Car Trailer tying - quick answer needed

PostPost by: terryp » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:22 pm

Hello
We have just picked up our hired car trailer for picking up our Elan tomorrow.
Basically the trailer is the size of a small house. there are tying points at the front and back but what and how should we tie the Elan on?

Thanks
Terry
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Wed Jan 18, 2012 7:55 pm

Hi Terry,
The usual way to secure any vehicle on a transporter or trailer is by it's wheels. Some ideas on this site...http://www.talcospecialties.com/car-tie-down.aspx
Hope this helps. Good luck.

Regards,
Roger
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PostPost by: terryp » Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:02 pm

Roger
The car has original steel wheels and my French hirer was very concerned about steel wheels cutting his web on the straps?
I think the issue is that the suspension / body needs to move?

Thanks
Terry
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PostPost by: oldelanman » Wed Jan 18, 2012 8:24 pm

Hi Terry,
I don't think the wheels would be sharp enough to cut the straps. There are reinforced protective sleeves which slip over the straps or custom made plastic protectors for use where the strap passes over sharp corners but I guess you can't source those in time. Why not cut some pieces of plastic from an icecream tub or something similar and use those between the strap and the wheel ?
Regards,
Roger
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PostPost by: innesw » Wed Jan 18, 2012 10:41 pm

Hi Terry,

Did the trailer come with any straps? The trailer I hired was huge too but used the straps pictured, you could also probably make up a similar strapping combination with webbing and strong rope.

IMG_2610.JPG and


Also the very first time I bought the car we didn't have the fancy straps so just tied the front and rear of the chassis down to the trailer, this was fine for a 1 hr drive home on windy roads (the plus 2 also had no brakes fitted).

Good luck with the car!

Innes
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PostPost by: AHM » Thu Jan 19, 2012 2:23 am

Tie down by the wheels only. Everything else is sprung - when you go over a bump the straps become loose.

If you are not driving it on - loop a rope around the front crossmember (only) to pull. Make the loop so that the tail end is coming from the rear of the crossmember. Use a block of wood as a spacer to prevent squashing the brake pipe. (Don't pull from the suspension unless you want to buy new wishbones, don't pull from the steering rack mounting unless you want a new chassis.

If you are driving on - work out how you will get out of the car.


For the straps
Hook the rear end of a strap to the trailer
Feed the loose end around the back of the wheel (over the top)
Take the loose end from the front
Feed it back across the face of the wheel over the top of the rear part of the strap, and forward to the anchor point (and feed it through the ratchet tensioner).

This gives you a loop that is tensioned evenly.
The loop should be positioned centrally on the wheel above the horizontal centre line.
Try not to anchor the straps too far out sideways as this will tend to twist the wheel.

The tension in the strap will make the tyre bulge so it won't be on the rim.

Wheel protectors are for protecting wheels from straps not the other way round.

Simon
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PostPost by: terryp » Thu Jan 19, 2012 6:30 am

Simon / Innes / Roger
Thanks a lot, I have printed the page and will take it today!

Cheers
Terry
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 9:32 am

Probably to late but I always tie down my Elan on the trailer via the supension arms at the out board end. Been doing it for 30 years and many many miles of trailering to race meetings with no problems ( probably 100 k kilometers plus on a trailer over last 30 years ).

I figure this point in suspension takes the brake loads so it should be OK with loads on the trailer. Tieing on the supenssion outbaord end still allows the body to move freely on its suspension on the trailer.

At the front I put a rope ( or tie strap) around the lower wishbone just inboard of the the shock mount. At the rear I put it just inboard of the brake disc where the A frame fore / aft strut is connected.

regards
Rohan
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PostPost by: AHM » Thu Jan 19, 2012 10:54 am

Rohan,

As you are regular " tower" who knows his car and his trailer I wouldn't disagree with you.

But for a one-off, the only time I used a transport company to move the elan they twisted one of the front wishbones.

Simon
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jan 19, 2012 11:04 am

I guess if you use a rachet tie strap and pull it down really hard at a steep angle you could twist a front wishbone. Keep the tie down angle reasonable and it should be OK . At least it has been for me.

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PostPost by: mac5777 » Fri Jan 20, 2012 3:50 am

Here is how I tied mine down for a 3,000 tow to a Colorado LOG. I also set the brakes and blocked the wheels. Innes, nice trailer.
As a coupe, while balancing the trailer weight, it was a real bitch to get into and out of the car--could not open the doors or take the top off.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Fri Jan 20, 2012 6:56 am

Terry buy some ratchet straps from Casto. They are very cheap, then if they are damaged it's no problem. I did that when i collected my TVR and drove 700 kms with it on a trailer
Alan B
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Jan 20, 2012 8:49 am

Elan is home and snug in its little garage. I clear out the rubbish out the car today!

Thanks to all
Terry
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PostPost by: alaric » Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:25 am

Any pics to share yet Terry? Glad you got it home ok. I always use the special car transporting straps that go around the wheels, and haven't had any problems.

Sean.
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PostPost by: terryp » Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:47 am

Sean
See below ....I think it needs a bit of work. It was raining , we went to put the hood up and the thing cracked and broke! ....hence the cling film!

P1030164.JPG and


P1030182.JPG and
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