Elan S3 Coup? 1967 Restoration
59 posts
• Page 1 of 4 • 1, 2, 3, 4
Post by: brian111s » Fri Jan 05, 2007 12:53 am
Hi Gino,
I was told you have a mate there, a mechanic chief who practically rebuild your engine to incredible hight standards and maybe you also gained some useful BHP+.
This project of yours must have costed a lot of ???
)
Cheers.
Brian
I was told you have a mate there, a mechanic chief who practically rebuild your engine to incredible hight standards and maybe you also gained some useful BHP+.
This project of yours must have costed a lot of ???
)
Cheers.
Brian
Last edited by brian111s on Fri Jan 05, 2007 9:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
- brian111s
- New-tral
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 04 Jan 2007
Post by: Frank Howard » Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:19 pm
Gino,
Very nice. I noticed the tires look like they are on the fat side. What size are you using and if they are larger than stock, are you modifying the wheel arches? Thanks for the information and keep up the great work!
Very nice. I noticed the tires look like they are on the fat side. What size are you using and if they are larger than stock, are you modifying the wheel arches? Thanks for the information and keep up the great work!
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1182
- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
Post by: gino1 » Mon Jan 08, 2007 9:42 am
Hi Frank,
The wheels are off a plus two with some 175 Yokos on.
I will be adding on some S2 wheel arches I found on an original race shell to accomodate the extra wheel track.
I've put some adjustable Konis on the rear and some Leda adjustables on the front.
The CV shafts were made up by me using some Alfa bits and quite a bit of lathe work.
The engine has been completely rebuilt, ported, added some high lift cams and meticulously balanced by a very good friend of mine Maurizio who was an ex Novamotor F2 and 3 engine biulder back in the 70's.
We've still to fire here up but the the photo looks very encouraging.
Keep you posted soon.......
Gino
The wheels are off a plus two with some 175 Yokos on.
I will be adding on some S2 wheel arches I found on an original race shell to accomodate the extra wheel track.
I've put some adjustable Konis on the rear and some Leda adjustables on the front.
The CV shafts were made up by me using some Alfa bits and quite a bit of lathe work.
The engine has been completely rebuilt, ported, added some high lift cams and meticulously balanced by a very good friend of mine Maurizio who was an ex Novamotor F2 and 3 engine biulder back in the 70's.
We've still to fire here up but the the photo looks very encouraging.
Keep you posted soon.......
Gino
- Attachments
-
-
gino1 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 514
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Post by: rgh0 » Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:13 am
Hi Gino
Your chassis and drive train looks very nice
However your rear springs look very short and with limited travel especially once you get the body on and the car suspension down to normal ride height.
The lower spring seat normally ends up much closer to the top of the brake disc in most modified rear suspension setups for both road and competition cars.
I would be concerned you may have a rear suspension travel and coil bind problem. You may want to double check your rear suspension spring design calculations.
regards
Rohan
Your chassis and drive train looks very nice
However your rear springs look very short and with limited travel especially once you get the body on and the car suspension down to normal ride height.
The lower spring seat normally ends up much closer to the top of the brake disc in most modified rear suspension setups for both road and competition cars.
I would be concerned you may have a rear suspension travel and coil bind problem. You may want to double check your rear suspension spring design calculations.
regards
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8831
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Post by: gino1 » Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:22 am
Hi Rohan,
These are springs I put on to roll the chassis around.
But I will be asking for some advice on the appropriate springs to fit at a later date.
The car will be set up mainly for track and hill use.
I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
Cheers
Gino
These are springs I put on to roll the chassis around.
But I will be asking for some advice on the appropriate springs to fit at a later date.
The car will be set up mainly for track and hill use.
I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
Cheers
Gino
-
gino1 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 514
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Post by: rgh0 » Sat Jan 13, 2007 12:35 am
Gino
If the car is mainly for track and hillclimb use and limited road use I would try around 150 - 160 lb/in fronts and 110 - 125 lb/in rears and a 22mm ( 7/8th inch) front roll bar, no rear roll bar. This is the same as the Dave Bean stage 3 road race suspension specification in his catalogue. I also space the rear Aeon rubber springs down about 25mm so they come into play earlier, this helps to control the Elans tail happy nature when on the limit a little. I have run this set up for a few years now and I am happy that it works well in wide range of circumstances.
The TTR recommended full race setup is around 250 lb/in front and 150 - 175 lb/in rear. I believe this is a little hard especially at the rear and makes the car more nervous and difficult to handle for an amateur driver like me especially on rough tracks which we have a lot of in Australia or in the wet. However its probably quicker than the softer DB setup on a perfectly smooth track with good grip and a good driver.
cheers
Rohan
If the car is mainly for track and hillclimb use and limited road use I would try around 150 - 160 lb/in fronts and 110 - 125 lb/in rears and a 22mm ( 7/8th inch) front roll bar, no rear roll bar. This is the same as the Dave Bean stage 3 road race suspension specification in his catalogue. I also space the rear Aeon rubber springs down about 25mm so they come into play earlier, this helps to control the Elans tail happy nature when on the limit a little. I have run this set up for a few years now and I am happy that it works well in wide range of circumstances.
The TTR recommended full race setup is around 250 lb/in front and 150 - 175 lb/in rear. I believe this is a little hard especially at the rear and makes the car more nervous and difficult to handle for an amateur driver like me especially on rough tracks which we have a lot of in Australia or in the wet. However its probably quicker than the softer DB setup on a perfectly smooth track with good grip and a good driver.
cheers
Rohan
-
rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8831
- Joined: 22 Sep 2003
Post by: gino1 » Mon Aug 27, 2007 8:32 am
Hi Guys,
During the summer hols, whilst you were all basking under the sun, i started taking the paint of my car, stitching some S1 wheel arches on the rear end, and filling holes !!!
Keep you posted.
Gino
Milano
Italy
During the summer hols, whilst you were all basking under the sun, i started taking the paint of my car, stitching some S1 wheel arches on the rear end, and filling holes !!!
Keep you posted.
Gino
Milano
Italy
- Attachments
-
-
gino1 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 514
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Post by: Frank Howard » Wed Sep 05, 2007 7:04 am
Gino,
I especially like the black cam cover with the gold lettering. Why didn't I think of that?
I especially like the black cam cover with the gold lettering. Why didn't I think of that?
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1182
- Joined: 30 Mar 2004
59 posts
• Page 1 of 4 • 1, 2, 3, 4
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 23 guests
Site map
SitemapIndex
RSS Feed