freddie, I was afraid that bobbins would tear off and have the frame fall from the lift. I am more confident now.

Freddie, you have to check the integrity of your cement floor before you install a two-post left.

It’s good your pods are working. Congratulations!

Andres

[gino1]

Hi HCA..
I may be mistaken but you're not lifting the plus 2 on it's proper lift points...
I didn't think that was possible as the underside is not as strong as the standard Elan,,, Didn't say baby !

Gino