Don't blame Lucas - it must be my fault!

[frearther]

Once again, I?m held hostage by my lack of electrical knowledge. My multi-year restoration project is at the point of getting the engine started. Of course, it won?t!

The problem is in the electrics somewhere. First, some background: 1965 Elan S2, positive ground, generator, stock everything (except maybe a higher compression ratio due to significant head shaving). New parts: points, plugs, condenser, coil, rotor, cap, copper secondary wiring, connectors, etc. etc. Conventional ignition system.

I?ve double checked that the dizzy is installed correctly with #1 cylinder at TDC compression stroke. Points are set at .015? gap. Visuals show that points do indeed open and close properly.

Now, here?s the problem (aside from a distinct lack of spark ? checked that out yesterday): I can?t set the static timing because the test light will not come on. This is the same for both open and closed points. I connected one lead of the light to the primary connector at the distributor, the other to a good (tested) ground. But no matter how I twist and turn the dizzy, the light won?t come on. I even made sure that the key was in the run position. There is power to the coil from the ignition switch, although, as I think about it, I didn?t check the voltage.

I?ve also checked that the dizzy body is grounded and that the test lamp actually works.

Am I doing the static timing thing wrong? It seems to me that I used to use the same procedure for both Porsches and both Minis.

Can anyone enlighten me? After 18 years, I NEED to get this car to run.

[types26/36]

If you have power to the coil my guess's are:
1. faulty coil (or connections to it)
2. faulty low tension wire (coil to connection on distributor)
3. points not correctly fitted (with insulating washers/ferell)
4.faulty condenser
5. dirty points contact faces (new points need a wipe)

[nebogipfel]

Check items as Brian says

Also check the short wire inside the distributor

In addition, once you have a spark at the points a simple static timing setting can be achieved by putting the crank timing marks on 10 degrees before TDC (or whatever setting you want) then rotate the distributor past the point where the points open (ie off the lobe) then rotate it slowly back until you see the points just break and you get a spark.

Using this method I have often hit pretty much perfect static timing first time, certainly good enough to get the engine running.

Good luck

[ttaunton]

Ignition on and points open? Put your voltmeter probes on the open points. If all is well you will measure 12v between them.

[andyhodg]

Try disconnecting the LT wire that runs from the coil to the points. Then with the ignition on you should get a voltage between the coil and ground (or use your test light)

If there is no voltage and the 12v supply to the coil is good then you have a faulty coil.

If there is a voltage then you have a problem with the points (see points 2,3 and 4 in 'types26/36/74' message above.

Good luck

Andy

[oldokie]

With just a bit of brain fade I've found it quite easy to get the LT wire on the wrong side of the insulator on the points, this WILL kill your spark!

[frearther]

Thanks to all who replied. I had to attend to "normal" things for a time and so just got back to the Elan today.

Indeed, the problem was in the distributor. Types26/36/74 had it right - the connections at the post inside the dizzy were grounded, not insulated. Having fixed that, the problem solved itself.

Thanks, guys.