Lotus Elan

It's Here!! My new Elan S3 :D

PostPost by: dgym » Fri May 02, 2014 11:33 am

My car arrived at the depot in Melbourne today and I've just returned from the slightly stressfull drive home. I say slightly because of all the first drive homes I've done this has by far been the most hassle free. I wont tell you about the Toyota Corona that I left in Historic Chilton.

First thing that happened was quite a wait for them to bring the car out at the depot. Eventually a guy came out and gave me a high vis vest and told me i'd have to come and "work your magic" to start it. He didn't realise that I did not know the trick! I'd never started it before! It turned out the battery was dead so we used a jumper and blammo it ran.
I then had to figure out how to adjust the seat! It took a while and of course I was flustered but I got there.

drove out of the depot and found that the indicators were VERY...............SLOW...............

My stars aligned perfectly to land me in peak our traffic!
after some slow going I realised the tank was looking very close to empty, and, I didn't even know if the gauge was accurate, so I was watching the temp go up and the fuel go down and moving millimetres at a time. Eventually the stress got too much so I pulled into a car park to let the engine cool down while my lovely girlfriend took her car to grab some fuel and some jumper leads from a servo. I knew the battery was useless so the jumpers would be needed.

The sun was going down, and i hadn't figured out how to get the lights on. I could make them come up, but not very well, but more importantly i hadn't found the switch for the beams.
we got the car started again and rushed off to beat the sunset.
It took me half the rest of the trip home to figure out the lights and even then only one came on. My girlfriend commented that a cyclist that i passed had brighter lights than the Elan.

at the very last set of stop lights near my house, I would usually do a hand brake start. I realised this was impossible in the Elan, so i thought oh well i'll gun it.
THEN IT STARTED MISS FIRING! arghgh. and i was thinking, if i stall it in the middle of this intersection i wont be able to start it, in the dark, with no lights, its not fun.
but i made it and the missfire cured itself as i drove.

anyway, home safe and sound now. I think I have some battery charging issues and general electrical failures to sort, but that's my idea of fun.

now can I ask,
does anyone have a link to a schematic for the S3 FHC (67)?
does anyone know if the starter motor is the same as a triumph spitfire starter motor?
who is your go to place for parts? I'm building up a list of things to order but Im new to all of these Elan parts suppliers.
I need things like the centre console, dash surround bits, a rear view mirror and perhaps some carpets. and maybe a wiring loom would be nice, get some fresh wire and connections in there.

also, I LOOOOVE this car! It's so much fun to drive! It's just the best.

here's a picture
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36/6612
1967 S3 Coupe (left the factory in 66)
original rego PPC 8E
original owner B.M. Wetherill ..are you out there?
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Fri May 02, 2014 12:25 pm

Well done, you made it

I wonder if when "gunning" it you triggered the rev limiter? If so no prob, it's just doing its job

Some preliminary answers to your questions.....

does anyone have a link to a schematic for the S3 FHC (67)?

There are good parts diagrams on rdent's USA website, search on rdent lotus.

does anyone know if the starter motor is the same as a triumph spitfire starter motor?

Same as Other Ford kent motors, Cortina, Anglia etc. Possibly same as some BMC models

who is your go to place for parts? I'm building up a list of things to order but Im new to all of these Elan parts suppliers.

Steve at elan factory in Melbourne I've found excellent, also SJ Spares in UK. Haven't bought from the others yet (Paul Matty, Sue Miller, RDent, QED, Burtons, several others), but in my view we are very well served, parts-wise, given the age of these cars. I do find prices vary significantly, it's worth shopping around.

I need things like the centre console, dash surround bits, a rear view mirror and perhaps some carpets. and maybe a wiring loom would be nice, get some fresh wire and connections in there.

All available, none of them cheap! The various websites above are worth an afternoon's browsing, to see what you're in for....
Last edited by robertverhey on Sat May 03, 2014 1:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat May 03, 2014 12:01 am

Your really ought to get yourself a copy of the Workshop manual and that does have a schematic in it.



I prefer the logical kind rather than those that try to mimic the wiring loom; those just make me go crosseyed.

Theres one on the site here for a later car, in great detail, but you have to know how to pick & choose the bits relevant to your own car.

Try this: http://www.lotuselan.net/w/images/4/4f/ ... wiring.pdf
Bill Williams

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PostPost by: dgym » Sat May 03, 2014 2:06 am

hi guys thanks for your responses.

well i managed a fix (i think) before 8am this morning!
tracked down the charging wire from the alternator to battery and found out it was not connected! no wonder the battery was flat! I used a multimeter to find the fault in a DPO installed connector. The insides had corroded to smitherines.
I haven't tried it out yet as I'm giving the battery a charge. But I'm feeling pretty confident as it was a pretty big "well there's your problem" moment.
Im lucky in having lots of triumph spitfire parts laying around, in this I had a nice thick brown/yellow wire that I ran straight from the alternator to the starter solenoid battery terminal. That should do it.

