New car arriving

[stuartgb100]

Alex,

It's a nasty job, and care needs to be taken not to end up with a right mess of the the cill bodywork.

While you're doing it, try to work out where the water got in !!

For background help, search the archives on this forum with the word
........ lattice.

Regards,
Stuart.

[stuartgb100]

Alex,

It's a nasty job, and care needs to be taken not to end up with a right mess of the the cill bodywork.

While you're doing it, try to work out where the water got in !!

For background help, search the archives on this forum with the word
........ lattice.

Regards,
Stuart.

[garyeanderson]

:( Well. It is now in Kit form. All looks workable/repairable etc apart from some rust issues (body and chassis) The body is suffering from what I undertand to be the normal rusted out door app' strengthening steelwork. The trellis/truss design no longer applies to this shell as the area where the trusses meet the main 8 mm dia steel bar is .. er...Gone!
As yet I have still to find a fastner that I could put back on the car during rebuild. They are nackered. Rusted to **** ! I now have shares in my local fastner supplier.

Question 1 .. Anyone ever used the door frame repair panels available from Susan Millar?

Question 2.. Anyone recently tackled this repair? From above or below?

Oh... And how well does grp burn? does it go out (the fire!) with water (Hose!!) or do you need anything 'special' to put the flames out

I am about to start removing the rusted main rod that runs along the bottom of the cill and weld in a new section. Hence the fire precautions

Just checking the insurance ....... !!

If you don't laugh you would cry

Body then will go off to Option 1 for the full hit. Their work is wonderfull.

Alex B. <<< ----- (welding goggles on !)

Hi Alex

Here is the link

http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15161

This is the way I replaced them on Andy Bodge's S2 Elan.

Gary

p.s. - water puts out the little fires...

[alexblack13]

Thanks lads

I do feel a lot better now. I was near on suicidal when I discovered that lot so I now know I should have expected it. I will be underway with the repair asap and I will post how the thing is progressing. I spoke to Option 1 sports cars today and confirmed the body delivery to them 2nd week in December with 12 week turnround. He said they do that repair all the time. Needless to say this gave me confidence which you guys just reinforced.

As for where the water got in... Where does it not get in would be a better question. I suspect the answer to the former would be 'everywhere'

Keen to get started to the chassis now. More my forte. I WILL have it completed by the time the body is ready...Come hell or high water. Took the head off and had a look. It looks brand new (much to my surprise!) and is wearing +20 pistons with no measured wear ( I used a bore guage with DTI attached). So, next will be to check the ring gaps etc and hopefully just a light hone and rings with a set of bearing shells whilst its apart, new gaskets, seals, etc should see the bottom end fine. Head is getting new guides and seats, a slight face off and the clearances done.
Finito...

Gearbox will be checked and rebuilt if need be. If not, new seals and back on with a new clutch.

The rest is easy....Once I get the rusty stuff off that is.

Still looking to trade my hardtop for parts I need... Anyone ???

Cheers guys and thanks again.. <<<<----- Still wearing the welding goggles

[Elanintheforest]

Alex, if you're replacing the lattice work altogether, remember the the body should be bolted to the chassis to ensure that you retain the rigidity of the shell and don't introduce a 'twist'. There are no end of stories of bodyshops having to re-do this sort of work, because the doors no longer fit. It would be a great shame, and bloomin expensive, if Option 1 had to re-fix after they had repainted.

Tell them of any work you've done so they can check before they do the cosmetic work. They will then re-assemble the doors on the shell and ensure that the gaps are right prior to painting.

It's also worth thinking at this stage whether or not you want them to fix the kick-out at the bottom rear of the doors...normal on S3 onwards. Now's the time to do it, if you want it done.

Mark

[alexblack13]

Thanks Mark,

Option 1 do the following to restore the elan shell.

Remove all paint and clean bodywhich is then 'fitted to a test jig ass'y then fully inspect shell for previous damage, alignment/dimensions etc. Do any required repairs / re repair any previous accident damage etc. Strengthen at various points. Trial fit and adjust ALL panels/ doors etc and adjust to make shut lines perfect. Fit doors / boot / bonnet etc for pefect fit.
Doors are fitted to the door seals then checked for 'body' fit. If 'kicked out'
they split the door inner from outer panel and cut and fit the outer panel to give correct shut lines and 'fit'.Light pods are 'fitted and checked. Bumpers are trial fitted and set as needed. Lights /cable holes etc are all checked and adjusted as needed. In short ALL the body parts are test fitted and adjusted BEFORE any paintwork is started. NO body filler is used. The entire body is re gel coated prior to starting also. Oh.. and windscreen rake angle is adjusted to fit the door frames (after checking frames on a jig). Then strengthend ( he would not tell me how they do that!!)

If the steel latice is u/s they cut out only the damaged part and weld in new where needed.

All prior to painting beginning..

I have had to strip out the doors and refit the locks. Free off the hing bobbins ( replaced two) supply new door seals and windscreen rubber / bootseal.All for trial fitting. Doors, boot, bonnet, light pods are all fitted to the car when it is returned to you. The + 2 body at the NEC was perfect


Cost is high ish 5 - 6 k gbp. But their work is g/teed in writing.

