Lotus Elan

26 3924 Frame Restoration

PostPost by: EnfoKen » Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:30 pm

The frame for 3924 is now complete awaiting engine , gearbox and body. I've tried to keep it stock as near as possible. However I have taken a few liberties and replaced the early brake calipers with 14LF type. The shocks are Koni Red Classics all around. I've also used braided brake lines instead of the rubber type. The rubber donuts were replaced with sliding spline universal half shafts. I have them on my other Elan and they work great plus they seem a bit more period correct than CV's. The rear arms are silver cad plated only to prevent corrosion. I may paint them black in the future. Rubber bushings are used throughout. I hope to have this on the road by late summer.
Before and after.
105e-31-L.jpg and
105e-27-L.jpg and


elanframe5.jpg and
elanframe9.jpg and
elanframe10.jpg and
elanframe8.jpg and
elanframe2.jpg and
elanframe6.jpg and
elanframe7.jpg and
http://thegaragista.com

Elan S2 26/4448
Elan S2 26/3924
Seven S2 SB1386
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PostPost by: ethanlance » Mon Apr 21, 2014 2:44 am

Looks great. I'll be removing the body from mine this summer.

What's the opinion on having a 46 year old frame restored? Mine has a crack near the left side motor mount. I'm sure I'll find other problems when I pull the body
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Mon Apr 21, 2014 5:30 am

Ethan,

It can be done as long as its not badly torn up or rusting away. Cracks can be fixed, weak areas reinforced. Most cars that lived here on the west coast did not suffer much rust, so they are easier to refurbish. There are more around here on their original chassis than replacements.

Regards,
Dan
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PostPost by: jimj » Mon Apr 21, 2014 7:41 am

Years ago, maybe 10, there was an article about buying Elans with quotes from Paul Matty and others. This was in a UK magazine admittedly but Paul was adamant that you shouldn`t buy an Elan that hasn`t had the chassis replaced, or be prepared to do it. He also said don`t buy a 40 year old car that hasn`t been rewired, especially a plastic one. The article was about buying a turn-key car to use, not about restoration.
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PostPost by: ethanlance » Tue Apr 22, 2014 5:09 am

StressCraxx wrote:Ethan,

It can be done as long as its not badly torn up or rusting away. Cracks can be fixed, weak areas reinforced. Most cars that lived here on the west coast did not suffer much rust, so they are easier to refurbish. There are more around here on their original chassis than replacements.

Regards,
Dan


Thanks Dan. I just got the Gordon Lund book on restoration and he says right off to throw away the frame. I was surprised, had not heard any owners say that before. I'd like to keep mine as original as possible.
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PostPost by: alan » Tue Apr 22, 2014 12:57 pm

imho if you don't have rusted/rotten front turrets and just a few cracks e.g. engine mounts or around frustacone diff monts it's o.k. to weld repair.
I have the original chassis on my 1973 +2S130 and it's o.k. for the moment.
I have found that when the front turrets start to rust you will have a problem with the vacuum for the headlamp system, which to me is a warning :wink:
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Tue Apr 22, 2014 2:14 pm

here in switzerland you won't get a so-called veteran status (6 to 7 years NO MOT) with any kind of
aftermarket chassis: the car becomes new with all the 2014 applicable laws. i was lucky: my car never
got wet (or hardly ever) and/or was used as a hill-climber. the chassis was a dream when i bought it and
I immediately got it galvanised (2 baths: one to clean the paint off and 2. dipping to get the zinc-coating.
cheers sandy
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed Apr 23, 2014 1:46 am

Thats why its not a "chassis" but a "sub frame". Replacing it is no different from replacing one of the suspension arms in terms of the cars identification or the equivalent of welding in new floor or sill sections in a steel bodied car. But I know telling that to an officious inspection authority in some countries will not get you very far :lol:

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