New parts
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Hi everyone,
We are a significant step further in restoring my Lotus Elan Sprint.
We spent a lot of time to put together the parts that we needed to change. The plan is to restore and not to just change everything. Then we think it loses it’s dna. So some things like chrome parts that clean up but not perfectly will be re used. Everything that can be cleaned will be cleaned.
Some upgrades will be done like replacing the donuts. The exhaust manifold was dented on some places so a stainless steel will be fitted. I intend to heat wrap them with titanium wrap.
The engine is completely apart and new rod bearings are needed due to wear. Anybody has an advice on which ones to buy? I know it for a S85 V10 but not for the Ford/Lotus.
If anyone has a set of chrome rings for the Sprint wheels I am interested.
Best Regards,
Martijn
We are a significant step further in restoring my Lotus Elan Sprint.
We spent a lot of time to put together the parts that we needed to change. The plan is to restore and not to just change everything. Then we think it loses it’s dna. So some things like chrome parts that clean up but not perfectly will be re used. Everything that can be cleaned will be cleaned.
Some upgrades will be done like replacing the donuts. The exhaust manifold was dented on some places so a stainless steel will be fitted. I intend to heat wrap them with titanium wrap.
The engine is completely apart and new rod bearings are needed due to wear. Anybody has an advice on which ones to buy? I know it for a S85 V10 but not for the Ford/Lotus.
If anyone has a set of chrome rings for the Sprint wheels I am interested.
Best Regards,
Martijn
- MartijnElanS4
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MartijnElanS4 wrote:The engine is completely apart and new rod bearings are needed due to wear. Anybody has an advice on which ones to buy? I know it for a S85 V10 but not for the Ford/Lotus.
The Lotus/Ford has better designed bearings than the BMW S85 V10 engine in that they don't fail during the course of normal use so it's not particularly fussy about bearings. I used Mahle Motorsport bearings in my engine. Suggest you replace all the bearings whilst you are in there and not just the rod bearings.
1970 Ford Escort Twin Cam
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
1972 Ford Escort GT1600 Twin Cam
1980 Ford Escort 2.0 Ghia
Peugeot 505 GTI Wagons (5spdx1) (Autox1)
2022 Ford Fiesta ST.
- 2cams70
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Hi Martin,
How many miles on the clock.
Has it been rebored.
I hope your'e not going to put that plastic fan on the water pump flange. Certainly not original. Should be electric fan infront of Rad.
Alan
How many miles on the clock.
Has it been rebored.
I hope your'e not going to put that plastic fan on the water pump flange. Certainly not original. Should be electric fan infront of Rad.
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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Hi Alan,
Thanks.
It has 86360 kms and its a first owner car belonging to my uncle. It has the electric fan but this is the one attached to the waterpump. Isn’t that correct?
As far as I know it is original internally but I’ll check with my uncle.
Martijn
Thanks.
It has 86360 kms and its a first owner car belonging to my uncle. It has the electric fan but this is the one attached to the waterpump. Isn’t that correct?
As far as I know it is original internally but I’ll check with my uncle.
Martijn
- MartijnElanS4
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Hi!
Yes the original BMW bearings aren’t great and therefore I will fit BE bearings from the US following the advice of my BMW specialist garage who has 3 V10’s himself.
Thanks for the advice. We are going to the change the crankshaft/main bearings as well if that’s what you mean.
Best regards
Martijn
Yes the original BMW bearings aren’t great and therefore I will fit BE bearings from the US following the advice of my BMW specialist garage who has 3 V10’s himself.
Thanks for the advice. We are going to the change the crankshaft/main bearings as well if that’s what you mean.
Best regards
Martijn
2cams70 wrote:MartijnElanS4 wrote:The engine is completely apart and new rod bearings are needed due to wear. Anybody has an advice on which ones to buy? I know it for a S85 V10 but not for the Ford/Lotus.
The Lotus/Ford has better designed bearings than the BMW S85 V10 engine in that they don't fail during the course of normal use so it's not particularly fussy about bearings. I used Mahle Motorsport bearings in my engine. Suggest you replace all the bearings whilst you are in there and not just the rod bearings.
- MartijnElanS4
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Hi Martin,
On my Sprint it was about same kms.
When i removed Pistons no wear in cylinders but a few piston Rings broken . Also piston Ring grooves worn.
