My first LOTUS, a 1970 Elan +2
19 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
I'm also in the Austin area (Cedar Park) and I used to daily a 12/1970 +2S. I've also got an S1 E Type, so if you can work on one of those, you'll find the +2 easy to work on. Looks like a sweetheart of a car, and as long as everything is there it should be a nice project. Mark's car is in nice shape and would be a good reference, and I have my S3 Elan torn apart right now if you need to see the inside of something. We can have an Austin Elan owner's gathering once things settle down.
Michael B
Austin, TX
Austin, TX
- fj55mike
- First Gear
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 08 Sep 2006
x75x75x75 wrote:thanks mbell for your input
I don't know what Tbh means but good to hear your opinion.
..................
my plan to revive any dead thing (please help) so far is:
1. Is it worth it? (No issue here)
2. examine frame/body/suspension for any fatal problems (nothing yet)
3. see if engine turns over.
4. Examine/repair fuel system (always something)
5. check for spark, and repair
6. check fluids like oil, radiator, gas tank
7. get fuel into carbs (If electric fuel pump)
8. spin engine dry and set ignition timing
9. spin engine dry and check oil pressure.
10. Check belts, hoses, wiring, solenoids, relays, throttle linkage, air filters, vacuum hoses, etc.
tbh = to be honest
Before you get it going you need to make sure it will stop! Plan on rebuilding the Brake Calipers, Master Cylinders & Servo(s) if you have them.
Phil Harrison
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
1972 Elan Sprint 0260K
-
pharriso - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3187
- Joined: 15 Sep 2010
Your list seems pretty good for getting it going.
On 9, don't be too surprised if you fail to get oil pressure on starter, some do and some don't... (mine doesn't). I suggest disconnecting the oil pressure gauge form the block and pumping some oil to prime in before spinning the engine.
If the fuel level is low enough I'd suggest removing the level sender from the tank (via the boot/trunk) and have a look in to asses the condition and whether it need removing and cleaning before use. You've probably already found the outlet and drain plug (probably seized) under the tank behind the rear chassis upper cross member.
I agree with Phil that a rebuild of brakes would be wise, just standard Girling stuff so easily available and not difficult. Once its running I'd suggest changing all the fluids.
On 9, don't be too surprised if you fail to get oil pressure on starter, some do and some don't... (mine doesn't). I suggest disconnecting the oil pressure gauge form the block and pumping some oil to prime in before spinning the engine.
If the fuel level is low enough I'd suggest removing the level sender from the tank (via the boot/trunk) and have a look in to asses the condition and whether it need removing and cleaning before use. You've probably already found the outlet and drain plug (probably seized) under the tank behind the rear chassis upper cross member.
I agree with Phil that a rebuild of brakes would be wise, just standard Girling stuff so easily available and not difficult. Once its running I'd suggest changing all the fluids.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2643
- Joined: 07 Jun 2013
fj55mike wrote: Mark's car is in nice shape ...
Thanks Michael, not sure I agree thou. Its working and slowly improving but still quite tatty in a few area (e.g. paint and suspension).
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
- mbell
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2643
- Joined: 07 Jun 2013
19 posts
• Page 2 of 2 • 1, 2
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: Elanman99 and 48 guests