Purists Look Away

[gav]

Now that Steve has set me right on the photo front (thanks again) I am going to download a few photos of my non standard engine bay (the changes are reversible) hence the request for purists to look away.

Headline points are Spyder spaceframe chassis with twincam and MT75 set up, Caterham high flow rad at the very front, electric water pump, dual circuit servo (not really worth the effort for the agg involved), dry sump tank through passenger footwell (I know) - otherwise pretty standard.

I was running a Mocal oil cooler/ warmer (runs via cooling system) but I am going to abandon that part because the oil got up to engine temp reasonably fast but never rose above it so was always running too cool. Having now separated the oil system, I think I'll switch to a cooler and oil stat.

The last job is to get the heater to work properly - still on that one.

All the best
Gavin

[soggster]

Looking good....

Some good mods. Have you done anything to the transmission and suspension too?

Andy.

[gav]

Hi Andy

Yes and no - at the end of the day, I wanted a fast road car in which I could do the odd hillclimb and sprint so the MT75 box is standard running through a Spyder propshaft into a sierra diff with CV drive shafts into a Spyder dual wishbone set up.
When I changed chassis, I got the one which accepts the zetec set up but decided to run the twincam with the zetec approach to running gear.
The wheels are 6x13 (tyres are Yoko A032 soft 185 60 13) and it took a big effort to ensure the arches were cleared - they are now fine but I ended up changing a hub for a slightly worn version to push the nearside wheel closer to the centre. I didn't want to change the external appearance at all and was lucky.
I've done one local sprint in the car running in mod prod class. The only reason I was allowed to do this was because I am such a slow driver I didn't affect other' results. If I was in a series, I would need to revert the rear suspension to the strut or run in fully modified with the radicals.
Comments on the overall set up - 1st gear isn't very helpful (I ned to find a better combination) but the over drive is great. I need to run the dampers on a harder setting on sprints - I'll post some photos of the car attacking a hairpin later - it isn't pretty. Other than that, it runs really well and the car is great on the road.
Hope this helps
Gavin

[soggster]

I did sprint and hillclimbs for many years in a Caterham. I found that a tall first gear was a bonus for most tracks. It made the start tricky, but was made up for in the slow corners.

I run the same 032r tyres as you, but mine has 026r type arches on it (I think) so clearance is not a problem. I'm just worried about oil starvation running these tyres, but I've heard that taking the sump pan off is a right PITA, so I'll leave it for winter jobs.

Mine has TTR suspension put on by the previous owner, so I've nothing to compare the car to, but it is very solid and sharp. I don't think it lifts wheels, but its hard to tell from inside.

What air filter setup are you using?

Andy.

[steveww]

Gavin

I had always thought the Caterham radiator would fit, now I know. I may fit one to mine to replace the copper unit. It does not need the extra cooling but they look nice

Is that a strut brace you have fitted?

There is some nice fabrication in there, did you do that yourself?



Andy - If you have a Spyder or TTR sub frame then the cross member unbolts so the sump is easy(ish) to drop out. The regular sub frame can be modified to this arrangement. I run a baffled sump on my S4 and a separate low oil pressure warning light, so far no sign of the light.

[garyeanderson]

Hi Andy

Yes and no - at the end of the day, I wanted a fast road car in which I could do the odd hillclimb and sprint so the MT75 box is standard running through a Spyder propshaft into a sierra diff with CV drive shafts into a Spyder dual wishbone set up.
When I changed chassis, I got the one which accepts the zetec set up but decided to run the twincam with the zetec approach to running gear.
The wheels are 6x13 (tyres are Yoko A032 soft 185 60 13) and it took a big effort to ensure the arches were cleared - they are now fine but I ended up changing a hub for a slightly worn version to push the nearside wheel closer to the centre. I didn't want to change the external appearance at all and was lucky.
I've done one local sprint in the car running in mod prod class. The only reason I was allowed to do this was because I am such a slow driver I didn't affect other' results. If I was in a series, I would need to revert the rear suspension to the strut or run in fully modified with the radicals.
Comments on the overall set up - 1st gear isn't very helpful (I ned to find a better combination) but the over drive is great. I need to run the dampers on a harder setting on sprints - I'll post some photos of the car attacking a hairpin later - it isn't pretty. Other than that, it runs really well and the car is great on the road.
Hope this helps
Gavin

