Restoration of S2 Elan - EOK

[Geoffers71]

Update: I've now finished off all the electrics and everything works Headlamps, flashers. horn everything Dash is now properly installed and Steering wheel and gearstick in, beginning to look like a real car

I've also fitted the Marston radiator. Another really fiddly job, a real struggle due to the limited access underneath. Givnig my swearing vocabulary a good old airing though

Getting closer to actually starting her up soon .....just a bit scarey, but can't keep putting it off. Just have to get the exhaust system fitted and that means raising the car somehow as we've discussed. Gotta go for it

[sclemow]

I purchased a lift and tilt ramp, then suitably modified it to suit the Elan.


Details upon request.

Regards,

Phil

Sorry about the thread hijack but I'd be interested in how you solved this - I am about to start restoring my newly acquired S2 and have been considering a tilt and lift ramp.

Simon

[Geoffers71]

I baulked a bit over the price of a lift/tilt ramp (hardly worth it at my age! ) so instead I managed to jack up the car high enough to get the front wheels onto my car ramps. This gives me about 18" at the front, just enough to manage to fit the exhaust. Mind you it took me over 2 days to do it , just incredible how often I had to dismantle what I'd already done because of some clearance issue. Still it's in now, but it's left me with a problem. The 'Y' piece that joins the header to the central pipe now neatly covers the clutch slave cylinder, so that I have a problem getting a spanner on the nipple to bleed the system. I can just get two fingers on the nipple (Oooer) and because it wasn't too tight could just loosen it enough. However there's no way I can get a spanner on there to tighten it properly. Can't get a socket in there. Anyone else had this problem and if do what is the solution. Bit much to have to dismantle the exhaust system should I I need to bleed the clutch, besides after all the trouble I had fitting it I'm reluctant to take it off again!!

[gjz30075]

My solution:
lotus-elan-f19/what-does-your-elan-plus2-look-like-today-t23626-375.html

pg. 26

Greg Z

[Geoffers71]

Greg, Thanks, that's a very good solution, I'll see what I can do along those lines. I only wish I'd known about it before I'd fitted the exhaust Thanks again.

[Rozzer]

An addition to the remote bleed point that Geoff has suggested is to run the loose end up into the engine bay and mount the bleed nipple on the bulkhead - that way you can avoid having to jack the car to bleed the clutch.

[Geoffers71]

SHE LIVES !!! (Well after a fashion !)
Connected everything up, rechecked timing at 12 deg BTDC ( I have Accuspark electronic ignition), topped up the carbs with fuel, charged up the battery and pressed the button. After a few turns she fired and ran......very badly readjusted dizzy and tried again, after a few turns she fired again and again very rough. Only firing on front two cylinders, nothing at the back two confirmed by removing plug leads of 3 and 4, which made no difference. Checked spark at all plugs, all there! Plugs 1 and 2 were blackened, 3 and 4 were absolutely clean, no sign of having fired. Tried several times more with same results to start with and then nothing, not even trying to start. Checked fuel and I don't think that there was any fuel in the glass bowl of the pump ( difficult to see). Took top off carbs and little fuel to be seen, so fuel not coming through. I'd only put probably less than two gallons in the tank, which I would have thought was enough, but the car is nose up, so maybe not .....dunno! What do you Gurus think?
Anyway battery needs charging now, so no more efforts until tomorrow. Should I put more fuel in? What else prevents fuel coming through? I checked the pump before I installed it and it seemed to work OK. How can I check that the rear carb is pulling it's weight? Initial mixture screws 2 turns out, balance screw right out.

[gjz30075]

Pull the airbox and check down the throats (might require a mirror) to see if fuel is being squirted when the throttle is worked.



Greg Z

[Famous Frank]

Might check to see thar the needle valve in the 3/4 carb isn't stuck not allowing fuel to get in the carb.

