Lotus Elan

Thanks to all S4 Coupe in UK

PostPost by: 7skypilot » Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:32 am

May I thank all members out there who have helped me so much in recent work on my S4 coupe. I have posted a couple of questions over the past year or so but most of my queries have been answered by searching the massive amount of info available. LotusElan.net really is a superb resource and thanks to you all. Here is some information that might be useful to some.

I use the Elan (we?re in the UK) for some gentle scenic tours/events but experienced som problems on the 2013 Sun Run in France. I pulled the exhaust off, just behind the collector, on a Calais petrol station hump and did it again just before the start of Day 2 despite creeping over any obstacles. It took me 1h10min to reattach the system the first time; a mere 40mins the second time (when it was pouring down!).

Careful remodeling of the collector, main pipe and silencer support has tucked everything away as close as possible to the chassis. I?ve used Zircotec heat shield between the pipe and chassis. Clutch slave and rubber fork gaiter have been also been protected to prevent fluid boiling and the fork gaiter degrading. Using Mikalor clamps rather than ?U? clamps on the exhaust also maximizes ground clearance. No problems at all on this years Sun!

I?ve a ?halfway house? rear drive with donut inner and CV outer. It is either the best of both worlds, or the worst. I rather like it and intend to keep it. To avoid stretching the donuts (they really do distort at full droop), I jack the car at the rear on the A-frames, using an oak block that locates within the A-frame and has clearance for the disc. I try to minimise the time the suspension is allowed to droop when I?m working on the car and support the suspension with axles stands at the knock off hub when necessary. Again, thanks to a member here for the advice ? I?m sure it?ll go a long way to extending the donut life.

Gleaning info from this site, I fitted narrow, stiffer springs on adjustable platforms (Kelsport) at the rear with the existing, very good condition, Konis and TT fast road shocks/springs at the front. No major hassles apart from removing the Koni damper nut in a Coupe. That rear window glass really does get in the way! A 24mm socket was ground flat to ensure accurate location on the castellated nut, which made the job much easier. New nuts, to match the beautifully made Kelsport upper mount, are carefully loctited onto the damper as these are not castellated.

To make removing and installation of the rear suspension as easy as possible I replaced the inner of the Lotocone bolts with a cap-head inserted from above and loctited. The resulting stud projects down and makes locating the suspension on the chassis tower simple. The outer bolt drives up into the captive nut on the tower as usual. I?m usually reluctant to use stainless fastenings but there seem to be few shear stresses here (& the bolt is 7/16?). You can smile when I write that they have snapped! Removing the rear uprights, complete with spring and damper from the Coupe is now simple and doesn?t involve taking the rear parcel shelf out.
One minor problem I encountered after installing the rear suspension was with a knocking noise at the rear ?somewhere?. So annoying as I reckoned something was loose in the boot. Everything was removed without but the knock persisted. Searching this forum gave me clues to trace this knock to the RH rear Koni strut, which was loose in the upright. After removal of the strut the outer and insert were drilled, tapped and a shallow 4mm stainless cap head used to lock the tightened (with a home-made pin spanner) strut to the outer. Again, thanks to one of you for suggesting this.

On this year?s Sun Run the car ran faultlessly with no ground or wheel (Minilites)/body clearance problems at all. The torrential rain highlighted some minor problems with the wipers and the lights could be better.

After reading many threads on earthing I?ll be tracing and cleaning everything, and maybe adding additional earths as suggested. A PO rewired the car superbly and I hope to continue his good work. I?ve also bought HID lights and I?ll let you know how they work and fit. The set I?ve bought has a complete loom, which uses the existing H4 connector to switch lights from hi to lo. It is completely reversible with the original headlights, needing only a power supply and earth. I?ll keep you posted!!!

Thanks to all and enjoy the winter maintenance/mods or for those in more gentle climes, enjoy the driving!
7skypilot
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 105
Joined: 16 Nov 2010
Location: Guildford, UK

Total Online:

Users browsing this forum: alan.barker and 12 guests