Not sure which rear diff ratio you are running. the stock ones that were offered by Ford for the sierra were 3.92 and 3.62 i believe. While this may be to much of a ratio change KAM diffs offeres a 3.1 for the sierra and might be worth a try. It may shift all ratios up unough to make it useful, then again if you have the 3.92 CW&P it may go a tad to far 26%. If the CW&P is the 3.62 its only a 16.7% .

http://www.kamdiffs.com/sierra_3_1.htm

[Frank Howard]

Gavin,

Really nice car. One of the best I have ever seen. Obviously a lot of attention was paid to even the smallest of details, like the heat shielding near the exhaust. I do have some questions though.

1. I like the way you routed the upper radiator hose to the side of the engine compartment before heading forward to the radiator. Where did you get the thermostat housing? Is is available with the outlet facing different directions?

2. It looks like your Gilmor pulley set up included the original water pump at one point in time. Is there any reason for leaving the Gilmor pulley on the pump?

3. It appears that you are using a K&N air filter right up against the wheel well. Is the wheel well cut out for this or is the engine breathing warm radiator air?

4. Is the radiator sealed so no outside air can get around it and if so, what did you use to seal it?

Thanks again for posting the beautiful pictures.

[gav]

Thanks for your comments, I'm starting to blush.

You'll have gathered by now that I like to tinker and I believe in sharing information. Did I mention that I am using Caterham 4 pot front callipers and vented discs. It stops really well now.

Steve - the Caterham rad is a little tall and not quite wide enough so I ducted the air into it. It is over spec'd but I planned to use it to cool the oil also (which it did well - a little too well).

I haven't fitted a strut brace to this car but I have to the modsports car I am currently rebuilding (a very different story). What you see is some ally box with brackets welded on for oil catch bottle, oil filter housing and filter king. It fixes to the old rad mount brackets.

I'd love to say that I did all the fabrication myself but I'd be lying if I did. I used to have an F4 car and Ken Thorogood of URS (near Snetterton) did some work on it for me. I got him to weld up the brackets for me. His fabrication work is excellent.

Gary
Thanks for the info on the diff. Embarrasingly, I cant remember which ratio I am running so I'll check the paperwork.

Andy and Frank
The air filter set up is Tony Thompsons as is the exhaust box. The airbox is much bigger than standard and has reinforced 100mm tubing linking it to an ITG air filter. The routing was important to avoid hitting the bonnet when it opens. I squeezed it behind the bracket which supports the bonnet hinge point. There was no need to cut out any fibreglass.

Frank
to answer your remaining questions;
1. the thermostat housing comes from Burtons. It is a special casting but it only comes with the outlet exiting in that direction. It also has a boss for a fan switch.
2. Confidence - the electric system works well (although I had to contact Davies Craig to get a mod to drop the temperature range. They were really helpful and I've had no problems since). When the engine was rebuilt, the water pump was changed as a matter of course. I was told that if I don't use the pump, I should rotate it every now and again which I do. They suggested that in case I have an electric pump failure, I should carry the original tooth belt so that I can reconnect the mechanical pump in an emergency. I carry enough bits to re connect it although I hope never to need to do this.
4.I mentioned that the Caterham rad isn't quite wide enough for the air intake - well - I ducted the air into the rad with ally panels. On the spare side, I let the air flow into the engine bay and I have placed the air filter close to that area but not in direct line. I didn't want ram air into the engine but I am pretty sure it does get nice cool air in the filter area.
Cutting and fitting the ally was a really hard job - especially as the dual circuit servo is very close to the side of the rad so I can't get my hand anywhere close. I cheated by cutting the ally too long so that it ran all the way to the front beyond the grp forming the sides of the smiley rad intake moulding (if that makes sense). The rad fits tight top and bottom and the ally brackets are bolted to the ally angle which is welded to the rad. This is the fixing for the normal Caterham and the plate forms part of the rad.

