Resurection - 1967 Elan SE FHC 36/6900
39 posts
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Lubed the window channel with leftover dry lube from my sailing supply. The RH side window now works OK. I disassembled the door latching mechanism, cleaned and lubricated it. I should take it apart bead blast it and paint it but I'll save that for some other time. Here are some detail pictures of how it goes together.
Digital point and shoot cameras are wonderful.
When I went to replace the lock I noticed that the DPO had used the incorrect sized mounting screws. Now they nice new stainless steel.
Digital point and shoot cameras are wonderful.
When I went to replace the lock I noticed that the DPO had used the incorrect sized mounting screws. Now they nice new stainless steel.
- Attachments
- DeanG
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Well the air box was hitting due to having used 2 left hand side motor mounts oh so many years ago. I replaced the RH motor mount with the correct part. Now to put the generator, fuel loom and carbs back on. Maybe I can drive the beast this weekend.
One bolt was killing me. Cleaned up the threads with a tap and all was OK. I took me too long to figure that one out.
One bolt was killing me. Cleaned up the threads with a tap and all was OK. I took me too long to figure that one out.
- DeanG
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Patience, Dean, you'll get there. If it makes you feel any better you are not alone in the "two steps forward, one step back" dance. I pulled the mechanical fuel pump to rebuild it, cross threaded one of the lines reinstalling it and not only had to find another pump body with good threads, but had to pull all the carbs to get enough room to do the removal and reinstall. Sigh
- Ross Robbins
- Third Gear
- Posts: 298
- Joined: 03 Apr 2006
I decided to tackle some of the electrical issues. Years ago I had the instruments rebuilt I guess I didn't do a very good job of replacing them. The fuel gauge wasn't bolted in, there were no wires to it. No grounds to 3 of the gauges. Hopefully all will be well for the weekend. Even if it's not I'm going for a ride if the weather is decent.
- DeanG
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Q. How many nights does it take to get the Elan's horns working?
A. At least 3 but possibly longer. I find it funny how long it takes me to do what should be a simple repair. I started out trying to get the horns to work. The relay clicked. Both horns were dead & 3 connectors needed to be replaced. The replacement horn button needed trimming to fit as did the spring connector. Success! Until the two days later when they didn't work. Replacing one connector and cleaning one bullet let me get the horns to blow when jumpered. Tomorrow I will buy some thin brash stock and form it so that the spring connector has a better chance of contacting the horn button.
I don't understand how some of you folks get so much accomplished. Maybe you are just that much better mechanics that I. If so congratulations, my hat is off to you.
p.s. Saturday I took the Elan to its first car show in decades. On the way home from the Lee Hall, VA show heavy rain and flooded streets cleaned the car well I even lost brakes for a bit. This surprised me since I don't think of disk brakes loosing effectiveness when wet. Other than that the throttle stuck open a few times and then the wire slipped out from the linkage at the peddle. It reminded me of driving the car before I replaced the standard linkage with the linkage sold by RD Enterprises. That I believe I fixed today with a bit of adjustment.
I need to get a good tool roll that I can swap between the Seven & Elan.
There a still a bunch of rattles and such to figure out. That will come in time. The car now has about 50 miles on it since the its period of neglect. I managed one good down-shift. It is easier with CV joints. Still it reminded me of how responsive an Elan can be.
A. At least 3 but possibly longer. I find it funny how long it takes me to do what should be a simple repair. I started out trying to get the horns to work. The relay clicked. Both horns were dead & 3 connectors needed to be replaced. The replacement horn button needed trimming to fit as did the spring connector. Success! Until the two days later when they didn't work. Replacing one connector and cleaning one bullet let me get the horns to blow when jumpered. Tomorrow I will buy some thin brash stock and form it so that the spring connector has a better chance of contacting the horn button.
I don't understand how some of you folks get so much accomplished. Maybe you are just that much better mechanics that I. If so congratulations, my hat is off to you.
p.s. Saturday I took the Elan to its first car show in decades. On the way home from the Lee Hall, VA show heavy rain and flooded streets cleaned the car well I even lost brakes for a bit. This surprised me since I don't think of disk brakes loosing effectiveness when wet. Other than that the throttle stuck open a few times and then the wire slipped out from the linkage at the peddle. It reminded me of driving the car before I replaced the standard linkage with the linkage sold by RD Enterprises. That I believe I fixed today with a bit of adjustment.
I need to get a good tool roll that I can swap between the Seven & Elan.
There a still a bunch of rattles and such to figure out. That will come in time. The car now has about 50 miles on it since the its period of neglect. I managed one good down-shift. It is easier with CV joints. Still it reminded me of how responsive an Elan can be.
- DeanG
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 16 Apr 2011
Hey Dean, I was chasing what I thought was an intermittent contact issue on the horn button; had to make contact several times to get a noise. Turned out the hoses from the little air compressor to the horns was not sealing well. Added hose clamps and tightened them up and works way better. Not sure if yours are even air horns, but worth a shot.
Stu
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1963
- Joined: 03 Sep 2007
After sitting for over a year it was finally time to get going again. During the last outing I was caught in a big rain storm. The throttle cable came off the peddle causing some slow going until I could pull over.
I cranked it without the plugs and saw oil pressure in a few seconds. Plugs replaced and some starting fluid got it going. It needs a good cleaning and some new fuel. Then it is time to and start on the repairs where I left off last year. I should be able to get a few nice laps of the neighborhood before the weather turns too bad to want to take it out.
I cranked it without the plugs and saw oil pressure in a few seconds. Plugs replaced and some starting fluid got it going. It needs a good cleaning and some new fuel. Then it is time to and start on the repairs where I left off last year. I should be able to get a few nice laps of the neighborhood before the weather turns too bad to want to take it out.
- DeanG
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 16 Apr 2011
What exactly is dry lube? My windows are working hard to go up since I installed new window rubber.
Phil
1968 S4/SE FHC 36-7936
1968 S4/SE FHC 36-7936
- pamitchell
- Third Gear
- Posts: 269
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
pamitchell wrote:What exactly is dry lube? My windows are working hard to go up since I installed new window rubber.
I have used SailKote since I bought a big can of it for use on our sailboat.. Truthfully I only put it on the window surround portion so I didn't see a big difference. I should probably use it on some of the other areas.
- DeanG
- Second Gear
- Posts: 90
- Joined: 16 Apr 2011
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