Chassis conundrum!!!!
9 posts
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Hi all,
If any one has seen my last post you will know I now have my chassis tucked away in my barn. On further inspection the chassis (on the whole) is in really good condition. It seems to have been painted with some sort of very strange metallic mauve paint (possibly Hammerite??). However, there are a few chips and scratches down to the metal, probably where it has been stored etc !
My question is... Is it worth sand blasting (or dipping or sodablasting) and then powdercoating or sand down the chips/scratches, give them a good coating of etch primer and then giving the whole chassis a repaint (after proper prep work)?
I can happily send photos, only I am at work at the moment and will need to do it later.
*Again I have posted this question elsewhere so please don't worry about answering both posts
Simon
If any one has seen my last post you will know I now have my chassis tucked away in my barn. On further inspection the chassis (on the whole) is in really good condition. It seems to have been painted with some sort of very strange metallic mauve paint (possibly Hammerite??). However, there are a few chips and scratches down to the metal, probably where it has been stored etc !
My question is... Is it worth sand blasting (or dipping or sodablasting) and then powdercoating or sand down the chips/scratches, give them a good coating of etch primer and then giving the whole chassis a repaint (after proper prep work)?
I can happily send photos, only I am at work at the moment and will need to do it later.
*Again I have posted this question elsewhere so please don't worry about answering both posts
Simon
- Simmie C
- First Gear
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 12 Jul 2023
I would advise against powder coating-too many negative experiences for my peace of mind.
Personally I had my (very good original) chassis sand blasted then I brush painted it with two coats of POR15 grey. Eight years later and after 15000 miles of Hard use-much of it on gravel roads-there is not a chip in the paint. If a chip does occur I can easily touch it up with a brush. This stuff is amazingly tough, withstands brake fluid and looks good. Only problem that I am aware of is that it is either black or grey.
Personally I had my (very good original) chassis sand blasted then I brush painted it with two coats of POR15 grey. Eight years later and after 15000 miles of Hard use-much of it on gravel roads-there is not a chip in the paint. If a chip does occur I can easily touch it up with a brush. This stuff is amazingly tough, withstands brake fluid and looks good. Only problem that I am aware of is that it is either black or grey.
'65 S2 4844
- Davidb
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 889
- Joined: 02 Jul 2009
Powder coatings a fantastic application when done correctly and not done on the cheap via the back door ie etch primed and prepared correctly.
Powder coating in many vehicle applications is guaranteed for 25 years +, even football stadium metal work seating is guaranteed against rusting for 25 +years.
Powder coating in many vehicle applications is guaranteed for 25 years +, even football stadium metal work seating is guaranteed against rusting for 25 +years.
- greg40green
- Second Gear
- Posts: 213
- Joined: 02 Dec 2007
I had my chassis stripped, primed with a powdercoat zinc phosphate primer, then color coated with the closest color I could find to match the stove enamel red. We will see how it goes....
There is no cure for Lotus, only treatment.
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StressCraxx - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1278
- Joined: 26 Sep 2003
Hi
I had to decide how to protect a new TR6 chassic. Decided against powder coating as it can be an issue if it chips and water gets underneath. Common issue on TVRs.
I ended up using epoxymastic which is a 2 pack brush pm paint and then chassis paint. The epoxymastic is really hard, is unmarked by jacking, and adheres really well. You just have to paint it on quickly before it sets.
Tim
I had to decide how to protect a new TR6 chassic. Decided against powder coating as it can be an issue if it chips and water gets underneath. Common issue on TVRs.
I ended up using epoxymastic which is a 2 pack brush pm paint and then chassis paint. The epoxymastic is really hard, is unmarked by jacking, and adheres really well. You just have to paint it on quickly before it sets.
Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
- shynsy
- Second Gear
- Posts: 104
- Joined: 15 Mar 2023
[quote="shynsy"]Hi
I had to decide how to protect a new TR6 chassic. Decided against powder coating as it can be an issue if it chips and water gets underneath. Common issue on TVRs.
I ended up using epoxymastic which is a 2 pack brush pm paint and then chassis paint. The epoxymastic is really hard, is unmarked by jacking, and adheres really well. You just have to paint it on quickly before it sets.
Tim
Hi Tim,
What was the make of the Epoxymastic you used? Sounds like good Stuff!!!
Simon
I had to decide how to protect a new TR6 chassic. Decided against powder coating as it can be an issue if it chips and water gets underneath. Common issue on TVRs.
I ended up using epoxymastic which is a 2 pack brush pm paint and then chassis paint. The epoxymastic is really hard, is unmarked by jacking, and adheres really well. You just have to paint it on quickly before it sets.
Tim
Hi Tim,
What was the make of the Epoxymastic you used? Sounds like good Stuff!!!
Simon
- Simmie C
- First Gear
- Posts: 18
- Joined: 12 Jul 2023
The stuff I used was made by Jotun for marine applications. They do a number of different formulations now. Not sure which one I used.
Tim
Tim
Current Cars: '72 Elan +2S130/5, '72 Triumph Stag 3.9L, '72 Spitifire Mk IV. Past Cars: '72 Triumph TR6 (supercharged), '70 MG Midget (K-Series + Type 9), '76 Triumph 2500TC, '72 Lotus Elan +2S130/4, '76 Triumph Spitfire 1500.
- shynsy
- Second Gear
- Posts: 104
- Joined: 15 Mar 2023
Hi
My cousin runs a metal finishing business (and has done for 40 years) he has blasted and coated several plus 2 chassis for me and is soon to do a Europa one for me. They blast them then paint all seams with Zinga before using a zinc primer and zinc rich powdercoat (I think that is what he said). In any case he assures me that the old chip and rust problem will not happen with this process. The company is Vulcan Shotblasting in Basildon. They also do specialist chemical spray chroming.
He did say that a lot of people wont pay to have it properly. His thing is that once it leaves the factory he does not want it coming back. Does a lot of high end work for Formula 1 and retail. He even painted Madonna's headress for the superbowl performance a few years back as well as stuff for the movie industry.
Having said all that, proper prep followed by a 2k Epoxy primer onto the clean bare metal is a great base, and I would be doing that if he did not do stuff for me. In fact I will be doing it to my Europa seat frames this weekend.
All the best
Berni
My cousin runs a metal finishing business (and has done for 40 years) he has blasted and coated several plus 2 chassis for me and is soon to do a Europa one for me. They blast them then paint all seams with Zinga before using a zinc primer and zinc rich powdercoat (I think that is what he said). In any case he assures me that the old chip and rust problem will not happen with this process. The company is Vulcan Shotblasting in Basildon. They also do specialist chemical spray chroming.
He did say that a lot of people wont pay to have it properly. His thing is that once it leaves the factory he does not want it coming back. Does a lot of high end work for Formula 1 and retail. He even painted Madonna's headress for the superbowl performance a few years back as well as stuff for the movie industry.
Having said all that, proper prep followed by a 2k Epoxy primer onto the clean bare metal is a great base, and I would be doing that if he did not do stuff for me. In fact I will be doing it to my Europa seat frames this weekend.
All the best
Berni
Zetec+ 2 under const, also 130S. And another 130S for complete restoration. Previously Racing green +2s with green tints. Yellow +2 and a couple of others, all missed. Great to be back 04/11/2021 although its all starting to get a bit out of control.
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berni29 - Fourth Gear
- Posts: 822
- Joined: 10 Mar 2004
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