Most unsual household item used whilst working on a lotus

PostPost by: handi_andi » Sat Sep 26, 2009 3:59 pm

The process shouldn't pit the surface on steel it simply reveals what is already there, as the process of electrolysis cleaning to which you refer converts the iron oxide, rust, back to iron. For this process to be effective the negative of the battery must be connected to the item to be cleaned and the positive to s suitable piece of steel or copper immersed in the solution. The best material for the electrolyte is washing soda at around 10% dilution according to several on line sources and doesn't have the problem of potentially leaving salt on the surface to attack the steel later. I presently have two upper wishbones hooked up to oen of the lotus batteries in parallel with a battery charger immersed in washing soda and it is doing a nice job of removing the paint and rust. I am slowly working my way through all the front suspension parts using this method as it will only affect corroded areas. There is allot of information on line about this process including what can be used for electrolytes and the pros and cons of them, one of the most useful sites is: http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsae ... lysis.html An in depth discussion of the chemistry involved can be found at: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

I have to admit it took me several attempts to get the method to work, however, now it is working and I have understood that it will not leave a shiny surface in the corroded areas as it is essentially leaving behind iron I am completely taken with it. The system in reverse can also be used, in theory, for plating surfaces with copper or zinc depending on what is connected to the -ve side of the battery with the item to be plated on the +ve side. What ever substances are used just don't forget the process produces hydrogen and oxygen in gas form!!!!

Cheers

Andy
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PostPost by: RichC » Thu May 20, 2010 7:32 am

got some new handbrake pads this week off ebay & the mild steel splitpins in the handbrake calipers were rusted in & disintegrated on removal.
Not being able to lay my hands on stainless replacements for a day or two i used a couple of stainess steel safety pins !
Did the job honourably, & were a lot easier to remove one i had the proper parts to replace 'em.
handbrake caliper may 2010 001.JPG and
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Thu May 20, 2010 12:33 pm

handi_andi wrote:The process shouldn't pit the surface on steel it simply reveals what is already there, as the process of electrolysis cleaning to which you refer converts the iron oxide, rust, back to iron. For this process to be effective the negative of the battery must be connected to the item to be cleaned and the positive to s suitable piece of steel or copper immersed in the solution. The best material for the electrolyte is washing soda at around 10% dilution according to several on line sources and doesn't have the problem of potentially leaving salt on the surface to attack the steel later. I presently have two upper wishbones hooked up to oen of the lotus batteries in parallel with a battery charger immersed in washing soda and it is doing a nice job of removing the paint and rust. I am slowly working my way through all the front suspension parts using this method as it will only affect corroded areas. There is allot of information on line about this process including what can be used for electrolytes and the pros and cons of them, one of the most useful sites is: http://users.eastlink.ca/~pspencer/nsae ... lysis.html An in depth discussion of the chemistry involved can be found at: http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Andy,

I somehow missed the original post on this one, but was ammused by the content in the link to electolytic cleaning. I have to confess that the thought of doing such a thing at home never crossed my mind. In a previous lifetime as a plant engineer, a plating plant was part of my responsibilities, and a 1000 gallon 'stripping tank' as it was called was used to clean rusty virgin parts and to rectify reject parts by stripping off chrome, nickel or copper to get back to the base metal.

I have some dirty rusty front wishbone parts under the bench that I had intended to get shot blasted ready to paint and then sell on fleabay. I now have the desire to electolytically clean them just to prove it can be done (by me).
Brian Clarke
(1972 Sprint 5 EFI)

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PostPost by: billwill » Thu May 20, 2010 3:10 pm

Ah...

I've recently been given a bag of rusty scaffold clamps and I was wondering how best to clean them up. I like the idea of getting Leck Tricity to do it for me.


:lol: :D :P
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PostPost by: handi_andi » Thu May 20, 2010 3:17 pm

It works a treat, some elbow grease still required though every few hours to scrap or lightly wire brush off the loose stuff and to clean copper electrode.
Cheers
Andy
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PostPost by: Gray » Thu May 20, 2010 6:03 pm

Hi

I have used the mesh from an old ironing board to make the grille mesh on my Elan S4. It looks like a modern diamond mesh, not attached the numbers yet.

Gray

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PostPost by: spanner » Thu May 20, 2010 7:40 pm

Fine Lotus craftsmanship in the backwoods.....
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bead breaker.jpg and
bubble balance.jpg and
funnel-bubble balance.jpg and
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PostPost by: billwill » Thu May 20, 2010 7:49 pm

Gray wrote:Hi

I have used the mesh from an old ironing board to make the grille mesh on my Elan S4. It looks like a modern diamond mesh, not attached the numbers yet.

Gray

Elan S4, nine previous Elans, +2s and Europas



Hmmm, if you put the numbers on it, the grill has to be black you realise.
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PostPost by: leifanten » Fri May 21, 2010 4:02 am

I used a tea strainer to make a new oil pan pickup strainer. Works good. Stainless steel.

http://www.strandtea.com/shop/shop-for- ... d_173.html

just break handle and, hey, presto you have a brand new strainer for your oil pickup :D
Leif
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Fri May 21, 2010 7:14 am

I used a Bakelite cookie sheet to make a heat shield between the exhaust manifold and the footwell. The sheet consists of two pieces of aluminum with an air space in between. I held the sheet against the chassis near the exhaust and scribed a line so that it would fit against the chassis without hanging down. I cut off the excess and then screwed it on to the chassis using self tappers. Of course, all of this is much easier to do with the exhaust out however it can be done either way and the benefit of a cool footwell is significant.
Frank Howard
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PostPost by: bob_rich » Fri May 21, 2010 7:26 am

Hi All

To empty out master cylinder reservoir a air lock use in home brew beer and wine making and a couple of bits if rubber or plastic hose can be made into a pipette to suck out the brake fluid. used pliers to crushed the pipe closed when transfer the pipette from cylinder to brake fluid can.

Bob
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PostPost by: RichC » Fri May 21, 2010 7:47 am

Frank, I had to re-read your post 'cos I was thinking bakelite stinks like hell when it gets hot! ( your Bakelite tin is different natch)
....now that would be unusual !
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Fri May 21, 2010 3:03 pm

Rich,

Actually, the Bakelite sheet smells more like chocolate chip cookies after about 3 miles. :wink:
Frank Howard
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