S1 Progress report - Roller !

PostPost by: cabc26b » Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:46 pm

With the S2 out of the way I can get back to the S1.

After being stored in pieces for years it is nice to see the car coming back together, this month assembled the corners on to the chassis and then made it a roller. Next steps are to see if the cars wheels are pointed in the right direction ( or can be made to ) finish up rear brake system then fit body - shooting for January on this.

George
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LRCRNR.JPG and
S1LFCRNR.JPG and
RHS-nowheels.JPG and
LHS-wheelson.JPG and
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PostPost by: Jas » Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:26 am

Hi George

It looks great as always.
I saw your S2 on Youtube the other day, and it looked and sounded good too.
Will you share with us what else it is that you have there in the garage, especially the Jaguar shell and no 61 looks exiting?

Happy holydays
Jannik
Last edited by Jas on Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jannik
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PostPost by: jimj » Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:10 am

Aren`t the diff. bolts upside down?
Jim
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sun Dec 28, 2008 11:14 am

jimj wrote:Aren`t the diff. bolts upside down?
Jim


The way George has them is the way I have seen them on all of the Elans I have bought (and disassembled).

Gary

ps I looked at the S1,S2, Coupe service manual and show it opposite of Geooge's install, however I looked at the Elan S4 service manual dated March 1970 and on page R4 of the final drive show it just like george has it. Most likey it doesn''t make any difference.
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PostPost by: prloz » Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:12 pm

Thought it was best practice to have the bolt head at the top.
That way, if the nut falls off, the bolt will remain in position.
Regards,
Peter.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sun Dec 28, 2008 12:31 pm

prloz wrote:Thought it was best practice to have the bolt head at the top.
That way, if the nut falls off, the bolt will remain in position.
Regards,
Peter.


If it falls off, someone had a brain fart and didn't tighten it properly or used the wrong nut.
Before we get to far off topic (that would never happen on this forum)
I would like to say the chassis looks great George, and the alloy calipers sure look nice.

Gary
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frustacone nuts.jpg and
This is a Elan chassis with 4 years of service that I bought with the cylinder head in the boot. It was off the road from 1969 and has not been touched since leaving Cheshunt. The frustacone bolts were installed at the factory.
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:51 pm

Hi Gary,

Thanks for the kind words. You'll get a kick out of what I fitting on the rear caliper brackets..

Peter and Jim - I have done it both ways, to Gary's point not sure it matters if you do it right - I would say this - when you have to tighten then it's easier with it this way, and if the nut backing off is the issue your worried about use some inspection lacquer on the nut.


Jannik - On the cars in the background of the pictures. the shot of the RHS - there is a disassembled Jaguar Prototype racer, Behind it is a Mercedes 300SL - I don't remember what is behind the Mercedes at the moment. On the shoot of the LHS - The roller is Jag Xk140 - this is a very cool project - lets just say it's likely to be the fasted XK you will ever come across.. Behind this to the left is a Lister - The photos show about 15% of the complex - the entire space is filled with British cars and car parts running the gamut from Prewar MG's to the prototype -

ROSS - if you are looking - the extra Rim is the one I will be sending your way this week...

George
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Mon Dec 29, 2008 9:06 am

Diff bolts do drop out if the wrong nuts/bolts are used... PO (honest) used short bolt with ordinary nut... Made one hell of a noise but no damage, apart from the bolt!

Went on to find broken Diff mount.

Jeremy
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Wrong Diff bolts.jpg and
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