New Member with Big Project
17 posts
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Hi there, I am a new member to this site and need some advise.
My dad has a 1970 elan DHC S4 SE , we have removed it today from a garage where iut hasnt moved since 1980 when he bought a house and had me.
We moved it from The garage where it has stood and it dosnt look to bad. The paint is in very good consdition , only tiny marks here and there.
First things first before we lift the engine out and think about sending it off to QED or somewhere simalar we want to see if it will fire
What do you recomend we do and can you recomend any places to go for bits and engine work,
Thanks
Kieran & Graham
My dad has a 1970 elan DHC S4 SE , we have removed it today from a garage where iut hasnt moved since 1980 when he bought a house and had me.
We moved it from The garage where it has stood and it dosnt look to bad. The paint is in very good consdition , only tiny marks here and there.
First things first before we lift the engine out and think about sending it off to QED or somewhere simalar we want to see if it will fire
What do you recomend we do and can you recomend any places to go for bits and engine work,
Thanks
Kieran & Graham
- kieran_s4
- New-tral
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 30 Oct 2005
I think we will get different opinions here, as you are thinking about rebuilding it anyway I would attempt to start it but would do a few things first, take out the plugs and put some oil down the bores, make sure it has oil and water, take off the oilpump and refit priming it, fill and fit a new oil filter, take off the camshaft caps one at a time and lube cam bearings/shaft preferbly with a cam lube.
lube the cam lobes with a cam lube, squirt oil on the cam followers, turn over the engine by hand feeling for any excessive resistance.
Clean out the carbs/jets/pump and generally check for cracked/perished fuel hoses.
If you are happy there is nothing likely to cause damage, disconnect coil and fuel supply and turn engine with starter in short bursts to see if oil pressure will build up.
Do a compression test and acess results of all actions,
Fit new plugs.
HAVE FIRE EXTINGUISHER AT THE READY!
if happy connect fuel and check for leaks, connect electrics and try to start.
Good luck Brian.
lube the cam lobes with a cam lube, squirt oil on the cam followers, turn over the engine by hand feeling for any excessive resistance.
Clean out the carbs/jets/pump and generally check for cracked/perished fuel hoses.
If you are happy there is nothing likely to cause damage, disconnect coil and fuel supply and turn engine with starter in short bursts to see if oil pressure will build up.
Do a compression test and acess results of all actions,
Fit new plugs.
HAVE FIRE EXTINGUISHER AT THE READY!
if happy connect fuel and check for leaks, connect electrics and try to start.
Good luck Brian.
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
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types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3407
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
I agree with Brian...give it a go but stop if you don't get oil pressure when cranking with plugs out and coil disconnected.
Whilst you've got the carbs off clean up the side of the engine and inner wing with petrol / kitchen roll. It won't help start it but it will reduce the combustable stuff under there! And really, Brian isn't kidding, have a decent sized fire extinguiser next to the car...one that you know works, and not a little in-car one.
I would replace the fuel pump to carb pipe no matter what it looks like...it's at least 25 years old and the most common cause of Elans catching fire...petrol onto the distributor. Even if it looks good, the rubber can de-laminate inside and restrict the petrol flow to the carbs.
Also whilst the carbs are off put a new petrol pump rubber diaphragm in.
And a new set of points / condenser, or at least clean up the old ones.
Obviously drain out old petrol, and crank through the new stuff when you're checking for oil presure (plugs out; coil disconnected)
If, no, WHEN you find that the clutch is stuck, and you don't know how to unstick...shout up...I have a foolproof method!
Have fun....Mark
Whilst you've got the carbs off clean up the side of the engine and inner wing with petrol / kitchen roll. It won't help start it but it will reduce the combustable stuff under there! And really, Brian isn't kidding, have a decent sized fire extinguiser next to the car...one that you know works, and not a little in-car one.
I would replace the fuel pump to carb pipe no matter what it looks like...it's at least 25 years old and the most common cause of Elans catching fire...petrol onto the distributor. Even if it looks good, the rubber can de-laminate inside and restrict the petrol flow to the carbs.
Also whilst the carbs are off put a new petrol pump rubber diaphragm in.
And a new set of points / condenser, or at least clean up the old ones.
Obviously drain out old petrol, and crank through the new stuff when you're checking for oil presure (plugs out; coil disconnected)
If, no, WHEN you find that the clutch is stuck, and you don't know how to unstick...shout up...I have a foolproof method!
Have fun....Mark
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Elanintheforest - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2496
- Joined: 04 Oct 2005
I am nearly through a renovation and I suggest you take a look at the chassis before you go too far.
The upright towers at the front tend to rust - mine were too far gone to repair. I removed the bodyshell and rebuilt the car round a new Spyder chassis.
I don't want to frighten you but the chassis is a weak point on old Elans.
best of luck
Geoff
The upright towers at the front tend to rust - mine were too far gone to repair. I removed the bodyshell and rebuilt the car round a new Spyder chassis.
