Isn't this swell....
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41st season opener, oil coming out of air-box breather, a never seen before occurrence. You guessed it, a bloated and clogged oil drain tube.
During the last of many engine rebuilds over the years, I received a gasket set which included a rubber drain tube. Well why not use it, I thought? I put the original Lotus homemade steel tube and fiberglass drain that came on my '65 Elan away for safe keeping. I had reused it on all previous overhauls.
Taking a cue (and measurements) from the original drain, I creating a slip joint using different size steel tubing with welded washers on each end. A set screw on the larger tube secures the joint.
I was able to install this without removing any other Twink parts. This should be good until the next rebuild at which point I'll change back to the original drain and shoot for another 40 years.
Jim
During the last of many engine rebuilds over the years, I received a gasket set which included a rubber drain tube. Well why not use it, I thought? I put the original Lotus homemade steel tube and fiberglass drain that came on my '65 Elan away for safe keeping. I had reused it on all previous overhauls.
Taking a cue (and measurements) from the original drain, I creating a slip joint using different size steel tubing with welded washers on each end. A set screw on the larger tube secures the joint.
I was able to install this without removing any other Twink parts. This should be good until the next rebuild at which point I'll change back to the original drain and shoot for another 40 years.
Jim
- spanner
- Second Gear
- Posts: 82
- Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Jim,
This is a great idea. I have some questions though.
1. What exactly is the "original Lotus homemade steel tube and fiberglass drain that came on" your '65 Elan?
2. Where is the set screw on the larger tube?
3. Do you pull down the rubber tube to access it after installation?
4. If the rubber holds everything in position, do you even need the set screw?
Thanks for the idea Jim.
This is a great idea. I have some questions though.
1. What exactly is the "original Lotus homemade steel tube and fiberglass drain that came on" your '65 Elan?
2. Where is the set screw on the larger tube?
3. Do you pull down the rubber tube to access it after installation?
4. If the rubber holds everything in position, do you even need the set screw?
Thanks for the idea Jim.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
Hi Frank,
The photo shows the original drain tube. It was fabricated with two tapered steel tubes, two steel washers and wrapped in fiberglass.
My version uses straight tubing that telescopes to the desired length. I simply drilled a hole in the larger outer tube and welded on a small nut to accept a set screw. Close the telescope, install large tube in top hole, pull smaller tube down and install in block, tighten set screw.
I cut 2 round rubber gaskets to fit between the steel washers and engine. A small amount of RTV was applied at each end and between the telescoping tubes.
There is no rubber tube used anywhere.... nor will there be one again.
Jim
The photo shows the original drain tube. It was fabricated with two tapered steel tubes, two steel washers and wrapped in fiberglass.
My version uses straight tubing that telescopes to the desired length. I simply drilled a hole in the larger outer tube and welded on a small nut to accept a set screw. Close the telescope, install large tube in top hole, pull smaller tube down and install in block, tighten set screw.
I cut 2 round rubber gaskets to fit between the steel washers and engine. A small amount of RTV was applied at each end and between the telescoping tubes.
There is no rubber tube used anywhere.... nor will there be one again.
Jim
- spanner
- Second Gear
- Posts: 82
- Joined: 06 Mar 2008
Hi
Sorry- I beat you on this. The rubber hose on mine sprang a leak (a biggie!) so I had a stainless replacement made. In two halves it screws up close to enable it to slot into the upper/lower holes, it is then unscrewed and locked into place with a locknut on the threaded part.
A bit of silicon top and bottom finishes it. Pricey to make but far easier to fit.
Regards
John
Sorry- I beat you on this. The rubber hose on mine sprang a leak (a biggie!) so I had a stainless replacement made. In two halves it screws up close to enable it to slot into the upper/lower holes, it is then unscrewed and locked into place with a locknut on the threaded part.
A bit of silicon top and bottom finishes it. Pricey to make but far easier to fit.
Regards
John
- worzel
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 611
- Joined: 13 Jan 2004
I think they were talking about the vertical rubber pipe/cone that goes between the head and the block.
I've recently used some standard 15mm copper pipe & plumbing fittings to make a new oil breather. Mine goes down into a shiny aluminium cyclists drink bottle mounted where my mech fuel pump used to be.
I've recently used some standard 15mm copper pipe & plumbing fittings to make a new oil breather. Mine goes down into a shiny aluminium cyclists drink bottle mounted where my mech fuel pump used to be.
Bill Williams
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
- billwill
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 19 Apr 2008
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