The horn wasn't working either, so i pulled the button off and found that the pencil wasn't lined up with the tab on the button. So I lined that up and it's also awaiting the battery to be charged to test it. The air horns also had a crimp in the little hose so i reorganised that.

now the headlights,
I'm not clued in to how this works at all. All I know is that they use the manifold pressure to lift up. And Im guessing the light switch releases them? or does it open a valve?
Im not sure that my headlights got all the way up on the drive home last night. and on occasion they drooped and seemed to pop up a little again on overrun.
I've had a bit of a look at the hoses but haven't found anything obvious. The little tanks on each side though are quite rusty, and where the hoses attach is rust central.
Is there a "usual culprit" when the lights fail?

thanks in advance.

oh and I do have a workshop manual, but it's in the post along with spares for the car that the previous owner is sending down.
36/6612
1967 S3 Coupe (left the factory in 66)
original rego PPC 8E
original owner B.M. Wetherill ..are you out there?
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PostPost by: cal44 » Sat May 03, 2014 2:57 am

Three years ago I went with a guy to pickup his '70 Boss 302. It was a hundred miles from his house. On the way back it stopped on the side of the freeway with 50 miles to go. I will never pick up an old car again without it being on the trailer behind me.................

Congrats on the new ride.........they are so stinkin' cool.

mike
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Sat May 03, 2014 3:36 am

Hmm if headlights droop under acceleration and are fine on overrun that means that the system's not holding vacuum....if your vacuum pipes are sound, then, time to check the pull switch (hard to get, so lotsa bucks), or the vacuum pods (easy to test, just disconnect the tube leading to it and suck), or (gulp), the crossmember might be rusty. Hopefully not 'cause as jobs go that's a biggun!
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PostPost by: alan » Sat May 03, 2014 6:33 am

i suggest not to buy a workshop manuel but to buy the "BRIAN BUCKLAND" book which is a workshop manuel + many many more bits of very useful information.
Spitfires are a good source for Starters and Steering column parts, dip switch, indicaters etc.
have fun
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PostPost by: dgym » Sat May 03, 2014 8:58 am

so if the starter is the same as spitfire, then the high torque upgrade may be the same.. a Holden Rodeo or Holden Jackaroo for those in Australia fits right in on a spitfire.
I think the UK version is an Izuzu Trooper.
I'll have a look and compare tomorrow.

thanks!
36/6612
1967 S3 Coupe (left the factory in 66)
original rego PPC 8E
original owner B.M. Wetherill ..are you out there?
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PostPost by: billwill » Sat May 03, 2014 12:02 pm

robertverhey wrote:Hmm if headlights droop under acceleration and are fine on overrun that means that the system's not holding vacuum....if your vacuum pipes are sound, then, time to check the pull switch (hard to get, so lotsa bucks), or the vacuum pods (easy to test, just disconnect the tube leading to it and suck), or (gulp), the crossmember might be rusty. Hopefully not 'cause as jobs go that's a biggun!




This symptom can also mean that the non-return valve in the pipe from the inlet manifold is not working.


Summary of how the headlamp lifts work.

1. The engine inlet manifold sucks air from the narrow pipe which by a T piece is connected to the hollow front chassis member of the Elan. That acts as a vacuum reservoir.
2, A non return valve in that pipe, either near the manifold or built into the T piece prevents the engine blowing air back into the reservoir when the engine has low suction.
3. When you pull out the dashbboard lifter knob, pipes connect that vacuum reservoir to the headlight lifter actuator pods. So the reservoir sucks the air out of the actuator pods.
4. When you push in the dashboard knob the headlight pods feed pipe from that 'switch' is instead connected to open air, so air rushes back into the headlight lifter pods.
5. The electric wiring is separate from the vacuum stuff. Next to the lifter knob is a lighting switch. Up=off, middle = sidelights only, bottom = sidelights plus main lights.
6. On the steering column is a 3 position long-stalk switch. Up=Off, middle = Main beam, Bottom = dipped beam. {the functions of middle & bottom might be reversed}
7. If the headlamps are lifted and the dashboard electric switch is UP, and all the old circuits are present, the main headlights will operate off an automatic flasher.

I think that is all correct, though the flasher condition might be if the steering column stalk is in the upper position rather than the dashboard switch { my own flasher is long gone}.

The headlight actuator pods are basically a tin can with a very flexible rubber diaphragm across the middle, which is fixed to a rod that poked through a hole in the top. The bottom half is sealed and has an inlet/outlet pipe. Sucking on that pipe pulls the diaphragm and rod down, releasing the suction allows the headlamp springs to pull the rod up.


Due to small leaks the vacuum does not persist indefinitely when the engin is turned off, so if the headlights are up, over time the headlights slowly sink back down.

Elan owners boast about how long they keep it up.

Any rust holes in the bottom half of the actuator pods will stop them working and a good one won't cope if its partner is letting air into the system.

~~~~~~~~

In the USA fail safe version, there is only one actuator pod arranged to pull the headlights down. In their unpowered (engine off) state, a spring lifts the headlights into their operating position. So with the engine off, the headlights slowly and spookily rise. They then pull down when you turn the engine on.
Last edited by billwill on Sat May 03, 2014 12:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: jcocking » Sat May 03, 2014 12:04 pm

We have not announced it, but we have the full parts breakdowns on LotusElan.net. It is part of the Wiki coming soon option. Try this http://www.lotuselan.net/wiki/Category:Elan_Parts_List.

You can also click on the Wiki link at the top. We are still building out the base content before removing the coming soon link.

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PostPost by: europatek » Mon May 05, 2014 11:12 am

Welcome to the forum and good to hear of another Elan making it's way to Melbourne. I'm located out east and have an S4 FHC. You can find my resto log on the forum. PM me if you want to catch up and talk Elans.
Regards, Matt.
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