I don't want to frighten you but the chassis is a weak point on old Elans.
best of luck
Geoff
- Mohe
- First Gear
- Posts: 26
- Joined: 14 Sep 2003
Without wishing to deflate you I think you must understand that you may have a great deal of work ahead of you. In my opinion you should forget the engine and concentrate on the rest of the car. All bushes will need replacing the brake servo and master cylinder will probably need sorting along with the calipers. A whole host of other things will need seeing to even if the car was perfect the last time it saw the road. It is pointless getting the engine sorted if the rest of the car is not ready and you may end up having the engine in and out of the car more than needed. I speak from experience as I have had my engine out five times when I could, with hindsight, have done the job once.
Sorry if this is not what you wanted to hear but if you do the job properly you will have a car to be proud of.
I am in Lincolnshire and would be happy to help if I can.
Chris
Sorry if this is not what you wanted to hear but if you do the job properly you will have a car to be proud of.
I am in Lincolnshire and would be happy to help if I can.
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
i know the amount of work ahead , i have read everything about these cars growing up from a youngster. Finally starting this project is what ive been waiting for.
I know the money and the work ahead is large, but its nothing to what getting this car back to A1 condition means to either me or my dad
It will be done Properly and NO areas negelcted
Kieran
I know the money and the work ahead is large, but its nothing to what getting this car back to A1 condition means to either me or my dad
It will be done Properly and NO areas negelcted
Kieran
- kieran_s4
- New-tral
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 30 Oct 2005
Hello Kieran, was the garage heated? And was it really never moved? I'd vote for trying to fire it up, then maybe down the drive and back to see what happens, if the drive is flat. All the old rubber would be my biggest concern, fuel lines and brake wheel cylinders checked/replaced first.
- 1964 S1
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1296
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Hi Kieran...I think you're doing the right thing getting to 'know' the car's current state before taking it apart. I've done a ground up restoration on 5 cars so far, and each time I try to get it as good as I can without doing work that has to be repeated and doing bits that enable you to better quantify what has to be done. Getting the engine going, freeing the clutch, running it up and down the drive gets the enthusiasm going to sustain you though the rebuild. And an Elan isn't a daunting car to rebuild...It's one of the most satisfying when you can roll that chassis out from under the shell, and build the mechanics back into a new chassis. A big Airfix kit! Getting the suspension, brakes and steering sorted is very straightforward...even getting the diff in and out (or rather out and in) and replacing those Rotoflex couplings is simple when the chassis is out.
A lot of folks pull a car apart (the easy and fun bit!) and lose interest after a short while...just look at ebay for the number of abandoned projects. A bit of planning, a lot of photographs and the Parts manual as well as the Workshop manual, will help considerably. Above all, enjoy!!
A lot of folks pull a car apart (the easy and fun bit!) and lose interest after a short while...just look at ebay for the number of abandoned projects. A bit of planning, a lot of photographs and the Parts manual as well as the Workshop manual, will help considerably. Above all, enjoy!!
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Elanintheforest - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2496
- Joined: 04 Oct 2005
Thanks, have you got any pictures of elans during restoration i could see.
My email is [email protected]
Kieran
My email is [email protected]
Kieran
- kieran_s4
- New-tral
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 30 Oct 2005
HI there
And enjoy your rebuild....pictures on rebuilds you can watch my own here
http://fullspeed.to/lotuselan and there is some other to on the net http://www.unibrain.org/motorsports/elan
Good luck
And enjoy your rebuild....pictures on rebuilds you can watch my own here
http://fullspeed.to/lotuselan and there is some other to on the net http://www.unibrain.org/motorsports/elan
Good luck
Johan
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sotul86 - First Gear
- Posts: 43
- Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Kieran,
Good to see you are keen to get another +2 back on the road.
Good luck and happy to repeat my offer of sharing my hard won experience if it can be of any help!
I am not to far away.
Chris
Good to see you are keen to get another +2 back on the road.
Good luck and happy to repeat my offer of sharing my hard won experience if it can be of any help!
I am not to far away.
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
chrishewett wrote:Good to see you are keen to get another +2 back on the road.
Thought he said it was an S4?
Rick
- blueseamonkey
- Second Gear
- Posts: 55
- Joined: 16 Aug 2005
Sorry. Reading to many threads at once!
Good luck anyway.
Chris
Good luck anyway.
Chris
- chrishewett
- Third Gear
- Posts: 407
- Joined: 06 Oct 2003
I would drop the sump as well and so you have a good indication how dirty or clean the engine is. Just clean the inside of the sump well and if you can not find too many metal flakes etc in the oil just put it back together and fit new plugs , points and filters etc.. as mentioned earlier.
An engine job is relatively expensive and not always necessary.
I just fired up an engine after at least 15-20years sitting around and it is running fine with excellent oil pressure and no rattles.
Just make sure you do not overrev the engine at the beginning, just take it easy.
good luck
robin
An engine job is relatively expensive and not always necessary.
I just fired up an engine after at least 15-20years sitting around and it is running fine with excellent oil pressure and no rattles.
Just make sure you do not overrev the engine at the beginning, just take it easy.
good luck
robin
- bengalcharlie
- Third Gear
- Posts: 267
- Joined: 25 Nov 2003
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