Graphogen Paste

[richard sprint]

It has now been 11 months since I started a complete nut and bolt restoration on my 1972 Lotus Elan Sprint dhc. The speedo shows 24,000 miles and I had assumed this was a once around the block mileage.

However on stripping the engine down it would seem that the mileage is 24k from new as the pistons are still standard.

However it might just as well have been 124k as the car has not been well stored since it last ran 30 years ago! This has resulted in a complete nut and bolt restoration and I mean everything!

Progress so far has amounted to restoration of wheels, brakes, diff, suspension, rack, gearbox (seals only) and refitted to a new Lotus chassis.

The engine was sent to 'Cambridge rebores' and they managed to hone the bores so the original pistons are being refitted with new rings. There are some positions within the bores that remained untouched (by the honing) however they are minimal and not a concern. They fitted one new exhaust valve and carried out an in line boring of the crankshaft, balanced the engine with new clutch plate and diaphram in position.

The core plugs were replaced although the originals were found to be in good shape, the oil galleries were fitted with new covers, the original valves relapped and new valve springs fitted.

I started reassembly today (the jack and crankshaft) and coated the surfaces with Graphogen paste after reading Mike Wilkens book.

This is quite an amazing paste which I believe was a product produced prior to the 2nd world war by technicians working on Junkers engines. The paste will disolve once the oil pump starts to take effect so protecting the vital parts at the all important start up phase.

I paid 14 odd quid for this material from Burtons and when one applies it there is a good feel factor that the engine is well protected from the outset.

Tomorrow the pistons/big ends will be refitted and all feels good.

[alexblack13]

Good work Richard. I had the same situ when I stripped my motor.Std pistons. New ones too! But fitted into worn bores! New rings with over .040" ring gaps. So it needed a rebore. No luck! I managed to sell on the pistons though. I found , like you, that I got away with nothing and everything had to be refurbe'd.

Remember to fill all the oil galleries and the filter/pump with oil also just before start up. An Oil can ('pump type') filled with nice new oil and applied to the oil pressure guage outlet and pumped like blazes. I then turn the motor over untill the pressure comes up (with plugs out) before trying to start it! You can be confident on not doing any damage.

I use a Torco product called, would you believe, engine assembly lub'. It looks like raspberry jam. A liberal coating of the crank journals and a 'scoot' down the oil holes before assembly does work well.

Once again well done. When do you anticipate it running?

Alex B....

[bcmc33]

I use a Torco product called, would you believe, engine assembly lub'. It looks like raspberry jam.

This must be the stuff the working parts of my 'new' QED head is coated in.

There was a thread some time ago that made a big issue of using the correct assembly lubricant, and that wasn't normal engine oil. Does anyone remember this thread?

I found Torco on eBay last night, but never having heard of it, I just saved it to file for reference.

[paddy]

There was a thread some time ago that made a big issue of using the correct assembly lubricant, and that wasn't normal engine oil. Does anyone remember this thread?

Is it this one?

viewtopic.php?t=12680

There are a few other threads in a similar vein, discussing relevance/irrelevance of ZDDP and assembly/run-in lubrication being the probable root cause of follower wear problems. Maybe I missed it, but I didn't see a clear recommendation for a specific assembly lube:

viewtopic.php?p=56179

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=14307&view=next

viewtopic.php?p=57162

Paddy

[alexblack13]

I built lots and lots of Kart race engines to spot on blueprint. All were assembled with the same lube which I bought from the same retailer of the special 2 stroke fully synth racing oils. I bought it in boxes of 10 and still have a little left. Its quite sticky and stays put well. When building the head it went on the valve stems etc and also over the cam bearings and lobes.
I like it and the engines spoke for them selves.

High spec' and reassuringly expensive.

But as I always say. To each their own... We will all have or fave's

I always filled the crank with good oil when building also. Messy but good idea methinks..

Richards' on the ball...

[paddy]

I finally found this thread where Rohan recommends Redline assembly lube.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=14413&view=next

Paddy