ready to pull

[twincamman]

well there will be some good old English epithets I'm sure ---not a job to be done within 100 feet of a church or school from the looks of it ----hope the air tools will help ---I find difficulty in turning wrenches while jambed on a chassis -- and no beer til the jobs done --then Okeef puts on an extra shift - -ed--WELLLL after lying under the rear of the car awhile [ I REALLY SHOULD GET OUT MORE] it may be easier to undo the sliding spline output shafts --undo the diff case and slide things to the rear to allow the distance needed to slide the drive shaft into the tranny -----comments???? ed----------------------------------------------------------just as an aside my book by Chris Harvey a survey of sports GT and competition cars dewy decimal 629'228 page 155 states ' The Elans were what a mounted to production sports cars with engines giving around 145 hp wider wheels--rose jointed suspension LOV1 style lighting dual circuit braking and a stiffened chassis These machines were designated the type 26R' end quote------ no mention of radiator` material -only it was mounted further forward --but my book only has 185 pages of text

[twincamman]

well the shaft is back in place -----found a kink in the hose for the diff pump cooler system so I changed that ---drained the diff and freshened the hypo id -shmoots and old gasket bits fell out --bit of a buggar of a job as the bolts only move a 1/4 turn ----but its happy now --changing the clutch master cylinder --fix some wireing and were ready to go [ cant do much till Wed as the Cdn celebration races are next week and my friend is WAY behind on car repairs and prep for the event] -- --ed

[elansprint71]

Ed,
Can I ask a dumb question? How does the diff cooler work? Never actually thought about it before, I know there is an air scoop on the sill towards the rear, presumably an oil cooler rad, but what kind of pump? Electric?

Cheers,
Pete.

[twincamman]

yes a dirty great electric pump draws the hypo id in --through the cooler and returns to the diff ----the temp sender screws into the lower plug hole and is sent to the dash --and a a switch in on the dash --[with an aircraft cover if you want to be racey ----]--I am going back to a bulb type sender as apposed to an electric gauge as soon as I can get the original repaired -----ed

[twincamman]

diff sending unit placement----------------please excuse the mess --there is a tone of rerouting and tiding up to do with the wiring and hoses -----ed

[twincamman]

ok ---after chasing circuits around it appears the stupid brake pressure switch has given up ----simple enough ----soon on the road -----ed

[twincamman]

well no doubt your all wondering why a glowing report on how well and fast the car ran after its rebuild ------wellllll the car has run 4 miles at 3000 rpm and the compression went so high as the rings started to seat [ 150 cold] the poor Lucas starter motor went on strike after the second try to start the motor --and the second one --a smaller version--wasnt up to the job --soooooo now [tomorrow or Monday at the latest] a Nissan Denso starter is to be installed ---[that will turn the bitch over ]-stay tuned -- -ed

[twincamman]

WELL IT RUNS CHAMPION ---SMOOTH PULLING [UP TO 6000 RPM ] ---[BREAK IN YOU KNOW ]-----SHORT RUN TO SEE WHAT FALLS OFF ---MOST STAYED ON --AND PUT IT AWAY FOR THE WINTER ------VERY NICE MOTOR INDEED - --ED

[twincamman]

all nice and put up for the winter ----full gas tank -fresh oil -misted cylinder walls --- -ed

[crannyr]

It would appear that your temp sender is above your fluid level.

[twincamman]

yes --=-with most of the fluids constantly leaking on the road or parking area tis always so --the same is so with the smoke emitting diodes supplied by Lucas -ed