Positive cable length for an S4
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Hi all,
Does anyone know how long the positive battery cable is for a Federal (if it makes a difference) S4? It runs from the rear mounted battery on the left side, goes through the car at the sill, exits at the bulkhead and goes the to the right hand side of the car, along the bulkhead, to the solenoid.
Thanks,
Greg Z
Does anyone know how long the positive battery cable is for a Federal (if it makes a difference) S4? It runs from the rear mounted battery on the left side, goes through the car at the sill, exits at the bulkhead and goes the to the right hand side of the car, along the bulkhead, to the solenoid.
Thanks,
Greg Z
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Hi Greg,
why do you need to know?
Maybe I'm missing the point here but can't you measure your own car, width, length etc.
add a couple of Feet to cover errors, then go & buy the Cable
John
why do you need to know?
Maybe I'm missing the point here but can't you measure your own car, width, length etc.
add a couple of Feet to cover errors, then go & buy the Cable
John
Beware of the Illuminati
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
Editor: On Sunday morning, February 8th 2015, Derek "John" Pelly AKA GrumpyBodger passed away genuinely peacefully at Weston Hospicecare, Weston Super Mare. He will be missed.
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GrUmPyBoDgEr - Coveted Fifth Gear
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My current cable is corroding pretty bad at the battery end and the corrosion is moving right along under the sheathing so I was planning on making my own to replace it, using the oem cable as my length guide. It sounds like I should do as John suggests, and as Rohan did, and simply buy one plenty long enough and go from there.
Thanks guys.
Greg Z
Thanks guys.
Greg Z
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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If you're going to replace it, why not pull out the old one and measure it? Tie or tape a length of lighter gauge wire to the end before pulling it out and you can use it to pull in the new one!
Mechanical Engineer, happily retired!
'67 S3 SE FHC
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'67 S3 SE FHC
See Facebook page: W J Barry Photography
Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
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Galwaylotus - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I thought about that but the oem cable is VERY stiff so I'm not sure I'll be able to pull it through. The new cable I'm sure will be very flexible. I plan on getting some from the welding supply place here.
I'm trying to keep the down time to a minimum. Looks like the lh side of the interior has to come apart to get at the cable: seat out, masonite panel out, rear bulkhead out.
Greg Z
I'm trying to keep the down time to a minimum. Looks like the lh side of the interior has to come apart to get at the cable: seat out, masonite panel out, rear bulkhead out.
Greg Z
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
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gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Greg,
As many others said, there is no way you'll be able to remove the cable by pulling it. There are too many turns and the cable will wedge itself into all of them. You'll have to open up the interior to do it. As long as you are going to tackle this job, I do have a suggestion.
After you've opened up the interior, rather than replacing the cable, why don't you disconnect the cable from the solenoid and work it back until it is near the place where it comes out of the bulkhead? Purchase a battery cut off switch and mount it in the bulkhead near where the cable comes out however as the switch will be mounted in the bulkhead, the shortened cable will be pulled inside the car and attached to the bottom side of the cut off switch which will be inside the car. Purchase a length of cable to attach to the other side of the switch and continue inside the car behind the bulkhead where it will come out near the solenoid. You should have plenty left over at the battery end allowing you to cut off the corroded part and fit it to the battery.
Rather than purchasing a long cable, you've spent your money on a short cable and a useful cut off switch and as a bonus, with the exception of the last few inches of cable at the solenoid, it is completely hidden. Good luck.
As many others said, there is no way you'll be able to remove the cable by pulling it. There are too many turns and the cable will wedge itself into all of them. You'll have to open up the interior to do it. As long as you are going to tackle this job, I do have a suggestion.
After you've opened up the interior, rather than replacing the cable, why don't you disconnect the cable from the solenoid and work it back until it is near the place where it comes out of the bulkhead? Purchase a battery cut off switch and mount it in the bulkhead near where the cable comes out however as the switch will be mounted in the bulkhead, the shortened cable will be pulled inside the car and attached to the bottom side of the cut off switch which will be inside the car. Purchase a length of cable to attach to the other side of the switch and continue inside the car behind the bulkhead where it will come out near the solenoid. You should have plenty left over at the battery end allowing you to cut off the corroded part and fit it to the battery.
Rather than purchasing a long cable, you've spent your money on a short cable and a useful cut off switch and as a bonus, with the exception of the last few inches of cable at the solenoid, it is completely hidden. Good luck.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
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I've known Greg for close to 40 years and I consider him one of the best friends in the world. Even after I broke his clutch cable on the same car in the mid 70's.
Now he does have a quirk or two..................heaven knows I don't. I'm amazed he found the problem even after we tried to get it started after a winter nap and the cable got so HOT while cranking you couldn't touch it. Frank, as for splicing, .........that's not a good idea. If you could see Greg's soldering skills or crimping strength you would understand.