Turnround is 12 - 14 weeks. Full photo diary is sent to you by e mail, and you get a dvd of all pics taken at every stage of the work

I have already fitted a frame assembly into the car body to support it whilst it is repaired / ''footerd'' with and to help during transport, which will be done with all panels refitted (Doors etc)....

Fingers crossed!

Anyone see the +2 shell at the NEC during the classic car show?? NO??

Been following the Elan resto' in Classic monthly Mag ??

It is V good...

AB.

[Pastapesto]

Alex

Could you please elaborate on " No body filler is used" when Option 1 will be working on your car. How do they intend to prepare the panels to perfection without using bodyfiller? I have yet to see anybody use anything else these days apart from Lead Loading which does not go so well on fibreglass. No, seriously, surely they have to use filler to smooth out all ripples, repairs & any other minor imperfections.

Just curious really, maybe they have perfected a new way of doing it!!
I'd love to know if they have.

Love all the posts though, keep us informed please

Regards

Adam

[alexblack13]

Hi Adam,
No they do not! These guys are super critical of their work. Rather than go thro' the lengthy process of telling you how they do it and as you are obviously a lotus nut like the rest of us, I suggest you obtain a copy of Classic Monthly (or better still some of the back issues also) And read the section in 'Workshop' regarding the body resto' by option 1 sportscars.

I saw that body at the NEC show and I could not fault it. The owner of the company gave me the full rundown on the process and briefly they apply 'Scrim matting' (just under 1 mm thick ) and gel coat to the entire outer body surfaces. This is then shaped flat using long shaping hand sanders . When they have it almost finished they ''dust'' a coat of matt black over the panels and again using LONG flat shaping sanders by hand they work the panels gently once more. Any low spots are shown up using this method and are filled with more gel coat. They do not apply any body filler. The Body when ready is then sprayed with high build primer prior to colour application. The results are astounding.

I corrected a couple of spectators at the show who, whilst looking at the +2 body on the stand announced that it 'was a new body' It was not. I guided them to the photo album of the bodys resto' and left them to look.
They were gobsmacked!!


If you send me an e mail direct I will send you some pics of the +2 at the NEC..,

[email protected]

I have no interest business wise with option 1. But they have my vote and week 2 in Dec they will have my sprint body for resto also....

[alexblack13]

Update.... Have removed the 'Metal' support lattice work from drivers side and cleaned up the area. I can see daylight thro' one or two areas where the fibreglass has been blown apart by rust expansion. The new frame will be built up and lightly 'tacked' into place only. This is to allow the guys at option 1 access to behind the steelwork. They will either weld it up completly or remove it for access as need be (Guess it depends on my workmanship ) Managed to get the erea nicley cleaned up prior to starting the refitting bit so I am very confident they will be able to finish it off with little further work other than repairing the split areas.

<---------- Still got the goggles on !!

Alex B

[alexblack13]

Update on Lattice work.

Started today to fabricate the new bottom lattice work to replace the rusted out original. Took lots of pics and measurements prior to starting and in the end decided on what I hope will be an 'upgrade.

Cut to length 1 pc of 12 mm rebar (concrete rebar that is) Used 12 mm to help stiffen the repair section up. Measured the radius at the rear where the seatbelt mount used to be and found this to be 1.1/2" . Bent the rebar to approx shape after cutting it to approx half the lenght of the cill, and clear of crossbrace meeting point. this allows easier 'fitting' of the part in two half. Trial fitted it till it was bang on and sitting nicely in the groove where the rusted junk came out off.Marked off the cuts etc for the rebar to join existing main rod and the lattice cross parts. Manufactured the cross trusses and welded them onto the rebar main 'longeron'. Made up new corner / seatbelt mount support plate from 1.1/2" x 1/4" bar, drilled it and welded new 7/16 unf nut behind. Finished!

Front part was similar to make apart from no seatbelt mount. BUT I did the same and triangulated the bottom corner for strength. The whole lot sat quite accurate in position. I marked off the joint in the Longeron and remove the parts from the body. I then cut and joined the main longeron with support along the joint 6" long and welded the support along its length to the rebar. Solid.
I have decided to lightly tack it into position for now to allow access by option 1 as I said earlier. The frame ass'y I have made and welded into the body will support it on its journy south.

Passenger side tomorrow.... Same process. Made in two halfs then joined and supported at the join with 6" overlap.

[alexblack13]

Body now with option 1 for refurb etc...

Watch this space for updates etc... How doyou post pics on this site??

[RichardS]

Hi Alex

You can add pics by going towards the bottom of the "post a reply" page and adding your pics as an attachment.

Richard

[alexblack13]

Hi Richard/ All

... Try again then..


Alex B

[alexblack13]

No Luck.. Something i am doing no doubt....



Alex B.

[TeeJay]

Hi Alex,

See instructions here for adding attachments. Also be mindful of the picture size, when I first tried mine were too large so I had to reduce the size.

http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13052