First drive impressions, and the start of the punch list

[steve lyle]

My new-to-me Elan was delivered on Saturday.

This was a total leap of faith. I've been a long time fan of the car (I'm 58), saw the prices going up, and figured I better grab one now. This one looked good, so based on eBay pics, I went for it.

This is a long-term purchase, so I'm not freaked out that it isn't perfect, btw...

It was being transported on a big car trailer that couldn't/wouldn't get into my neighborhood, so I went to the local Walmart parking lot to pick it up. The battery was dead. We jumped it, but when we removed the cables, it died. So I took the battery out, brought it home, put some charge on it, thus was able to drive the car home. Bucking and snorting - the PO nor his mechanic apparently weren't familiar with Strombergs, so thus unaware that you shouldn't have to work the gas pedal to keep it running before it warms up. I.e., the fast idle was totally not engaged.

Once home, it got a bath - it really does = the eBay pics. I put a full charge on the battery. But running it's clear the generator isn't producing any current. But I was able to drive it a bit (after setting the fast idle).

Impressions:

- I can fit in it! Woo hoo. I'd never ever sat in one of these things, much less driven one. Lots more leg room than I need. Pretty tight at the pedals, though.
- An MGB is mammoth compared to this.
- It's a shame you can't tilt the seat forward, there's a bunch of space behind them that's basically unusable.
- As advertised, this thing is quick. The engine's in good shape, it pulls like a freight train almost anywhere in the range.
- Man, is it loud. It's got what looks like a cherry bomb muffler, definitely not a stock Sprint unit. I wonder if that would help?
- Steering is light and quick. Imagine turning, and you're turning, it seems.
- Down side of the steering - there's about 1/2" (12.5 mm) of free play at the rim of the steering wheel. Re-shim the pinion plunger?
- Brakes are fine, my MGB got me used to manual brakes.
- Clutch nice, shifter goes snick-snick, very nice.
- Did I mention this thing is quick?

Now for the to-dos:
- Get the generator off and see if it's a cheap fix. If not, look into an alternator upgrade.
- Deal with the slop in the steering
- The parking brake is totally ineffective, so deal with that
- The horn doesn't work (push on the sw hub, right?
- The front/outside corners of the top look to be missing the correct snaps, I'll post a pic and get advice later
- Sort out the Strombergs. It's still got the crossover pipes, but it looks like the rest of the Federal stuff has been removed. Not sure about the jets/needles/distributor. I'll post some pics on this one, too.
- The outer steering column rotates, including the ignition key and stalks, with very little effort/pressure. Something is amiss...
- Figure out how to get the rear end in the air. I can get a jack and 2x4 under the front crossmember, so I'm good there. But it looks like I need to make up a u-channel out of wood to span the exhaust pipe and lift from the backbone under the diff.

All in all not a bad list. I'll do all the work myself, so I'm just out the parts. And learn the car in the process. This should be fun.

[collins_dan]

Glad to hear you are happy with your purchase. On the steering and horn, they may both be related to the joint, which could have a rubber piece that requires a wire be connected across to carry the horn current. They also decompose, which may be causing your slop The steering column moving may be just an issue of tightening up the clamp right above your knees. Here is a link to a parts manual, look up steering and you will see what I mean for both. http://www.rdent.com/manuals/index.html . As to jacking the rear end, creating a u-channel out of wood or even better steel is the way to go. Good Luck. Dan

[paddy]

But it looks like I need to make up a u-channel out of wood to span the exhaust pipe and lift from the backbone under the diff.

This thread has some ideas on that: lotus-gearbox-f37/diff-removal-and-jackstand-placement-snapped-output-shaft-t22593.html#p138486

[dgym]

Hi Steve,
welcome to the elan world!
I had the same story when I picked up my car of having to charge the battery.

I found that the alternator wasn't even connected to the battery... so my suggestion would be check your wiring before you go to the effort of removing the dynamo.
And If it's not the wiring, there's a couple of good videos on checking a dynamo and voltage regulator in the car on youtube (made by moss motors) .. please excuse me if you already know any of this.

I'm not certain if the sprint has the same steering column as the earlier cars, but if it does, there are bushings in the steering column that you can replace in order to eradicate any movement. And as for the outer column, if you follow it down you will find bolts clamping it from above (edited, just saw Dan wrote this) and below that i'm betting are loose. This can also effect your horn.

in the link posted by Dan, the bushings are no. 7 and 9

the column is mostly triumph spitfire. the new bushings may be rough on the inside and you might want to very lightly sand them with light sand paper.

the seats: do they not swing forward on a sprint?

cheers!
-Jim

[steve lyle]

You guys are losing me with the reference to column bushings wrt the wheel free-play. I'm obviously not clear re: what I'm seeing.

Let me try again.

The column is fine - push up on the wheel, it doesn't go anywhere. Push left or right, it's solidly in place. When you rotate the wheel, however, nothing happens at the tires for the first 1/2" or so of rotation, maybe about 5 degrees.

With the bonnet off, I can see the pinion where it enters the rack. Turn the steering wheel that 1/2", and the pinion moves the same amount of rotation. But the tires don't move.

So I just went out to the garage and put a light on the pinion/rack area. Aha moment - it looks like the 'slop' is in the flex coupling between the shaft and the rack. Which, coincidentally, I can get a better look at when I get the generator out. How convenient. Maybe a bird and a half, or so, with one stone!

Thanks for all the ideas and feedback, I truly appreciate it.

[pharriso]

Dan Collins nailed that! As he says make sure there is a lead across the joint for the horn earth...

[billwill]

On the rack itself, there is an adjuster to press the pinion down harder onto the rack.

i.e the bolt and spring near item 10 in this picture:



However the racks do tend to wear in the centre position, so adjusting it to press too hard may make full lock very stiff or impossible. If so you need a refurbished rack.

[john.p.clegg]

Bill

Trick picture,two item 10's,I take it you mean the top end of item 10...

John

[gjz30075]

So, what car is it? Pics are needed! You mentioned it's a Sprint so be sure to update the Registry.
It's somewhere in Tim's site: http://www.lotuselansprint.com/

Welcome!

[Orsom Weels]

Says 1972 Elan Sprint 0248k in his signature

Welcome Steve, I'm a long time +2 owner but have just recently added a series 4 DHC to the stable, so I can appreciate your excitement.
Regards, Tim

[gjz30075]

Ah, missed that I've got 0243K. Now I remember the car for sale recently.....somewhere, with pics.

[billwill]

Bill

Trick picture,two item 10's,I take it you mean the top end of item 10...

John

Actually, those are both ends of item 10, which is the earthing lead. So I amended my message to say the bolt & spring near item 10.

Blowed if I can remember how you actually adjust that though; there doesn't seem to be a locknut in the drawing. Absolutely ages since I adjusted that; then found it too tight at steering extremes and got myself a refurbished rack (exchange item).

[TroonSprint]

Why not replace the sloppy UJ in the steering column with a proper Hardy-Spicer type UJ? They are available from the usual suppliers and, being all steel, they conduct electricity for the horn to operate. Bonus.

Mike

[Europatc]

Welcome Steve, the MG will feel like a bus compared to the Elan
Enjoy
all the best
Stuart

[collins_dan]

If you are turning the steering wheel and the tires aren't moving, then it is either the steering joint, which has been discussed or the ball joints (#3 on Bill's picture). Those tend to perish as well. Very easy to replace, but the new ones are different lengths then the old ones, so just counting rotations when removing may not be enough. If you do end up replacing them, then you may want to take toe in measurements before removing.
These are very fun cars to drive, and very easy to work on, so both aspects are very enjoyable. Good Luck, Dan