Oh yes, and I rose jointed the handbrake linkages using stainless rod. I had to change the rods to fit around the diff - better but still marginal.

Happy tinkering
Gavin

[garyeanderson]

Thanks for your comments, I'm starting to blush.

You'll have gathered by now that I like to tinker and I believe in sharing information. Did I mention that I am using Caterham 4 pot front callipers and vented discs. It stops really well now.

Gary
Thanks for the info on the diff. Embarrasingly, I cant remember which ratio I am running so I'll check the paperwork.

Happy tinkering
Gavin

Hi Gav

If 1st is utterly usless it is most likely a 3.92, I forget what the mt75 1st ratio is but in an Elan somthing in the 10:1 to 11.7 is appropreate for an overall combined gear in Ist. My gut feeling is the MT75 is in the 3.6 to 3.8 range so combined with the 3.1 it would work just fine. A large motor can get away with more. You have to remember that in the U.S. when a Corvette had a wide box the ratio of 1st gear was 2.52 and the Close box was 2.2, Ford Mustangs of the same vintage the wide box was a 2.78 and close 2.32. Vettes had standart rear axle ratios of 3.08 and 3.36 depending on engine size, Performance Mustangs went with 3.25 or 3.5, drag cars went with 3.9 or 4.11's tires were larger too so like I said its all about the overall ratio. That said a 3.1 with a .83 overdrive is an effective 2.57 which may be useless at the other end. Gearboxs not specificly designed for the application are always a comprimize.

Gary

[RichardS]

The airbox is much bigger than standard and has reinforced 100mm tubing linking it to an ITG air filter. The routing was important to avoid hitting the bonnet when it opens. I squeezed it behind the bracket which supports the bonnet hinge point. There was no need to cut out any fibreglass.

Gavin

I've been thinking about getting the TT airbox set up. My original backplate needs replacing and I would also like to use a modern air filter. The TT kit looks relatively resonably priced.

From your comments it looks straightforward to fit. Any problems?

Richard

[type36lotus]

Gav,

This from a purist, Look away I cannot. Your level of craftsmanship is fantastic. Attention to the little details, like the jubilee clips all having their worm screws lined up is just wonderful. Your work is pure motive art! And you did say the magic word, reversible. Very nice, very nice indeed.

[soggster]

Hello Gav,

I'm interested in your brake setup. It sounds like just the thing I'm looking for. What did you need to change to get the Caterham stuff to work? Adapter plates? Different hubs? Is it just fronts or both?

Cheers for any info

Andy.

[gav]

Hi
I've been away for a wet week camping (!) so back in the real world again:

Andy - I purchased the Caterham Disc and calliper set up and the only mod I had to do was to get the mounting face for the disc adaptor modified slightly to ensure that it located properly.
I got hold of really good engineer who braised some tabs onto the mounting face and then machined them to the correct diameter. It was a very neat job and a very simple solution - but beyond my capabilities - especially with the brakes.
The result is fantastic - the car stops really well and never locks up (but that might be because the dual circuit servo has a slight time delay in operating between the circuits so the front comes on first followed promptly by the rear - standard lotus rear callipers). I suspect that if the front were going to lock, the slightly retarded application of the rear counters this - this is my theory though and could well be quite wrong!

Richard - The TTr airbox was a really easy fit. It is much larger than the standard and the engine breathes well with it. The only fiddly part was shaping the bolt so that I could remove the outer cover easily - this does involve a knack which is easily learned and quick to effect.
I wasn't convinced that the corners sealed well so I use some tape on the outside joint just to make sure. I renew the tape each time I remove the cover.

Mike
Thanks for your kind words. I wish I was trained as an engineer but I wasn't. The solution for me was (and still is) to share information, learn as much as I can and ask questions.
I was always taught to keep installations as neat and simple as possible. Making continued modifications doesn't always allow me to keep things as simple as they should be but I do try to keep things neat and tidy. I just wish that my trimming skills were effective. They are very limited at present - but I continue to learn...

All the best
Gavin