1964 Elan Restoration Project

[DeanG]

I'm at the bottom of VA. Newport News.

It rotoflex vs. CV joints was a tough decision for me. I talked the folks at JAE and they don't sell rotoflex couplings any more. They got a bad batch a few years and had warranty problems. Ray at RD says that he has nice examples but the cost was high, almost 1/3 that of CV joints. If I went to the safety half shafts the cost would have been about 1/2 to 2/3 that of the CV conversion. I want to keep my car as original as possible but I have to draw the line somewhere. I occasionally replace non-original items that I put on the car years ago. It will never be a show car. It will be the car I keep (a SE S3 FHC) unless I can find a nice S2 (I like Clauds), or an Elite. I need to finish up a few things on the car, get some spare time and start driving it.

[jk952]

Very nice find few S1's!! Lots of experts here, ask and they shall enjoy answering. Looks like a pretty good starting point to me, shouldn't take you long.
re your seat comment... clean them up first, hard to tell how bad in dust covered photo's from here. The seat construction is quite simple really so if you have made, make yourself, or buy covers - easy to install, they are held on with hog rings, and some reusable clips on the tubes, and some stay wires in the covers. S1/2 covers were hard to find but Famous Frank had some I think at one time?? I wouldn't be in a rush to remove the windscreen from the frame unless you have a reason rather fiddly to reinstall. Seats and windows lower on your list of priorities I imagine ....
...will be fun...
Jk

[UNCbigM]

Yesterday we finally got back to work on the S1. The engine has been on the stand for too long just sitting.

First, we removed the remainder of the exhaust and then the transmission. Yes, we removed just the engine previously. So now the whole shebang is out.

Next we decided to tackle the tear down of the engine. It is now completely apart with the exception of removal of the front cover. We're having a bit of trouble removing it but may simply give the block to the engine shop with the cover still attached and let them remove it.

As suspected (since I previously let seafoam sit in each cylinder for weeks prior to trying to determine if the engine was seized) the engine was indeed seized at the second and fourth cylinders. Unfortunately I do not know whether it was the reason for the 29 year lay off or whether the stationary engine simply decided it wanted to be one piece of metal instead of many. Everything looked to be in pretty good shape except for the two seized pistons. Eventually we were able to remove all pistons and break the engine down completely.

Now its time to start spending some real money I suppose. My current shopping list includes new pistons, rods, bearings, electric fan, alternator to replace the generator, gasket kit, various hardware, new plugs/wires and a carb rebuild kit.

Suggestions of where to obtain each of these? Also, we would like to install a stud kit if there is one available.

Once I have new pistons it'll be off to the machine shop I suppose.

So that's where we stand as of yesterday. Thoughts? Suggestions?

[Mazzini]

Might be worth seeing what the machine shop needs to bore the block out to before buying the pistons and rings.

[DeanG]

First thing is check to see if the head is flat then check for cracks. Either issue can cause the engine to be scrap. The next would be to get a copy of Lotus Twin-Cam Engine by Miles Wilkins

There is the option of sleeving these engines (or at least there was 30 years ago). For parts I would talk with any of the following: RD Enterprises - PA, JAE - CA, Dave Bean - CA, Sports Car World - TX. There are APT fastener kits for the twincam. Buy

I'm at the point that I would send my engine off to a specialist.

Good luck.

[Famous Frank]

One of the best engine specialist in the country is Barry who owns PHP Racing in Wauconda, Illinois.

950 N Rand Rd Ste 107 Wauconda,
Lake, Illinois (IL),
US - 60084
City : Wauconda,
Mfg Racing Engines
Sales : Unavailable
Contact Person : Ms Barry Sale (President)
Phone : (847)-526-9393

Barry has been doing my Twin Cam Engine work for many many years. He is terrific! He offers the engine can be broken in and dynoed at his facility. You can watch too! He does it all from stock motors to winning race engines.

[knotnuts]

Hank Clarkson is another very good twin cam and Cosworth mechanic. Clarkson Engineering builds engines for several of the Formula Atlantic series cars. He is working on my twin cam right now. He gets very high praises from the drivers that use him. His number is (610) 377-4804, He is located in Pennsylvania. Tell him George sent you!

[Famous Frank]

I meant to post this pic last nite but I got too tired and fell asleep in front of my laptop. This is Barry of PHP working o my TwinCam on the dyno.

[UNCbigM]

Progress has been slow. I have been waiting for an extremely slow machine shop, but they have a very good local reputation and prices seem reasonable. I have attached some pictures of the newly cleaned up and tested and approved head and block.

Some good news was that the block was in better shape than expected. The seized pistons appear to have simply been a result of the car sitting for 29 years and not the reason for taking it off the road. The cylinders were in good enough shape that she shop said I didn't need to bore or sleeve it and instead only needed a simple hone! There were two leaky valves, so we're doing a valve job.

There are also pictures of a curious find. There is a repair on the intake side of the head, which is curious. Looks to be an older repair and fairly sturdy. It almost looks to be a repair as the result of someone dropping it...

[UNCbigM]

In other news we removed the body yesterday! I'm glad we did, as we will have much better visualization while working on the suspension/brakes. My plan at this point is to and and paint the frame with rustoleum.

The real news is what was discovered once the body was off and we got a better look at all the underside goodies... I found a hole in the differential! I'm guessing that this could be the reason the car was taken off the road in 1983! The mystery now is how on earth it occurred. There's not a ton of clearance between several components of the brakes/suspension/wheels, but in the area where the hole is the only thing that comes close are the bolts on the inner part of the rotoflex coupling. But its on the solid side of it, so I can't imagine how it occurred.

Have a look:

[elancoupe]

There are also pictures of a curious find. There is a repair on the intake side of the head, which is curious. Looks to be an older repair and fairly sturdy. It almost looks to be a repair as the result of someone dropping it...

I have an almost identical repair on my cylinder head. No idea what happened, but since it is an ex-racing head, I always assumed it was the result of a shunt.

[UNCbigM]

So....any thoughts on the hole in the diff?

Cause? Repair/rebuild? Replace?

[RotoFlexible]

Previous Rotoflex failure and resulting axle flail? That, or damn' nasty mice.

[types26/36]

So...Cause? Repair/rebuild? Replace?

As said..... rotoflex failing, just weld it up ....I had mine done and bushed the bolt hole..........been fine for the last 15 years

[UNCbigM]

I see how that could cause it, but the rotoflex is in tact, and I can't imagine that occurred from an earlier failure with the rotoflex being replaced and the car driven like that of course.

Unless it failed to the point that it flexed that much under cornering?

Either way, a weld/repair and rebuild of the diff seems safe?

Like I said, I suspect that little hole is what took it off the road 30 years ago.