1972 Sprint

[dmreeceuk]

As for the booster, I removed mine and replaced the pads with "green stuff" pads.
I notice the brakes are much firmer and positive and you still dont need that much effort.

Honestly you dont need big thigh muscles and my wife prefers it to her heavily servo'd golf

If the booster is a problem sling it out!

Dave
elan s4 1970 (not a sprint or even an SE )

[joris]

Dave


Thanks for your rather " radical " advice. I also thought of that possibility but I think I will try to solve the problem by using one of the methods given by the other fellows. But indeed if the problem remains ...I will be very tempted.
At least to give it a try.

Merry Christmas.

Joris

[elansprint71]

My Sprint will be getting disassembled shortly to change the chassis- I'll be junking the brake servo (booster) and fitting +2 discs/calipers with greenstuff pads. According to those who have already gone this route, it is the best set-up available (and it saves weight too).

Cheers,

Pete

[joris]

Hi Guys

Well I have reassembled the car with all the new parts mentioned earlier.
Today I tried to start the engine...and ( to my surprise ? ) it did from the first time.
So far so good...when keeping the engine idling at 1000 to 2000 RPM . But getting over the aprox 2000 revs results in the engine " taking of " herself to 4000 - 5000 ( and perhaps more but I then switch the ignition of ) RPM.
When disassembling I never touched the carbs , I only took them off the inlet manifold.
I checked the timing ignition which I think is OK, I checked on air " leaks " which again I think is all OK, I also disconnected the throttle cable ...
So does any of you guys have any idea where this amature mechanic went wrong?

Thanks


Joris

[type36lotus]

Joris,

Are the return springs still on the carbs? Is the return spring for the throttle cable installed?

Mike G.

[types26/36]

Joris,
The carbs are mounted with "thackary washers" this enables them to move and absorb vibrations so the fuel does not froth. By removing & refitting the carbs it is unlikely you have got them in the exact same position as before. This in turn will upset the balance (one carb in relation to the other) The carbs must not be mounted solid to the manifold.
Take off the air box and listen with a tube if the two front intakes are sucking the same amount as the rear two, (there is also a tool to do this) You can equalize the two carbs by adjusting the screw/spring between the two carbs, you will also have to adjust the idle screw as well. When you have the carbs balanced and a steady idle you can then adjust the idle mixture (one per intake) ....4 untill you get the best settings.
It sounds complicated but its not. :rolleyes:
Dont know if this is your problem but its worth a shot.
Brian.

[joris]

Mike, Brian


Sorry for the delay in replying and thanks both of you for your help.
To be honest the problem was due to a stupid mistake in connecting the linkage between the two carbs ( effectuated by my younger brother but my fault I should have checked or for sure have noticed when malfunctioning...). Therefore the " throttle discs " in one carb didn't shut completely.
They seem to work fine now but I will try to adjust them anyway, Brian.
I have a " vacuum meter " which I use to adjust the SU's on a TR 250 which is also in the family. ( I just can't hear the difference with a tube!).
Sorry chaps for not being able to put everything in words as I would really want , but that is all the English I picked up at school...some while ago.


Greetings from Vlaanderen ( Belgium )


Joris