Restoration of S2 Elan - EOK

[Geoffers71]

Nope, don't think so Fred, speedo cable comes in on the right next to the solenoid.

[Mazzini]

Water temp sender.

[Geoffers71]

I hate to disagree seeing as I know you've just finished your S2 Mazz. and thus know more than I about S2s, but doesn't the temp sender cable go through the bulkhead on the extreme left just above ( or below) where the washer pipe goes through? (See Mark's pic in his post above)


http://images.lotuselan.net/lel/33524/0 ... ad%202.JPG

[Mazzini]

Sorry perhaps I didn't read your post correctly. Hope the photo is of use.

[Geoffers71]

Thanks for the 'photo, but I still can't make out what is happening at the fourth hole. Can you please look at what you have at the place I'm talking about? In a vertical line there is 1) the loom, 2) the heater valve cable, 3) unknown hole 4) heater pipe . I'm beginning to think that maybe there shouldn't be a fourth hole as I can't think what goes in it! Thanks.

[Elanintheforest]

I can't see a 4th hole in this photo Geoff, but the loom may be in the way. This pic shows the heater control cable in your hole number 4, just above the heater hose. If another hole has been used above it, I would guess that it may have been for extra wires for electric washer pump, air horns etc.

I'll double check on the S3 later, but here's a close up of a near-perfect S2.

Mark

[Elanintheforest]

Put the fibreglass kit away. Here's the bulkhead of another S2 I had a while ago.....4 holes.

So it should be there....just got to find out why!

Mark

[Geoffers71]

Yaaay! So I'm not THAT senile just yet. Thanks Mark

[Elanintheforest]

Just checked the S3 and S4, and they both have 4 holes....but the one directly below the loom just has a solid grommet in it. I guess it may be used for something on the left hand drive cars.

Mark

[Geoffers71]

Aah, mystery solved then. Thanks very much Mark, I can now get on with connecting up the rest of the loom.

[Geoffers71]

I seem to be continually being diverted from one job to another, so that I often have 3 or 4 on the go at any one time. Anyone else have this problem? Anyway, I've begun the process of flatting back and buffing up. So far the results are very good, not stunning, just very good. I'm continually in fear of rubbing through to the primer, although reason suggests that with 7 coats of topcoat I'd have to be excessively robust with the old polisher to do that. Still I'm aware that from 3 feet away the finish looks great, but look very very closely and with a strong light and there are minute, very tiny blemishes. Uncertain whether to continue to try and get them out or to leave well alone. The car is not going to be a trailer queen and I don't want to be afraid to use it. Here's a few pics, although they really don't show the finish as such.

As you can see I've been unable to resist fitting a few bits, even though I know I shouldn't be at this stage. It began by just trying out the hood fitting lugs and before I knew it the rest suddenly appeared I may have to remove them again if I decide to have another go at the paint , we'll see
BTW I fitted the windscreen frame and tried to get a new tension tie rod, which is an extended bicycle wheel spoke. However this is 520mm or so long on the Elan, whereas the longest spoke you can buy seems to be around 330mm. When you think about it a spoke 520 mm (over 20 inches) would give a wheel diameter in excess of 45" if you count the hub, some bike that would come off no wonder I got funny looks when I enquired of our local store! So, rather than spend over ?40 for one from the usual suppliers, I refurbed the old one.
I'm pondering where to fit the +ve earth from the battery. Don't want to use the chassis bolt in the bottom of the boot (trunk) and I've read on here folks using the rear turret bolt. Does this mean that the cable runs from the battery back into the cockpit and then up under the felt/carpet to the turret bolt? Alternatively I've read the thread where an extended cable runs through the chassis backbone to the starter/bellhousing bolt. What is recommended? If the latter I'll probably earth the rear lights directly too. Yes?

[Quart Meg Miles]

I'm pondering where to fit the +ve earth from the battery. Don't want to use the chassis bolt in the bottom of the boot (trunk) and I've read on here folks using the rear turret bolt. Does this mean that the cable runs from the battery back into the cockpit and then up under the felt/carpet to the turret bolt? Alternatively I've read the thread where an extended cable runs through the chassis backbone to the starter/bellhousing bolt. What is recommended? If the latter I'll probably earth the rear lights directly too. Yes?

Mine has always been attached to its nearest chassis/body bolt just behind the seat runner by the tunnel. You may need a slightly longer bolt so you can fit a nut on it and I don't see the point of running a longer lead anywhere else. The chassis is a pretty low resistance path even if it is mild steel.

BTW my fourth bulkhead hole also has a blind grommet in it.

[Geoffers71]

You all know the feeling, some days are just not as obviously productive as others Seem to spend too much time looking for that elusive nut for that UNC bolt, when all I seem to have are UNF. Anyway, some steps forward made since last I posted.
Fuel tank is now in.

Had a few fun and games with the sender unit as I couldn't get steady resistance readings when trying to determine which way up to fit it Just hope it's right. Should have cleaned the red paint off the filler connector pipe before fitting

The filler cap seems a bit proud, but wont fit any closer to the body without preventing the clip from operating properly. I guess that's why in later cars the hole in the bodywork is recessed.

I bought this throttle cable from SJ, but it seems to have a lot of brass adjustable bits at the body end compared with what I (dimly) remember. Does it look right?

I suppose it'll work
But this won't

Fan belt is too small. Assuming everything else is right ??
Cleaned up the headlights and vac pods ready to go in and radiator is ready too.
One question; the small water pipes that join the ali tube from the thermostat housing to the rad are still needed, The one nearest the rad has a ridge in it, but SJ say this is no longer available. Anyone know of a source?
Second question; The Tenax fasters that fit into the body come with a shaped washer. Does this washer fit on top of the body, or underneath? Common sense says that it should be next to the nut underneath, but it's shape seems to suggest it fits on top.

[types26/36]

The filler cap seems a bit proud, but wont fit any closer to the body without preventing the clip from operating properly. I guess that's why in later cars the hole in the bodywork is recessed.

One question; the small water pipes that join the ali tube from the thermostat housing to the rad are still needed, The one nearest the rad has a ridge in it, but SJ say this is no longer available. Anyone know of a source.

I could be wrong but I did not think the petrol cap on S1/2's had the flip up cap, thought it was a round twist type which makes it go closer to the body. (I have a round "period" locking type on my S2.)
Clivyboy used to sell those "ridged" hose's but I think they were silicone (shiny)

[Quart Meg Miles]

As Brian says, the petrol cap was round and a bayonet fixing, certainly on the earlier 26s. After I lost two at petrol stops I too fitted a locking cap, made to fit the car for me by Waso at no extra charge.

I got tired of the ridged hoses splitting and fitted plain hose in both places and they're still there after thirty years.