Another Sprint on the Block

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Now I've had the chance to have a good look around and re-aquaint myself with the joys of Elan ownership. Already doing a few maintenance tasks and remedials, Engine mounts; heater control valve making its way into the footwell. Hand break, Weber mounts bolted up tight to the head, no thackery washers. Tried to bleed the brakes but was unable to undo the rear bled nipple so left that till later rebuild. Generally been having a whale of a time like a pig in s***. Sorry for the mixed metaphor.
Will post a few pictures whan I have figured out how.
Regards MickG

Wot, there are or were no thackery's?
Fuel shaken not stirred?
What have you done with the heater control valve? Sounds interesting.
Good to hear you're enjoying playing with the new "toy" & it does look good.
Oh, "spell check" seems not to work with you; sarcasm not intended, just a bit of a giggle

Cheers
John

[MickG]

The heater control valves excursion into the foot well is due to worn engine mounts, replacing those. The problem I have at the moment is the handbrake cable. Thought I had it cracked by tying stout fishing braded line and pulling thorough with the intention of pulling back with new cable attached That was until the line got caught around my foot and I pulled the lot out Any ideas on the easiest solution on how to now install the cable, a bit difficult to see where it is supposed to exit the chassis at the rear.

Duly spell checked, no offence taken

Regards Mick

[alexblack13]

It looks a nice car!

Should the wheels not have been a satin black Tim?

Al' ......

[alexblack13]

It's a bit of a fishing trip Mick and the cable should have a small exit hole in the chassis in line with the 'tree' cable attachment point. It should be possible to pass a stiffish wire through the chassis via this hole and use this as a 'mouse'. I found the cable on the Sprint approx 80mm too long, so I cut off the nipple at the tree end. This helped when threading it through the chassis, and was easier to attach to my 'mouse' cable for pulling gently through.

I then attached a specially made 'clamp on' stainless nipple and set up the handbrake with the cable adjustment screwed fully home. The handbrake will work well if properly set up.

There are some previous posts regarding the handbrake and cable.. You should find them with a search.

All the best with it...

[MickG]

Thanks for the advice Alex. Looks like an early fishing trip for me then. I think you are mixing up my photo's with those from RKovener . Mine is definitely a right hand drive in both photo's.

[gjz30075]

If still having problems with fishing, don't forget the large access hole on the rh side of the chassis. I believe its there for access to the prop shaft to gearbox tailshaft, should one need it. Might have to remove carpeting to get to it, though.

Greg Z

[alexblack13]

OOps sorry! Old age does not travel alone Mick. I will edit the post...

Hope the cable job goes well.. It will...

AB...

[trw99]

It looks a nice car!

Should the wheels not have been a satin black Tim?

Al' ......

Yes, originally they came in a satin, low gloss black finish. The gloss black wheels are easier to keep clean though!

Tim

[elansprint71]

Two more Sprints- excellent!

If it all goes wrong with the brake bleed nipple, Classicar Automotive in Chelford, Cheshire are the folks to talk to. Paul Matty seems to supply all his hand-brake cables too long and only one shape of nipple now. 71 car might have either type of handbrake handle- with the white release or twist release. Different nipple for each but not too hard to modify but the Grumpy Bodger speaks sense. Don't forget to check the (rubbish) rubber doughnuts for cracks.

[MickG]

All immediate jobs now completed ready to start and tune her up tomorrow. The hand break cable was ordered from Sue Millar and apart from my inept left foot pulling out the draw wire it went reasonably well. A few technical difficulties that I am sure you have all encountered so I wont bore you with it step by step here. The cable was in fact the exact length with the adjuster screwed halfway, having heard of the tales of woe from some of you I was pretty pleased.
Thanks for all your advice and help so far I am sure I will be in need of it again in the future.
Regards Mick

[alexblack13]

sue miller now has them made to the correct lenght. I gave her the dimension when i did the cable mod some time ago. I told her to have them made 80mm shorter from memory. Sounds like a result!
Good job! Glad you got it fitted Mick.
ab....

[MickG]

I seem to be creating more problems than solutions at the moment. Trying to get the headlamps working on dip beam found to be a faulty relay, must of just happened after the MOT last week Now the windows go down but not up. Think I should stop looking as the troubles seem to be finding me on their own. That?s not to mention the bouncing needle on the rev counter (Electronic ignition fitted by PO RVI rev counter).
Happy days
Mick

[elansprint71]

I seem to be creating more problems than solutions at the moment. Trying to get the headlamps working on dip beam found to be a faulty relay, must of just happened after the MOT last week Now the windows go down but not up. Think I should stop looking as the troubles seem to be finding me on their own. That?s not to mention the bouncing needle on the rev counter (Electronic ignition fitted by PO RVI rev counter).
Happy days
Mick

Mick,
There is a load of info about the bouncing rev counter in the Tech section of the forum. The windows usually have a permanent supply to power them down but fed via the ignition switch to power them up (this is to allow fitting of tonneau without having to put the key in). There is an AO size .cad colour wiring diagram file on this site somewhere, which is worth getting a copy of. Thanks to Gareth.