Frank

[Geoffers71]

Yep, 'twas fuel No fuel being delivered from the tank. So I bought one of those rubber squeezy bulb type things and fitted it in the boot. Once I'd remembered to prime it first (it's been a long time since I owned outboard motors, and doesn't premium fuel taste so much better than the standard stuff ) It delivered fuel to the carbs no problem. Commenced starting procedures again and after some judicious adjustment of the dizzy she fired and ran on all 4 cylinders. Lots of smoke as the exhaust manifold and the engine burnt off surface oil, but not bad at all. Just a few issues, the main one being she won't idle on her own below 3000 revs. I can push the throttle closed and the idle drops, but when the pressure is off she returns to 3k revs. I don't know if it's the return spring which is not strong enough or some issue with fouling (on the fuel pipe for example). Underneath the carbs does need rearranging as the heater pipe and the fuel pipes should be changed around for a start. A small water leak from the bottom rad hose and the vacuum take off on the left needs plugging, but otherwise very satisfactory. Of course I haven't yet balanced the throttles or adjusted idle screws, that will be the next task. Overall very happy that I got all the mechanical timing right, and there were no serious issues (touches wood ). Just got to sort out the minor problems and give her a final tune. So satisfying to think that the car
now has a running engine in her for the first time in over 40 years

[Geoffers71]

A little more progress, but why does it seem always to be one step forward, two back every time Anyway sluggish starter motor a bit improved by connecting a new earth lead from the starter bolt to the chassis, but still not terrific. Except when engine is warm, when it starts immediately I press the button. Idle speed is still too high at 1500 rev/min., but I can't seem to get it lower. I had a bit of a vacuum leak at the take off points for headlamps and servo (no servo of course), which when fixed helped to lower it about 750, but I can't get it lower. Physically the butterflies won't close any more. Can't find any other vacuum leaks. I've balanced the chokes using my newly bought gizmo so they're pretty reasonable except for No 1, which is a touch lower than the rest indicating a slightly bent spindle. I've timed the ignition using a strobe, but because of the high revs (1500) it's set at around 20 deg BTDC. Is that about right? I had a popping at first which turned out to be a leak in the exhaust manifold, which was easily fixed. The engine sounds lovely when running, just a bit too fast. Any ideas chaps ?
Another issue I had was that the ignition warning light was not extinguishing. I checked the dynamo output using the recommended method and couldn't get a reading. So, removed it and tested it on the bench. All seemed good, so I put it all back together, re-installed it and re-tested. Over 14.5 volts at 1500 revs, so no problems there No idea what I did wrong the first time round or what I did to solve the Issue , but the light is still not going out. Need to check out the control box next, well at least to clean the contacts as I'm not too comfortable with doing much else to it . Any other possible reasons for the light staying on?
Sorry I seem to have gone on a bit, it's just nice to be able to share what I'm thinking and doing with other like minded folks. I'm just a sad old lonely b****r all alone in my little garage. .....
... and to answer someone's query earlier I guess my user name should now be Geoffers72 !!!!!

[Spyder fan]

The following link may be helpful to ensure you are adjusting the carburettors correctly,
http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/d ... ical_i.htm

[mbell]

I am presuming you have webbers, for the high idle I'd first be see if the throttle plates are almost fully closed at idle.

I'd remove the airbox cover and progression hole cover on the carbs. Then shine a touch/flashlight down the carb throat . You should then be able to see the throttle plates position relative to the progression holes by looking for the light in the progress holes. Light = throttle plate in front of the hole, dark = throttle plate behind hole.

With the idle screw full in you should be able to see light in all the progression holes and the throttle plate (darkness) should very quickly move across the first hole as the idle screw is adjusted.

Also best to disconnect the throttle cable to ensure it's not holding the throttle very slightly open.

[Geoffers71]

Thanks for the tips guys.
Alan, the article was very useful, I've printed it off
MBell, I've tried your torch idea and it works very well. To start all 3 progression holes were visible. Just a tiny movement of the throttle setting ( 1/4 turn) was enough to cover the first hole in all four throttle intakes at the same time, so not much wrong there. I decided to fix up a separate spring system to assist the standard spring to fully close the butterflies. This has helped drop the revs a bit, but this has made me realise that I now believe that the rev counter is reading too high. With the engine only just keeping going the rev counter is still reading 1200 revs.. I estimate that this is probably double the actual revs. I've fitted Accuspark electronic ignition and their sports coil, might this be a reason? Should I try a different coil? The rev counter is the external loop type with just the one single loop. I've read that the counter can be recalibrated by twiddling something at the back or perhaps removing the loop altogether. Is this a feasible possibility? As usual any helpful suggestions much appreciated

[gjz30075]

You can get an aftermarket rev counter fairly inexpensively, and they have only three wires: 12v, neg side of coil, and ground. Great for testing purposes. I used one to determine my rev counter was off in the middle range which convinced me to do the complete conversion to the later type.

Greg Z