Spyder Suspension and Roll Protection Fitted

PostPost by: adigra » Fri May 31, 2013 1:35 pm

Hi all,

Picked my car up from Spyder yesterday after having all new suspension (springs, dampers, bones, bushes, rollbar) and roll over bar and side impact protection fitted. They did a really superb job. After some discussion with the guys there I decided to have everything adjustable fitted and have them set up the car. What a difference! OK, my car has had Federal springs fitted at some point in the past, and has developed a saggy bottom, so it was hardly handling its best, but I didn't quite expect the transformation it received.

I took it back home across some familiar twisty roads where I knew I could really experience the difference. Some corners where I really had to force the car to turn now aren't even noticed, it just goes as if on rails. In sharpish turns at anything over 40mph the nose used to twist a bit and feel unsettled, but now it just remains planted without any noticeable body roll at all. The damping is firmer than before, so you feel some of the smaller bumps a bit more, but the primary ride over larger undulations is so good that I won't mess with it.

The roll over bar fits really neatly into the coupe, it looks as if it was always meant to be there. The best bit though, is that the seatbelts now mount on the side rather than behind the neck, which used to drive me nuts.

On the way home, on the A1, my throttle cable snapped at the part of the motorway where there was no shoulder at all. Trying to fix it while the lorries are trying to avoid you at 60mph is not something I'd like to repeat. Bodget it enough to get me home, and luckily I have a couple of spare cables, so it's a job for tomorrow.

Regards,
Adi
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Fri May 31, 2013 1:41 pm

Pictures !!!! :mrgreen: ???
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PostPost by: adigra » Fri May 31, 2013 1:45 pm

When I replace the cable tomorrow I'll snap some photos.
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PostPost by: AHM » Fri May 31, 2013 8:08 pm

How do you bodge an accelerator cable?
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PostPost by: adigra » Fri May 31, 2013 9:41 pm

By rerouting the cable the way it shouldn't go to move it closer to the carbs to give me an extra half inch, which was just enough to pinch the end of it and make it work.
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PostPost by: adigra » Sat Jun 01, 2013 4:20 pm

Well, it seem like my offside rear wheel bearing is failing. I did hear an intermittent knock from the back on the way up from Spyder, but it got worse today and I could feel the rear move around a bit while manoeuvring at slow speeds. After I checked the wheel I could move it a bit and replicate the knock. At first I was worried it might be something with the new suspension parts, but it seems to be coming from the hub. Unfortunately I couldn't get the hub off without a puller so I'll have to wait until Wed to have my local tyre place pull it apart.

Am I right to assume that Spyder would've had to have the hubs and shafts apart to fit new springs, dampers and bones at the back? I suppose it must've been enough to disturb the old bearing enough to push it over the edge.
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PostPost by: adigra » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:32 am

A couple of photos of the roll bar. It was so bright outside (amazingly!) that it was very difficult to get anything to show. Anyhow, hopefully you can see just how neatly it fits into the coupe, and from the outside it looks like it belongs. Notice the new seatbelt mountings. So much more comfortable.

Regards,
Adi
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PostPost by: PeterK » Tue Jun 04, 2013 9:44 pm

I would expect a failing wheel bearing just to whine and need to have almost collapsed to give a noticeable knock. I would do a spanner check on all the suspension mounting nuts and bolts, the rear hub nut and check the rubber donuts first.
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PostPost by: adigra » Tue Jun 04, 2013 10:28 pm

I agree, I would've also expected the bearing to grumble before any knocks and movement, but the movement is definitely in the hub. When I took the wheel off I could still move the hub a fraction, but nothing else. Potentially the outboard shaft might be damaged instead of the bearing. I took the nut off and noticed that it was so tightly done previously that it pushed the washer into a concave shape. No joy though, the knock is still there.

I have the car booked in with a specialist, so we'll see. Sadly it's not for another two and a half weeks.
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PostPost by: PeterK » Wed Jun 05, 2013 7:04 am

Have you tried refitting and torquing the hub nut, as after new bearings they can settle. Excessive end float, and the forces of the outer drive shaft moving in and out with suspension movement and cornering, might have hammered your washer concave.
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PostPost by: adigra » Wed Jun 05, 2013 11:10 am

I have, but do you think the movement could be due to the washer being bent? It's about 1 to 2mm out of shape.
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PostPost by: PeterK » Wed Jun 05, 2013 2:07 pm

Probably not, but I'd hammer the spacer flat, instal the other way round and torque up the by & check
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PostPost by: Pistacchio sprint 72 » Sat Jun 08, 2013 10:24 am

Did spyder took off the body to install the roll bar?

Do you know if the silent blocs (bushes)connected to the engine mount are standard items? And not specific to spyder?
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PostPost by: adigra » Sat Jun 08, 2013 12:15 pm

No, only the seats and the console had to be taken out. It's a fairly routine procedure for them.

I don't know about the bushes, sorry. You can always give them a call. I found Sean and Andy there most pleasant to deal with.

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