You have to admre Greg, he doesn't want to take the old one out until he is ready to install the new one in one swoop. He loves driving this car!!! And doesn't want it down any longer than necessary. More importantly, ......don't let his name fool you. He has more Scottish Blood in him than almost anyone I know, and he will not be happy if he buys 15 feet and then finds out 14 feet was enough. He still has his first nickle along with the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) battery cable.
Now why has no one asked why he isn't replacing the Negative Cable at the same time? It's just as old and has been in the same envirorment! And while we are on the subject, why did the factory make the Positive Cable Black, the same colour as the Negative Cable? Should not the Positive Cable have been Red? ........Maybe Red cost more? I don't know!
Now he does have a quirk or two..................heaven knows I don't. I'm amazed he found the problem even after we tried to get it started after a winter nap and the cable got so HOT while cranking you couldn't touch it. Frank, as for splicing, .........that's not a good idea. If you could see Greg's soldering skills or crimping strength you would understand.
You have to admre Greg, he doesn't want to take the old one out until he is ready to install the new one in one swoop. He loves driving this car!!! And doesn't want it down any longer than necessary. More importantly, ......don't let his name fool you. He has more Scottish Blood in him than almost anyone I know, and he will not be happy if he buys 15 feet and then finds out 14 feet was enough. He still has his first nickle along with the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) battery cable.
Now why has no one asked why he isn't replacing the Negative Cable at the same time? It's just as old and has been in the same envirorment! And while we are on the subject, why did the factory make the Positive Cable Black, the same colour as the Negative Cable? Should not the Positive Cable have been Red? ........Maybe Red cost more? I don't know!
Famous Frank
67 Elan Coupe
66 Elan S2 SE
65 Elan S2
65 Elan 26R
69 S2 Europa
06 Elise
67 Barracuda
67 Elan Coupe
66 Elan S2 SE
65 Elan S2
65 Elan 26R
69 S2 Europa
06 Elise
67 Barracuda
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Famous Frank - Fourth Gear
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Now that I had a moment to think about it, Greg would probably find a 13 foot cable on "Close Out" that would only cost him half as much. He will most likely purchase that one and when he finds out he is 6 inches short, ....he will revert to Frank Howards method anyway. Oh my, what a mess!!!
Famous Frank
67 Elan Coupe
66 Elan S2 SE
65 Elan S2
65 Elan 26R
69 S2 Europa
06 Elise
67 Barracuda
67 Elan Coupe
66 Elan S2 SE
65 Elan S2
65 Elan 26R
69 S2 Europa
06 Elise
67 Barracuda
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Famous Frank - Fourth Gear
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[quote="Famous Frank"]Frank, as for splicing, .........that's not a good idea.[quote]
Frank, there is no splicing, crimping, or soldering involved. A new short cable complete with the eye bolt ends is purchased from any auto parts store and is attached to the solenoid and one side of the switch. The original eye bolt end of the original cable which was attached to the solenoid is now attached to the other side of the switch. The battery clamp is unbolted from the battery end of the original cable, the cable is shortened to fit, and the battery clamp is clamped on to the end of the now shortened cable.
[quote="Famous Frank"]...why did the factory make the Positive Cable Black, the same colour as the Negative Cable? Should not the Positive Cable have been Red?[quote]
Mine is light blue.
Frank, there is no splicing, crimping, or soldering involved. A new short cable complete with the eye bolt ends is purchased from any auto parts store and is attached to the solenoid and one side of the switch. The original eye bolt end of the original cable which was attached to the solenoid is now attached to the other side of the switch. The battery clamp is unbolted from the battery end of the original cable, the cable is shortened to fit, and the battery clamp is clamped on to the end of the now shortened cable.
[quote="Famous Frank"]...why did the factory make the Positive Cable Black, the same colour as the Negative Cable? Should not the Positive Cable have been Red?[quote]
Mine is light blue.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
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Frank, that is a terrific idea and would look good too, .....i just don't know if Greg would pop for the cost of a switch, especailly knowing his fragality!
Once this is resolved, we can start to give him a hard time about the acne in his paint job!
Light Blue? Was that OEM?
Once this is resolved, we can start to give him a hard time about the acne in his paint job!
Light Blue? Was that OEM?
Famous Frank
67 Elan Coupe
66 Elan S2 SE
65 Elan S2
65 Elan 26R
69 S2 Europa
06 Elise
67 Barracuda
67 Elan Coupe
66 Elan S2 SE
65 Elan S2
65 Elan 26R
69 S2 Europa
06 Elise
67 Barracuda
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Famous Frank - Fourth Gear
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Frank,
I believe the light blue is OEM as i have seen it on other cars as well.
I believe the light blue is OEM as i have seen it on other cars as well.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
- Frank Howard
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Greg,
Just measured the cable I took out of my S4 RHD car & the length is 13 feet. Cable ran the same route as yours so no difference between Fed & Domestic car. I have bought welding cable to replace it #4 Gauge, more flexible than old cable.
Just measured the cable I took out of my S4 RHD car & the length is 13 feet. Cable ran the same route as yours so no difference between Fed & Domestic car. I have bought welding cable to replace it #4 Gauge, more flexible than old cable.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
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