I deglazed cylinders and bought a set of standard pistons. If never rebored you can find standard original pistons cheap at sjsportscars. I also fitted Vandervell bearings which i like. New Oil Pump also.
There should not be the plastic fan on water pump pulley.
Have fun
Alan
On my Sprint it was about same kms.
When i removed Pistons no wear in cylinders but a few piston Rings broken . Also piston Ring grooves worn.
I deglazed cylinders and bought a set of standard pistons. If never rebored you can find standard original pistons cheap at sjsportscars. I also fitted Vandervell bearings which i like. New Oil Pump also.
There should not be the plastic fan on water pump pulley.
Have fun
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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Hi Alan,
Thanks for the feedback and tips. Much appreciated!
I’ll keep you posted.
Martijn
Thanks for the feedback and tips. Much appreciated!
I’ll keep you posted.
Martijn
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Martijn, I tried wrapping my stainless exhaust manifold but was never really happy with the effort.
I had the pieces ceramic coated inside and out, which reduced the heat somewhat. I also attached some foil faced insulation to the fibreglass bulkhead around the exhaust which seemed a better solution to heat.
All the best.
Stu
I had the pieces ceramic coated inside and out, which reduced the heat somewhat. I also attached some foil faced insulation to the fibreglass bulkhead around the exhaust which seemed a better solution to heat.
All the best.
Stu
Stu
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1969 Plus 2 Federal LHD
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stugilmour - Coveted Fifth Gear
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stugilmour wrote:Martijn, I tried wrapping my stainless exhaust manifold but was never really happy with the effort.
I had the pieces ceramic coated inside and out, which reduced the heat somewhat. I also attached some foil faced insulation to the fibreglass bulkhead around the exhaust which seemed a better solution to heat.
All the best.
Stu
I did the same plus put some foil faced inualtion on the hood above the exhaust as that got very hot also especially when the car was stopped from heat soak
cheers
Rohan
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rgh0 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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+1
The Tony Thompson competition manifold gets very close to the side of the passenger footwell, so much so it was beginning to char the glassfibre - which I was not happy with. I have seen others who race who have cut the footwell back and have glassed in a new bulkhead to avoid this.
My solution was to wrap the manifold in heat resistant tape and to mount metal backed insulation between the manifold and footwell. This may work for you.
I tried self adhesive heat shielding first which lasted about 10 minutes before the glue melted - it needs to be rigid and screwed on. Even with this, the heat is beginning to cook the paint off the firewall above the manifold. Demon Tweeks offer a large range of heat management products (at a price). I bought the products I used from here:
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/motorsport/car-preparation/heat-shielding-protection/
The Tony Thompson competition manifold gets very close to the side of the passenger footwell, so much so it was beginning to char the glassfibre - which I was not happy with. I have seen others who race who have cut the footwell back and have glassed in a new bulkhead to avoid this.
My solution was to wrap the manifold in heat resistant tape and to mount metal backed insulation between the manifold and footwell. This may work for you.
I tried self adhesive heat shielding first which lasted about 10 minutes before the glue melted - it needs to be rigid and screwed on. Even with this, the heat is beginning to cook the paint off the firewall above the manifold. Demon Tweeks offer a large range of heat management products (at a price). I bought the products I used from here:
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/motorsport/car-preparation/heat-shielding-protection/
68 Elan S3 HSCC Roadsports spec
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
71 Elan Sprint (still being restored)
32 Standard 12
Various modern stuff
- Andy8421
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On my Sprint there is some sheet alloy riveted to body to protect from heat. Fitted by st Miles or if not at Tollgate Engineering by Terry Tozer when built from Kit.
Alan
Alan
Alan.b Brittany 1972 elan sprint fhc Lagoon Blue 0460E
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I have found that using some spacers/washers on the fasteners between a metal shield and the body, for a gap to to permit air circulation between the shield and the body. This seems to protect the fiberglass and reduces the transfer of heat.
Rob Walker
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Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
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Hi,
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions about heat control in the engine bay. I will look into all options and get back to what we have chosen to go for.
Have a great day,
Martijn
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions about heat control in the engine bay. I will look into all options and get back to what we have chosen to go for.
Have a great day,
Martijn
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MartijnElanS4 wrote:Hi,
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions about heat control in the engine bay. I will look into all options and get back to what we have chosen to go for.
Have a great day,
Martijn
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