Restoration of S2 Elan - EOK

[elanner]

Yeah, I had seen that, but the idea of torquing rubber seems very strange to me.

I think it's just a matter of ensuring that the diff is held good and steady but that there's some compliance left in the bushes to absorb the shock loads. Presumably, being too tight simply transfers shock loads to the rather puny torque rod studs in the chassis, an area that's prone to cracking.

Nick

[Geoffers71]

But I don't think you're torquing rubber are you? The end of a torque rod, beyond the fixed collar, consists of a plain part and a threaded part. The two rubbers and the diff ear are held on the plain part, the locknut is the only part on the thread and so is tightened against the shoulder of the plain part to the specified torque. Am I right ? ...or have I got it wrong(again)

[rgh0]

That's what I do - tighten the nut until it compresses the rubbers and the nut seats on the end of the threaded section of the torque rod.

Make sure you also make or buy the needed special conical nuts that secure the torque rod onto the stud on the chassis. These seat in the conical cut out in the torque rod end and stop it moving and causing the chassis cracking.

cheers
Rohan

[elanner]

Ah, I see, got it. That's more compression on the bushes than I have, but probably by just a couple of turns. I'll be changing the oil again in a few weeks so check then, if not before.

Where the heck would we be without this forum? Thanks!

Nick

[Certified Lotus]

That's what I do - tighten the nut until it compresses the rubbers and the nut seats on the end of the threaded section of the torque rod.

Make sure you also make or buy the needed special conical nuts that secure the torque rod onto the stud on the chassis. These seat in the conical cut out in the torque rod end and stop it moving and causing the chassis cracking.

cheers
Rohan

I just finished installing new bushings and the metal caps on my torque rods but did not know about the special " conical nuts". Can you be more specific Rohan? Do you have a photo?

Best, Glen

[rgh0]

I can take some photos tomorrow but if you look at your torque rods you will see a conical machining in the hole where it bolts to the chassis on one side. A nut with a conical nmachining on one end to match is required

cheers
Rohan

[Geoffers71]

Actually Rohan, I believe there are two types of Torque Rod, confirmed by reference to Brian Buckland's book. The earlier type didn't have the conical hole whilst the later one did. No idea when the changeover took place though!

[rgh0]

Lotus probably added the conical mount after problems with the chassis cracking due to torque rod movement so I suspect it was relatively early on. A worthwhile mod if you don't have it on an early car.

cheers
Rohan

[Craven]

Hi,
My car late 1966 S3 uses this arrangement.
Ron.

[Certified Lotus]

I don't have that design on my car. No wonder I didn't know what you meant. Will order a new pair as I would like to prevent cracking my new chassis

[Geoffers71]

After nearly 12 weeks of waiting at last I have my windscreen. I fitted it today, not without some issues and with everything, me included, being covered with black screen sealant, but it's in! In the end it looks good, though I had some concerns about the fit as it seems the rubber doesn't overlap the glass by much in some places and in others it's more than enough. Seems the screen itself is not quite the right shape !
There's now an issue with the wipers. I've searched on here, but can't find a definitive answer. What is the correct length of the blades? One of mine is 12" and the other is 11". I can't think that this is right, but which is it? Or are they both wrong, I see 14" being mentioned? Actually the 11" one fits well doesn't overhang the edge of the screen like a longer one would (wipers park on driver's side - RHD)
Also when I picked up the screen from SJ I also ordered door seals (S2 , so seals are on the door), but the seals Steve is selling are the wrong shape Does anyone know where I can get the right seals? , these have a quadrant like profile but at an angle greater than 90 degrees. Once these are fitted I'm pretty much there....well OK a few little issues, but aren't there always?

[collins_dan]

Congratulations! Which method for windscreen install did you use? Gasket around glass, then pull a string through the inside, or gasket into frame, slide windscreen in the bottom and work up? I wasn't thinking I needed to use sealant. Mine is an S4. My impression was gasket fit was tight enough with the locking strip that sealant was not needed. Thanks, Dan

[Spyder fan]

Geoff,
Whilst your screen is bright and shiny new take the time to treat it with Rain X



I hardly need to use the wipers on my cars when I use this, it lasts for ages I bought a bottle 2 years ago and think it will last a couple more before I use it all up. Once a month when you give the car a thorough clean or after you use it in the rain (get caught in the rain).

[Geoffers71]

Dan, I use your first method, rubber seal to frame first then screen into seal. Never been able to use the string method successfully, so just wriggle it in with careful use of a blunt screwdriver.
Never used RainX Alan, but now maybe the time to give it a try
Anyway I've found out that S2 uses 12" wiper blades, but I've fitted the 11" one on the driver's side. It still overlaps the screen rubber a bit, but not as much as a 12" one would. Looks OK
Took her out on her first long (ish) run today, ( beautiful sunny day and hood down), only about 30 mins and to get some fuel. I'm still getting a slight jerkiness when accelerating, although this is not so apparent at a steady speed. She's also spitting and popping on start up from cold, which settles down after a few minutes as she warms up. My initial reaction is that the timing is still not quite right so I'll try advancing it a tad more. I'm not suspecting fuel at the mo, but someone may disagree (?)
But...she does sound glorious and quite lively without overdoing it yet The SE cam on the inlet and the bigger valves are making the difference I reckon. Tickover is still high at 1500 rev/min and it doesn't respond to twiddling
Geoff

[Geoffers71]

Not posted for a bit as I've been mucked about by the firm I chose to manufacture the brackets I designed to carry the seat belt reels (take deep breath). Don't want to bore you with the details, but suffice to say that after 4 weeks of waiting, interspersed by a number of calls by me to no avail and then being asked to pay twice the original quote, i told them to stick them where the sun doesn't shine too often.
Anyway another company made them much nicer and cheaper in a week and so I was able to at last fit my seat belts. Here's a pic or two

The brackets are made from 4mm plate and fixed using the body to chassis bolt and a pair of bolts backed by very substantial backplates. I think they'll be easily strong enough and it looks neat enough.
I've removed the passenger door, fitted the restraining rubber and the door seal and rehung as best I can. Still not perfect, but hey was it ever Got to do the same to the driver's door, but I can't summon up the enthusiasm just yet, Door fitting is the most energy sapping and frustrating activity known to man